How the heck do I get this thing off? Sekine crankset
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How the heck do I get this thing off? Sekine crankset
Hello,
I am going to take this bottom bracket apart. Trouble I'm not really sure how to get in there... I've done this a handful of times before but this particular Sekine (former) 10-speed has a bit of a different set-up than what I am used to. Typically I would just remove the center cap, unscrew the nut with a ratchet, then use a crank-puller... but this one looks weird. I have attached a picture. Can anyone help me?
I am going to take this bottom bracket apart. Trouble I'm not really sure how to get in there... I've done this a handful of times before but this particular Sekine (former) 10-speed has a bit of a different set-up than what I am used to. Typically I would just remove the center cap, unscrew the nut with a ratchet, then use a crank-puller... but this one looks weird. I have attached a picture. Can anyone help me?
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those are cottered cranks.
obsolete, don't bother servicing that bottom bracket, just replace it and crankset with modern ones
removal is likely going to be destructive to the cotter pins anyway
obsolete, don't bother servicing that bottom bracket, just replace it and crankset with modern ones
removal is likely going to be destructive to the cotter pins anyway
#3
Really Old Senior Member
I've removed them using a 4" machinist "C" clamp. (finer threads than a "wood workers clamp)
Apply penetrating oil frequently for a day or 2.
Back off the nut 2-3 threads.
Use a small socket or similar for a receiver on the "nub" end. (I've used a 10mm rear axle spacer)
Apply C clamp with fixed end on the nut.
Apply penetrating oil frequently for a day or 2.
Back off the nut 2-3 threads.
Use a small socket or similar for a receiver on the "nub" end. (I've used a 10mm rear axle spacer)
Apply C clamp with fixed end on the nut.
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Look here, jammysosa, for instructions on how to remove the crank. And, yes, you should replace it with something easier to work on.
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#5
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That's an odd statement. Perhaps you meant "old tech". Much like 8 speed STI (which contrary to popular belief, is not obsolete either).
Unless you meant something other than this definition of obsolete: no longer produced or used.
Unless you meant something other than this definition of obsolete: no longer produced or used.
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And just as the cottered crank had its difficulties that the square taper solved, newer technologies solve problems that the square taper have. If a square taper crank becomes loose, it is a ruined square taper crank. You can also over tighten a square taper and crack it. That doesn't happen with ISIS which replaced square taper or with external bottom bracket cranks which replaced ISIS. A loose arm on either of those doesn't necessarily ruin the crank and both are a bit easier to tighten in the field than a square taper.
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Otherwise they are many generations out of date and there are several lighter, easier to work on and easier to find parts for designs now available. Square taper cranks and bottom brackets are far more available and certainly lighter than any cottered crank and even newer designs like Octalink/ISIS (already out of date) and external bearing cranks have overcome the minor disadvantages of square taper.
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How the heck do I get this thing off? Sekine crankset
Thanks! I'd like this to cost 0 dollars since the main goal here is to learn. I'm going to try and be careful in breaking it all down - cleaning, greasing, and then putting it all back together. I'm pretty new to this stuff with a tiny budget and all I have to work on is old Sekine and Raleigh 10/12 speeds which were given to me or picked up from kijiji for next to nothing.
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Thanks! I'd like this to cost 0 dollars since the main goal here is to learn. I'm going to try and be careful in breaking it all down - cleaning, greasing, and then putting it all back together. I'm pretty new to this stuff with a tiny budget and all I have to work on is old Sekine and Raleigh 10/12 speeds which were given to me or picked up from kijiji for next to nothing.
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Thanks! I'd like this to cost 0 dollars since the main goal here is to learn. I'm going to try and be careful in breaking it all down - cleaning, greasing, and then putting it all back together. I'm pretty new to this stuff with a tiny budget and all I have to work on is old Sekine and Raleigh 10/12 speeds which were given to me or picked up from kijiji for next to nothing.
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Stuart Black
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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Thanks! I'd like this to cost 0 dollars since the main goal here is to learn. I'm going to try and be careful in breaking it all down - cleaning, greasing, and then putting it all back together. I'm pretty new to this stuff with a tiny budget and all I have to work on is old Sekine and Raleigh 10/12 speeds which were given to me or picked up from kijiji for next to nothing.
#13
Mechanic/Tourist
I agree. A bottom bracket overhaul is not something done that often (in fact with cartridge BB's so popular it's even more rare) so if it's working smoothly don't bother. Overhaul a hub, which is far easier and done far more often.
#14
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Obsolete has more meanings than no longer produced. It can also mean a part that is not longer current or a part that has been displaced by newer technology. Let's face it, square taper was the next generation after cottered cranksets. As it replaced cottered cranks, it has been replaced by other technologies.
And just as the cottered crank had its difficulties that the square taper solved, newer technologies solve problems that the square taper have. If a square taper crank becomes loose, it is a ruined square taper crank. You can also over tighten a square taper and crack it. That doesn't happen with ISIS which replaced square taper or with external bottom bracket cranks which replaced ISIS. A loose arm on either of those doesn't necessarily ruin the crank and both are a bit easier to tighten in the field than a square taper.
I don't really feel like getting into a debate about the merits of each system. I know they each have their advantages and disadvantages. None of my commonly used bikes have square taper cranks either. But, to say square taper is obsolete is ignoring a huge portion of the bike industry and downplaying all the disadvantages of the new tech that has replaced it.
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You will probably need a new pin for both sides. Driving them out usually buggers the threads. The pin should cost around $5 like this one. Finding them in a shop could be difficult because the technology is so old and out of date.
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Sometimes the threaded shaft is damaged when driving the pin out, particularly if you don't use a proper cotter press for the job. Again, replacement is in order. Fortunately, cotters are inexpensive and ought only set you back a couple bucks for the pair.
Bon chance!
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ISIS and Octalink rely on a tight fit between the splines and arm, much like the tapered fit on a square taper crank (though because it's tapered, it is more tolerant of size variation, at the expense of crank position variation). I guarantee if you ran an ISIS or Octalink arm with a loose crank bolt, you'd ruin it in short order. ISIS and Octalink both require 8mm hex bits to tighten and need 30+ ft. lbs. of torque on those fasteners so they aren't all that easily tightened in the field (no more so than square taper). Integrated spindle cranks have an advantage in that the arms can be R&R'd with a multitool but again, leave those mounting bolts loose, and you'll quickly damage the arm.
As for integrated spindle cranks, it would be very difficult to damage an arm due to it being loose. Looking at just the Shimano crank, you might cause superficial damage to the shallow splines on the arm but the arm is clamped in place by pinch bolts. The splines don't serve any function other than alignment. Without them, the clamping mechanism would still work.
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Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#19
Senior Member
Cottered cranks, cotterless square taper, ISIS and, now, external bottom bracket cranks have always been used on "enthusiast" level bikes. The vast majority of cranks on department store bikes have been and continue to be Austabula single piece cranks. Just about every bike I see at the coop I work at that came from a department store has one on it.
I'm seeing all square taper here: https://www.target.com/c/road-bikes-s...c=1118559|null
and here: https://www.target.com/c/mountain-bik...c=1118559|null
ISIS style cranks depend on more than just a tight fit between the crank and the spindle. They have 10 mating surfaces as opposed to the 4 that a square taper has. The fact that the spindle isn't tapered means that the cranks can't squirm up the shaft and loosen as easily as a square taper. Nor can you overtighten them and crack the crank arm because the arm will bottom out before that happens. Yes, you could damage one if it were very loose but it would have to be very loose and you'd notice it long before you'd damage the mating surfaces. A square taper only needs to be a little loose for the crank arm to oval out. By the time you notice the arm moving on the spindle, it's too late.
Square taper still has a bearing advantage in either size or protection from the elements depending on which system you compare to.
As for integrated spindle cranks, it would be very difficult to damage an arm due to it being loose. Looking at just the Shimano crank, you might cause superficial damage to the shallow splines on the arm but the arm is clamped in place by pinch bolts. The splines don't serve any function other than alignment. Without them, the clamping mechanism would still work.
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Time consuming? Cotter pins are best installed and removed with a hammer. They're the fastest of any cranks to remove, except maybe two piece cranks with self extractors. Always plan to replace Cotter pins on reinstallation of the cranks.
- joel
- joel
#22
Jack of all trades
I've always done this to remove cotters:
-unscrew the bolt
-spray a little PB "Blaster" on the pin
-tap the pin with a small hammer, at different angles, loosens it up
-after a few minutes, use a punch/drift with smaller diameter than the pin (reduces the chance of buggering the threads)
-if that doesn't work, re-apply the PB, tap it harder, whale away on the punch harder
YMMV, no guaranties that this will work. If it doesn't, you can always cut the spindle(s) off and replace with another crank spindle.
-unscrew the bolt
-spray a little PB "Blaster" on the pin
-tap the pin with a small hammer, at different angles, loosens it up
-after a few minutes, use a punch/drift with smaller diameter than the pin (reduces the chance of buggering the threads)
-if that doesn't work, re-apply the PB, tap it harder, whale away on the punch harder
YMMV, no guaranties that this will work. If it doesn't, you can always cut the spindle(s) off and replace with another crank spindle.
#23
Mechanic/Tourist
The only way you will end up with anywhere near zero dollar cost is if the cotters can be reused and there is no pitting or uneven wear on the spindle or cups, or if you put things back together the same even though they are worn. So you would gain essentially nothing in reliability, and as I noted previously, not a lot in practical experience - so you will have much more than zero time cost.
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I'm not suggesting that you should spend $50 on a press to fix your bike. It would be foolish to spend that much to service one bike, although I did. I just wanted to point out that a hammer is not the best method. You can try the hammer method (Sheldon Brown has good instructions) or you can find a shop that has a press and will do the job for a reasonable price. It's a quick and easy job with the right tools. Older shops will have a press. My local shop does.