Replacing cassette - what kind do I need?
#1
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Replacing cassette - what kind do I need?
I have an old Shimano 600 cassette that I believe needs replacing (advice from forum members). I'd like something silver in color, it needs to be 7 speed, and fit an 80's era Campy Record hub. What do I need? I'm not really sure about the difference between a freewheel and a cassette.
I think this is the hub:

Thanks!
I think this is the hub:

Thanks!
#2
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Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
That there is a freewheel (not cassette) hub: https://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
#3
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Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
On a freewheel type hub a 7 speed will most likely require a longer axle if not originally equipped with a 7 cog FW. The longer axle requires more dish and will be more stressed by the longer hub flange to locknut distance.
#4
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It's already set up like this. Shimano 6400, 7 speed, on Campy Record hubs.
Something like this? SunRace a good brand? There isn't much from Shimano that isn't ugly.
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1665
Something like this? SunRace a good brand? There isn't much from Shimano that isn't ugly.
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1665
#5
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Judging by the spacers (and my faded memory) this is a 126mm hub set up for a 6 or 7s spin-on freewheel.
The OP shouldn't rely on me here, but measure the axle over the locknuts, and the distance from the RH locknut face to the freewheel shoulder. For 6s o 7s, the shoulder to locknut width will be roughly 32-34mm. For a 5s it'll be closer to 27mm. Note that 7s requires 1-2mm more clearance than 6s (narrower spacing)
The OP shouldn't rely on me here, but measure the axle over the locknuts, and the distance from the RH locknut face to the freewheel shoulder. For 6s o 7s, the shoulder to locknut width will be roughly 32-34mm. For a 5s it'll be closer to 27mm. Note that 7s requires 1-2mm more clearance than 6s (narrower spacing)
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#6
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Judging by the spacers (and my faded memory) this is a 126mm hub set up for a 6 or 7s spin-on freewheel.
The OP shouldn't rely on me here, but measure the axle over the locknuts, and the distance from the RH locknut face to the freewheel shoulder. For 6s o 7s, the shoulder to locknut width will be roughly 32-34mm. For a 5s it'll be closer to 27mm. Note that 7s requires 1-2mm more clearance than 6s (narrower spacing)
The OP shouldn't rely on me here, but measure the axle over the locknuts, and the distance from the RH locknut face to the freewheel shoulder. For 6s o 7s, the shoulder to locknut width will be roughly 32-34mm. For a 5s it'll be closer to 27mm. Note that 7s requires 1-2mm more clearance than 6s (narrower spacing)
Let me know if there are any pics I can take to help sort this out.
#7
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34mm would be 7 speed, but it seems you already know that (if that's the original in the 2nd photo)
So you need a 7 speed freewheel (not a cassette). Search 7s freewheel and you'll find plenty of choices, both current and vintage production.
So you need a 7 speed freewheel (not a cassette). Search 7s freewheel and you'll find plenty of choices, both current and vintage production.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
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The Shimano ones don't look very classy, but are probably the best quality when it comes to new production.
#9
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You can find awesome NOS SunTour Alpha or very used SunTour Winner 7 speed freewheels on eBay. They're there, all day, every day. Depending on condition, $25 - $300. Every gear combination you can think of. If your rear mech can handle it, you can find 32s and 34s as well for $15-25 apiece.
I bought a cheap used Alpha freewheel (12-30) this past summer for ~$45 that looked sharper than anything Shimano has ever made.
I bought a cheap used Alpha freewheel (12-30) this past summer for ~$45 that looked sharper than anything Shimano has ever made.
#10
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How do I know if it's the original? I bought the bike like this. The frame is from the early 80's, and most parts seem to be from the late 80's. I really don't know the vintage of the hubs though.
#11
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The look of a freewheel is about the least important thing possible. Once you install it you forget about it as long as it works.
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 10-12-13 at 11:15 PM.
#12
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It seems to me that the 13-28 Shimano freewheel is the closest you'll be able to get new for your solution. For $20 plus shipping you'll get that wheel back into great shape. No obsessing necessary...
#13
The picture is my bike. It's a Shimano 600 piece. I am having troubles with some shifting and others on the forum recommended I get a new HyperGlide one.
How do I know if it's the original? I bought the bike like this. The frame is from the early 80's, and most parts seem to be from the late 80's. I really don't know the vintage of the hubs though.
How do I know if it's the original? I bought the bike like this. The frame is from the early 80's, and most parts seem to be from the late 80's. I really don't know the vintage of the hubs though.
If you're having troubles shifting, I think you should revisit your derailleur adjustments and condition of the cables and housing. The freewheel is not a likely culprit.
From the guru:
https://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7/pages/frwl-shimano.html
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#14
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I'm so confused....
It has flat teeth like the Shimano 600 ones, so thats what I thought it was.
It makes a lot of noise, just in general. Clicking, consistent chain noise. Lately the derailleur has probably come out of adjustment, but it makes a certain amount of noise even right after coming from a tune up.
It has flat teeth like the Shimano 600 ones, so thats what I thought it was.
It makes a lot of noise, just in general. Clicking, consistent chain noise. Lately the derailleur has probably come out of adjustment, but it makes a certain amount of noise even right after coming from a tune up.
#16
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#17
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The OP specifically asked for something that "isn't as ugly as Shimano."
But since you don't read posts, let me redo a version especially for you:
I bought a cheap used Alpha freewheel (12-30) this past summer for ~$45 that is of far better quality than any current Shimano production. You'd be really pleased with it.
But since you don't read posts, let me redo a version especially for you:
I bought a cheap used Alpha freewheel (12-30) this past summer for ~$45 that is of far better quality than any current Shimano production. You'd be really pleased with it.
#18
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Mostly I just hate that big black cog on the back side of the Shimanos. Perhaps I should just build some modern wheels.
There is something there... what would that mean?
There is something there... what would that mean?
Last edited by Netdewt; 10-13-13 at 11:38 AM.
#19
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
As Jeff pointed out it's a Hyperglide Freewheel (not cassette). These existed for a very short while and ushered in the move to freehubs and cassettes. When Shimano introduced Hyperglide back in the freewheel era, they had to do away with threaded on sprockets, since there was no way to ensure their orientation. So all sprockets including the first slid onto a splined body and were retained with a lockring.
The shift gates and lock ring are the tip off.
The shift gates and lock ring are the tip off.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#20
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#21
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Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
The OP specifically asked for something that "isn't as ugly as Shimano."
But since you don't read posts, let me redo a version especially for you:
I bought a cheap used Alpha freewheel (12-30) this past summer for ~$45 that is of far better quality than any current Shimano production. You'd be really pleased with it.
But since you don't read posts, let me redo a version especially for you:
I bought a cheap used Alpha freewheel (12-30) this past summer for ~$45 that is of far better quality than any current Shimano production. You'd be really pleased with it.
First, I did read the OP's initial and subsequent posts. My reply about the importance of appearance was directed at both you and him. I think it's a pretty trivial consideration.
Second, I've owned and used many Sun Tour freewheels including New Winner, Winner Pro and Perfect models. They were well made and worked but were nothing that special and the Shimano freewheels I later used were just as durable and shifted a lot better.
#22
As Jeff pointed out it's a Hyperglide Freewheel (not cassette). These existed for a very short while and ushered in the move to freehubs and cassettes. When Shimano introduced Hyperglide back in the freewheel era, they had to do away with threaded on sprockets, since there was no way to ensure their orientation. So all sprockets including the first slid onto a splined body and were retained with a lockring.
The shift gates and lock ring are the tip off.
The shift gates and lock ring are the tip off.
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1665
If the OP is interested, here's a prettier SunRace:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1665

However, given his description of the problem, I still say that the freewheel is probably not the issue.
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#23
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#24
Oh, I don't know. All you need to do is find an old fart like myself to essplain things to you.
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#25
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Try IRD. They make quality freewheels in multiple speeds for older bikes, cost about $50 or so.
https://www.interlocracing.com/freewheels_steel.html
https://www.interlocracing.com/freewheels_steel.html







