Chain Tool
#1
Chain Tool
I just broke my Park CT-5 chain tool after 5 years of use. It worked fine, but it's kind of hard on the fingers. What do you recommend with a larger handle for under $50. It's for home use, but I like good tools.
#6
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Since I no longer close chains (use connector links 100% of the time), I made my own easy on the hands chain tool.
I took an old pair of crappy pump pliers (Channellock copy). Drilled a hole through one jaw close to the pivot and partly through the opposite jaw. I then forced a bearing ball into the shallow hole, so it sticks out a bit.
I cut chains by suing the ball to crack both pins in the outer plate, forcing the pins sub-flush with a single squeeze. Then the rest of the link comes off the opposite side. Been using it for years. It's fast, easy, and no pins to break.
I took an old pair of crappy pump pliers (Channellock copy). Drilled a hole through one jaw close to the pivot and partly through the opposite jaw. I then forced a bearing ball into the shallow hole, so it sticks out a bit.
I cut chains by suing the ball to crack both pins in the outer plate, forcing the pins sub-flush with a single squeeze. Then the rest of the link comes off the opposite side. Been using it for years. It's fast, easy, and no pins to break.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
As above, the Park CT-3.2 is a fine choice or their nearly universal CT-6.3 which works on 5 to 11-speed chains also peens Campy 11-speed chains.
Also, as above, Park has a very good warranty policy and may replace your CT-5 at no cost.
Also, as above, Park has a very good warranty policy and may replace your CT-5 at no cost.
#9
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
I've looked at Park. I just thought there might be another brand worth considering.
Took A ct5 on a few bike tours , its almost unused ..
Still have the cyclo chain tool I got 40 years ago ..
pople break the upper fingers off chain tools by not knowing their function
is just to de-compress tight links .
and make their error pushing the pin out, there, and applying force with no backing..
If you want a new one , just looking at the website, the revised 6.3 now includes the ability to Peen
the pin to, hopefully, restore some of the pin to plate fitting, the peening of the chain making machine
does in the factory ..
putting a dent in the end of the pin, to expand the end so as to tighten up the fit in the stretched hole
created by pressing out the pin in the 1st place..
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-24-13 at 09:45 AM.
#11
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 9,438
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From: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
The punch pin can be replaced on your CT 5 if that's what broke. My LBS usually has some extras.
Whatever you use needs to be compatible with the chain, particularly with 10 and 11-speed chains.
Whatever you use needs to be compatible with the chain, particularly with 10 and 11-speed chains.
Last edited by Al1943; 10-23-13 at 12:10 PM.
#13
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Easy, I don't use Campy or Shimano 10s chains, Both are too pricey.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
#17
It was a KMC X chain with mushroom headed pins that broke my tool. I won't buy one of those again.
#18
#20
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
I use KMC on my Centaur 10 speed drivetrain
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Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
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#21
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,075
Likes: 0
Since I no longer close chains (use connector links 100% of the time), I made my own easy on the hands chain tool.
I took an old pair of crappy pump pliers (Channellock copy). Drilled a hole through one jaw close to the pivot and partly through the opposite jaw. I then forced a bearing ball into the shallow hole, so it sticks out a bit.
I cut chains by suing the ball to crack both pins in the outer plate, forcing the pins sub-flush with a single squeeze. Then the rest of the link comes off the opposite side. Been using it for years. It's fast, easy, and no pins to break.
I took an old pair of crappy pump pliers (Channellock copy). Drilled a hole through one jaw close to the pivot and partly through the opposite jaw. I then forced a bearing ball into the shallow hole, so it sticks out a bit.
I cut chains by suing the ball to crack both pins in the outer plate, forcing the pins sub-flush with a single squeeze. Then the rest of the link comes off the opposite side. Been using it for years. It's fast, easy, and no pins to break.
#24
#25
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I don't have a basis for quality comparison, but IRD (and maybe others) market nice looking Campagnolo analogs.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.






