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Replacing cassette - what kind do I need?
I have an old Shimano 600 cassette that I believe needs replacing (advice from forum members). I'd like something silver in color, it needs to be 7 speed, and fit an 80's era Campy Record hub. What do I need? I'm not really sure about the difference between a freewheel and a cassette.
I think this is the hub: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk...campag-hs3.jpg Thanks! |
That there is a freewheel (not cassette) hub: http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
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On a freewheel type hub a 7 speed will most likely require a longer axle if not originally equipped with a 7 cog FW. The longer axle requires more dish and will be more stressed by the longer hub flange to locknut distance.
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It's already set up like this. Shimano 6400, 7 speed, on Campy Record hubs.
Something like this? SunRace a good brand? There isn't much from Shimano that isn't ugly. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1665 |
Judging by the spacers (and my faded memory) this is a 126mm hub set up for a 6 or 7s spin-on freewheel.
The OP shouldn't rely on me here, but measure the axle over the locknuts, and the distance from the RH locknut face to the freewheel shoulder. For 6s o 7s, the shoulder to locknut width will be roughly 32-34mm. For a 5s it'll be closer to 27mm. Note that 7s requires 1-2mm more clearance than 6s (narrower spacing) |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16155792)
Judging by the spacers (and my faded memory) this is a 126mm hub set up for a 6 or 7s spin-on freewheel.
The OP shouldn't rely on me here, but measure the axle over the locknuts, and the distance from the RH locknut face to the freewheel shoulder. For 6s o 7s, the shoulder to locknut width will be roughly 32-34mm. For a 5s it'll be closer to 27mm. Note that 7s requires 1-2mm more clearance than 6s (narrower spacing) Let me know if there are any pics I can take to help sort this out. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...1/rear_hub.jpg |
34mm would be 7 speed, but it seems you already know that (if that's the original in the 2nd photo)
So you need a 7 speed freewheel (not a cassette). Search 7s freewheel and you'll find plenty of choices, both current and vintage production. |
The Shimano ones don't look very classy, but are probably the best quality when it comes to new production.
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You can find awesome NOS SunTour Alpha or very used SunTour Winner 7 speed freewheels on eBay. They're there, all day, every day. Depending on condition, $25 - $300. Every gear combination you can think of. If your rear mech can handle it, you can find 32s and 34s as well for $15-25 apiece.
I bought a cheap used Alpha freewheel (12-30) this past summer for ~$45 that looked sharper than anything Shimano has ever made. |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16155933)
34mm would be 7 speed, but it seems you already know that (if that's the original in the 2nd photo)
How do I know if it's the original? I bought the bike like this. The frame is from the early 80's, and most parts seem to be from the late 80's. I really don't know the vintage of the hubs though. |
The look of a freewheel is about the least important thing possible. Once you install it you forget about it as long as it works.
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It seems to me that the 13-28 Shimano freewheel is the closest you'll be able to get new for your solution. For $20 plus shipping you'll get that wheel back into great shape. No obsessing necessary... ;)
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Originally Posted by Netdewt
(Post 16156111)
The picture is my bike. It's a Shimano 600 piece. I am having troubles with some shifting and others on the forum recommended I get a new HyperGlide one.
How do I know if it's the original? I bought the bike like this. The frame is from the early 80's, and most parts seem to be from the late 80's. I really don't know the vintage of the hubs though. If you're having troubles shifting, I think you should revisit your derailleur adjustments and condition of the cables and housing. The freewheel is not a likely culprit. From the guru: http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7/pages/frwl-shimano.html http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7/images/frwl-shimano.jpg |
I'm so confused....
It has flat teeth like the Shimano 600 ones, so thats what I thought it was. It makes a lot of noise, just in general. Clicking, consistent chain noise. Lately the derailleur has probably come out of adjustment, but it makes a certain amount of noise even right after coming from a tune up. |
Is that a shift ramp on the largest cog at the 12 o' clock position?
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Originally Posted by TommyBing
(Post 16156036)
I bought a cheap used Alpha freewheel (12-30) this past summer for ~$45 that looked sharper than anything Shimano has ever made.
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Originally Posted by HillRider
(Post 16156757)
That's a VERY important part of how a freewheel functions.
But since you don't read posts, let me redo a version especially for you: I bought a cheap used Alpha freewheel (12-30) this past summer for ~$45 that is of far better quality than any current Shimano production. You'd be really pleased with it. |
Mostly I just hate that big black cog on the back side of the Shimanos. Perhaps I should just build some modern wheels.
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
(Post 16156756)
Is that a shift ramp on the largest cog at the 12 o' clock position?
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Originally Posted by Netdewt
(Post 16157168)
There is something there... what would that mean? The shift gates and lock ring are the tip off. |
Originally Posted by Netdewt
(Post 16157168)
Mostly I just hate that big black cog on the back side of the Shimanos. Perhaps I should just build some modern wheels.
There is something there... what would that mean? " It has flat teeth like the Shimano 600 ones, so thats what I thought it was." |
Originally Posted by TommyBing
(Post 16156841)
The OP specifically asked for something that "isn't as ugly as Shimano."
But since you don't read posts, let me redo a version especially for you: I bought a cheap used Alpha freewheel (12-30) this past summer for ~$45 that is of far better quality than any current Shimano production. You'd be really pleased with it. First, I did read the OP's initial and subsequent posts. My reply about the importance of appearance was directed at both you and him. I think it's a pretty trivial consideration. Second, I've owned and used many Sun Tour freewheels including New Winner, Winner Pro and Perfect models. They were well made and worked but were nothing that special and the Shimano freewheels I later used were just as durable and shifted a lot better. |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16157197)
As Jeff pointed out it's a Hyperglide Freewheel (not cassette). These existed for a very short while and ushered in the move to freehubs and cassettes. When Shimano introduced Hyperglide back in the freewheel era, they had to do away with threaded on sprockets, since there was no way to ensure their orientation. So all sprockets including the first slid onto a splined body and were retained with a lockring.
The shift gates and lock ring are the tip off. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1665 If the OP is interested, here's a prettier SunRace: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1665 http://www.universalcycles.com/image...dium/31292.jpg However, given his description of the problem, I still say that the freewheel is probably not the issue. |
Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
(Post 16157959)
However, given his description of the problem, I still say that the freewheel is probably not the issue. |
Originally Posted by Netdewt
(Post 16158216)
You may be right. I believe the people recommending a new freewheel did not think I had Hyperglide in the first place. This old stuff is really confusing.
Oh, I don't know. All you need to do is find an old fart like myself to essplain things to you. |
Try IRD. They make quality freewheels in multiple speeds for older bikes, cost about $50 or so.
http://www.interlocracing.com/freewheels_steel.html |
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