...or a water jet cutter.

Water jets, and laser miters have to be 2 of the coolest tools ever!
But, I still don't get the whole foot SS inserts thing. Unless they are formed, like someone mentioned above, I can't imagine that being comfortable. And I'd check either foot, before trying to make "everything the same". But, hey, if it works for you.

I was thinking Motorcycle flat track racing , the left shoe goes on the track, like a ski.

I had to cut off part of a truck bumper to get it off of the tire after a wreck last week. I tried an air driven cut off wheel and I could see that it was going to take a lot of time and a few wheels. I mounted a bi metal blade in my reciprocating saw and it went through it like butter. A jig saw would be even better when cutting curves.

What about trying some stiff shoes, like Keen or some light to medium weight hiking shoes? Both work well for me. Trying to reinvent the wheel? I can't imaging you would want a piece of steel in your shoe, cold and unable to walk in them. They make sport bike shoes where you don't have to take out the piece for clipless attachments.

I used a firm piece of plastic with a pair of track running shoes. Easy to cut with a utility knife.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=363136

I'm putting an insole over them, so I'm not stepping on bare metal. It's only .03 in thick, which is another reason why I chose steel, considering steel would be stiffer than most other products

Is the goal to stiffen up non-cycling shoes while using clipless pedals ?

Or just buy steel inserts:

http://www.healthyfeetstore.com/turf-toe-full-steel-insole.html

yes

I actually have that exact same one, which I'm about to return because it's not the right shape. Also someone else suggested I use carbon instead, and I'm pretty convinced it'll be better than steel.

NO No no - We are not talking about French inserts...

spectastic - This is well worth the effort - I will keep you in mind when I get around to making my own set - Being able to drop supports into a set of regular shoes that will ensure proper foot placement in a rat trap is going to be a real useful item...

What advantage do you think you will get from steel inserts?

no hotfoot after 40 miles.

In my experience, I get hot-foot when the shoes are too tight or narrow. If my foot can move a bit in the shoe and there is room for some ventilation I don't get hot foot.

for me, it's more like after a while, I can actually feel my shoe flexing beneath my feet, and my foot cramps up if I try to pedal hard. the hotfoot probably has more to do with the lack of arch support. But I'm looking to get both of these problems solved with this.

Well if your going to be using tools, keep this in mind:

Tools Explained


DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching
flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the
chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the
freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner
where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere
under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints
and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you
to say, 'Oh sh -- '

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age.

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads Sometimes used in the creation
of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer
intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various
flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the
grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing
race.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground
after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack
handle firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops
to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit
into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of
the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength
of everything you forgot to disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under
lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil
on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out
Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used
to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and
butchering your palms.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays
is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts
adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly
well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic
bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic
parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in
use.

DAMM-IT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage
while yelling 'DAMM-IT' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most
often, the next tool that you will need

LOL, we had a really well equipped wood working hobby shop at one of the bases I worked. Everything you would ever want/need, and some things you'd never think of. Old school professional grade machines and tools(one guy made a whole dinning room set). You needed to do a safety checkout and show basic proficiency, when you first signed up. When we got to the table saw, he pointed to the ceiling (about 16' high), and there was a 4 foot 2x6 sticking out of the sheetrock. Drives the point home.

Most muffler shops these days have plasma cutters......will take 5 minutes to cut out with a plasma cutter.

Plasma cutters remove the need for most cutting tools on metal.In the hands of somebody that knows how to use it,it almost eliminates the need for sanders and grinders.

I have very narrow very flat feet so I have custom D2 shoes with an orthotic. Even with this I still get the foot pain. The podiatrist told me I have neuromas in my feet. I started riding near the end of 1990 and the foot problems began then.
My pedals are shimano SPD mountain bikers.

Dood- that's what cycling shoes are for! Unless you cinch down your toeclip straps so your foot can't move like the old racers did, a pair of cycling shoes and pedals will do wonders for comfort, stiffness and power. I won't ride without them- if I ride in sneakers my foot feels like it's being chopped in half by the pedal and I lose what feels like about 20% of my power.

Sorry, I used to be a sheet metal worker for many years. No way you can cut .06" stainless, thats about 16 gauge (approx 1/16" in thick) (they actually measure thickness in guage) with tin snips.

Stupid question but for that application, why not alum? Much easier to work with.