Question about flat spot on tire
#1
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Question about flat spot on tire
Hi all,
I have a flat spot all the way around on my rear tire. I know that it is a natural wear on tire. I'm planning on racing with this tire. My question is, should I keep it or replace it? The flat spot isn't obvious with naked eyes until you feel it with your hand. The width of the spot probably 1/8 - 1/4". No inner layer comes up, still plenty of rubber left. The tire is GP4000s. Mileage: 1000-1500.

Thanks in advance!
I have a flat spot all the way around on my rear tire. I know that it is a natural wear on tire. I'm planning on racing with this tire. My question is, should I keep it or replace it? The flat spot isn't obvious with naked eyes until you feel it with your hand. The width of the spot probably 1/8 - 1/4". No inner layer comes up, still plenty of rubber left. The tire is GP4000s. Mileage: 1000-1500.
Thanks in advance!
#2
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
That's normal wear. The flat spot's width represents the width of the contact patch when you're riding straight. The tire deflects from round to flat where it meets the pavement, and that's how they wear.
The only way to get rid of it is to ride twisty mountain roads on a regular basis. That'll have the bike banked to either side more of the time, and keep the crown round.
Otherwise, stop looking so close, and ride the bike.
The only way to get rid of it is to ride twisty mountain roads on a regular basis. That'll have the bike banked to either side more of the time, and keep the crown round.
Otherwise, stop looking so close, and ride the bike.
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#4
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From: Northern California
Yes, this is normal wear, especially on the rear tire. Some people will let the rubber wear all the way down to the cords before they replace the tire (the rubber is completely worn off in areas). Most people will replace the tire sooner than that. Tire performance does degrade when the rubber gets very thin (less grip, less cushioning, more flat tires), so you need to do your own performance vs money analysis. Some tires have wear indicators (grooves in the rubber that disappear as the rubber wears down) to help you make the decision, but these are really just suggestions. Replacing a tire only takes a few minutes, if you buy the new tire before you need it.
#6
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i run 'em down to the cords (with tire liners) as others have noted. IME, they start to look just like that before the cords start showing. if you remove one and flex it along the wear line, you can tell when it's about done. it will flex real, real, easy. easier than the sidewall in many cases.
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Thanks for the responses. I'm concern with the cornering performance when I'm racing. With that flat spot, I would imagine the transition isn't so much. I maybe thinking too much. But I don't want to take chances as I already crashed badly once (not mechanic issue). I guess riding on Houston's long flat straight roads takes its toll.
#8
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Most economical and sensible solution is to discard the more worn rear tire, move the less worn front to the rear and buy one new tire for the front. That way your steering is dependent upon a new tire and you still get good usage from them both. Assuming of course you want to continue with the same tires. Bike fashion does not allow the mixing of brands and models. 
Robert

Robert
#10
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GP4000s have little holes in the tread in a few places. When these little holes are gone from wear, that means the tire is officially worn out. In practice you can get some more miles out of them.
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#12
Ride till the cords show. In my experience, tires flat no more frequently when worn then when new. My theory is that thick tread rubber traps and holds shards and allows them to work through the cords and tube over many rotations whereas the thin rubber of worn tires is less likely to trap shards in the first place.
Anyway, note my sig.
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#13
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I'm with most of the people here in that I ride my tires till the threads show which means having flat treads for awhile. I wouldn't do that for racing though as the flat spot can cause a little squirminess when rolling into a turn and possibly losing traction in a hard corner. With the likelihood of having a pack of rabid racers behind you any slip or fall can be a disaster. Do yourself and your fellow racers right by using reasonably fresh tires.
Last edited by Crankycrank; 01-30-14 at 07:37 PM.
#14
Back tires start showing a squared off tread after just a few hundred miles. It's due to the extra force applied to the tire by pedaling. But I think that as the squared off part gets wider, it takes a lot longer to get worn down to the cords under the rubber tread. I get at least 3500 miles from my rear GP4000.
I cut an old GP4000 in half to see how much tread was left when the holes were worn off. It's paper thin. So it's still rideable, but it won't be too much longer until the cords show through the rubber tread.
The wear indicators are two pits about an inch apart:
The wear indicators are two pits about an inch apart:
Last edited by rm -rf; 01-30-14 at 03:51 PM.
#15
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Most economical and sensible solution is to discard the more worn rear tire, move the less worn front to the rear and buy one new tire for the front. That way your steering is dependent upon a new tire and you still get good usage from them both. Assuming of course you want to continue with the same tires. Bike fashion does not allow the mixing of brands and models. 
Robert

Robert
#17
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Thanks for the responses. I'm concern with the cornering performance when I'm racing. With that flat spot, I would imagine the transition isn't so much. I maybe thinking too much. But I don't want to take chances as I already crashed badly once (not mechanic issue). I guess riding on Houston's long flat straight roads takes its toll.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#18
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
But he has the tire and should know how it handles. It's not suddenly going to change when he races. I can understand being worried about a failure on a cut tire, but not a so-called handling issue. Tire handling doesn't suddenly or magically change overnight.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#20
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#21
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From: New Rochelle, NY
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If you want to move fronts to the rear as rears as the rear wears, that's OK and might ensure that your tires wear out before UV and ozone age them out. OTOH, many old time and experienced riders never rotate tires, and don't remove them at all once mounted unless it's necessary such as to fix a flat.
Likewise, many use different tires in the front and rear, making rotating impractical.
Whatever woks for you is fine, there's no hard rule or better "correct" way in this regard.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#22
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#23
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I didn't try to make this a big deal. My intention was to get some opinions about it. I've never completely worn a tire out as I'm still fairly a noob especially in racing scene.
Maybe I worried too much. But at the end of the day, safety first. At least in my book.
Maybe I worried too much. But at the end of the day, safety first. At least in my book.
#24
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Nothing wrong with safety first, but there's no safety issue here. OTOH, it's your bike, your money and your decision.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#25
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Back tires start showing a squared off tread after just a few hundred miles. It's due to the extra force applied to the tire by pedaling. But I think that as the squared off part gets wider, it takes a lot longer to get worn down to the cords under the rubber tread. I get at least 3500 miles from my rear GP4000.
I cut an old GP4000 in half to see how much tread was left when the holes were worn off. It's paper thin. So it's still rideable, but it won't be too much longer until the cords show through the rubber tread.
The wear indicators are two pits about an inch apart:

I cut an old GP4000 in half to see how much tread was left when the holes were worn off. It's paper thin. So it's still rideable, but it won't be too much longer until the cords show through the rubber tread.
The wear indicators are two pits about an inch apart:






