I'm converting my bike from 6 speed to 9 speed. As I see I have two options. I can either buy a wheelset or modify my current wheels to accept a 9 speed freewheel. Obviously reusing wheels is cheaper, but I want to make sure the setup will be adequately strong for my 145 pound frame.The plan is to respace the frame to 135, swap out the quick release for a longer threaded axle, and respace the axle in such a way that will minimize how much dishing will be required. Thoughts? For the record, this is for a early 90s lugged Schwinn Crisscross.

Are you talking about a freewheel hub or a cassette hub?

I respaced an old steel touring bike from 120 mm to 135 mm to convert from a 5 speed freewheel to a modern 8 speed cassette hub a couple years ago. I haven't had a lick of trouble since. But I did have to replace the hub.

I would not use a freewheel with more than 7 cogs. The extra long axle, excessively dished wheel, etc, will cause problems. Get a 9 speed cassette hub and rebuild the wheel.

I'm talking about reusing a freewheel type hub with a 9 speed sunrace freewheel. People make it sound like the world will end if I do so. But with the said mods is it enough or should I avoid it? I've redished several sets of wheels for fixed use but always decreasing dish rather than increasing.

That's the response I was hoping I wouldn't get.lol. I had hoped it was one of those things that is sketchy in theory, but lacks any real problems in practice. I guess it's time to stop being cheap.

IMO the larger the freewheel/the more chance of axil failure. Over 7 is pushing it. A new wheel (hub) I think is called for. Just my opine. Best of luck Do they even make a 9 speed freewheel????

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...I've never used one, so if you don't mind my asking, is the 9 speed freewheel really wider than an olde 7 speed freewheel, or is it some sort of magical cog number increase within the same width by spacing the cogs closer together and using a narrower 9 speed chain. ?

I'd leave it as Is , just change the Chainrings so the Gears I Like are In the most convenient relationship to the shifting pattern ..

Ie Not needing a double shift , of both derailleurs at the same time to go to next gear in sequence .

speeds is just a cog count of how many are packed in the space.

to go from 7 a 126 wide frame to 8 took spreading the rear stays.. as the 8th cog made the cluster wider..

at 8 the freewheel hub axles tend to bend more, then a cassette free hub wheel will be more durable.

I'm not too familiar with the Crisscross model. Are you planning to use a road or MTB wheelset? 8-9-10-speed road hubs are 130mm. 135mm is MTB standard.

I agree with others that 9-speed freewheel is asking for a bent/broken axle. Go with a either a new rear wheel, or buy a new rear hub and re-build the wheel. If the hub dimensions are similar, you'll probably be able to re-use the spokes if you are trying to save money. This is a good simple walkthrough: Wheelbuilding. If you need to buy hub/spokes and pay a shop to rebuild the wheel, it's more cost-effective to simply search out a new (or used) wheel that suits your needs.

the reason so many recommend a 9 speed freehub over a 9 speed freewheel is because on the freewheel hub the cones are much closer together than they are on a freehub and that closeness means that there is a pretty long length of unsuported axle on the freewheel hub. That's what causes the bending/breaking of the axle. You're almost guarranted to bend/break a 9 speed freewheel hub axle. the freehub axle is very much stronger.

If you do spread your dropouts to 135mm be sure to get them realligned so that you don't break one in use.

Cheers

There's a high possibility/probability of bent or broken axles with 130mm wide freewheel hubs because the drive side bearings are located inside the hubs leaving at least 40mm of unsupported overhanging axle.

The drive side bearings on a 130mm wide freehub for cassettes are located much further out on the axle resulting in much less unsuported overhang.




verktyg

Chas.

Not good for Middle Earth.