plastic cable guide attachment problems
12-20-13 | 06:07 PM
#1
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plastic cable guide attachment problems
I had to break off the plastic insert that attached my plastic cable guide to the frame. The insert was too long and interfered with the sealed bottom bracket unit I installed. So now I have a plastic cable guide attachment with no means to attach it to the frame. I'm thinking of trying the following potential solutions:
(1) find the right length plastic ribbed anchor. This is my preferred solution assuming I can find an anchor that fits properly.
(2) glue the plastic cable guide to the frame. I'm OK with doing this but I have no idea what kind of glue will work with a plastic cable guide and a steel frame.
The cable guide is for a bike with a u-brake so I need to reuse this as it has cable guides for the derailleurs and the rear brake.
Another ideas I should try out? What kind of glue might work? Has anyone had any luck using a plastic ribbed anchor in attaching a cable guide to a BB?
(1) find the right length plastic ribbed anchor. This is my preferred solution assuming I can find an anchor that fits properly.
(2) glue the plastic cable guide to the frame. I'm OK with doing this but I have no idea what kind of glue will work with a plastic cable guide and a steel frame.
The cable guide is for a bike with a u-brake so I need to reuse this as it has cable guides for the derailleurs and the rear brake.
Another ideas I should try out? What kind of glue might work? Has anyone had any luck using a plastic ribbed anchor in attaching a cable guide to a BB?
12-20-13 | 07:55 PM
#2
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
3) Get a new guide and remove just enough of the insert (using a file or Dremel tool) to leave a nub which will keep the guide from slipping. The cable tension will keep the guide from moving around. I am assuming that you are referring to the guide which goes under the bottom bracket shell.
You could use rubber cement to attach the present guide; just apply the cement to the guide and press it into place. If you do this instead of putting the cement on both surfaces and letting it dry before placing it, the cement bond will be very easy to remove if you need to but will hold enough to keep things in place..
You could use rubber cement to attach the present guide; just apply the cement to the guide and press it into place. If you do this instead of putting the cement on both surfaces and letting it dry before placing it, the cement bond will be very easy to remove if you need to but will hold enough to keep things in place..
12-20-13 | 09:03 PM
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3) Get a new guide and remove just enough of the insert (using a file or Dremel tool) to leave a nub which will keep the guide from slipping. The cable tension will keep the guide from moving around. I am assuming that you are referring to the guide which goes under the bottom bracket shell.
You could use rubber cement to attach the present guide; just apply the cement to the guide and press it into place. If you do this instead of putting the cement on both surfaces and letting it dry before placing it, the cement bond will be very easy to remove if you need to but will hold enough to keep things in place..
You could use rubber cement to attach the present guide; just apply the cement to the guide and press it into place. If you do this instead of putting the cement on both surfaces and letting it dry before placing it, the cement bond will be very easy to remove if you need to but will hold enough to keep things in place..
12-20-13 | 10:01 PM
#5
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There is a hole in the frame. It's the insertion on the guide that is toast. This could work as well; there isn't much room left inside the BB shell with the sealed bottom bracket but this is a good and simple idea; thanks!
12-20-13 | 10:16 PM
#6
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Glue is fine. It doesn't have o be strong since the cables tend to keep it in place. When attaching plastic guide to older frames without a provision for them, I've had good results using double sided tape.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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12-21-13 | 04:22 AM
#7
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From: St Peters, Missouri
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3M Badge and Trim cement. Get it at Auto Zone and the like.
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12-21-13 | 08:07 AM
#10
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Cool, glue sounds good (I don't care what the paint looks like on the BB) and double sided tape sounds good as well. Which type of double sided tape have you used?
12-22-13 | 05:34 AM
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The best solution would have been to just shorten the locating rod(s) that are molded to the back of the guide and not just break them off entirely.....but I guess its too late for that if you still want to use the original guide you have. Silicone glue is better than rubber cement IMO for this purpose, as it will be very strong and weather resistant, but still will be easier to remove than most other glues from your frame if you ever have to, that's why lots of car hobbyist use it to glue brand emblems on their car's bodies.
12-22-13 | 09:03 AM
#13
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The best solution would have been to just shorten the locating rod(s) that are molded to the back of the guide and not just break them off entirely.....but I guess its too late for that if you still want to use the original guide you have. Silicone glue is better than rubber cement IMO for this purpose, as it will be very strong and weather resistant, but still will be easier to remove than most other glues from your frame if you ever have to, that's why lots of car hobbyist use it to glue brand emblems on their car's bodies.
12-22-13 | 12:37 PM
#14
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Bikes: American Breezer mtb, American Classic ti road bike w/SRAM Force and XO, Crotch Rocket, SOMA 69'er w/XX-1 mtb, Handsome Shop Bike w/700c wheels. Bianchi SS 'cross
Geez, just use a short self tapping metal screw from the hardware store...
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