cutting a sheet of stainless steel
 

I'm trying to get a piece of stainless steel sheet cut into the shape of my shoe, so that I can put it into my shoes, put arch support insoles over them, and ride. Any ideas how I can get this done in a fast, cost effective manner?

Fast- have a machine shop do it. Cost effective- do it your self with a hack saw and a bench grinder. Andy.

Fast, cheap, good -pick two.

Tin snips, sabre saw or cut off wheel. Stainless can be tough stuff, depending on the thickness.

What i could have mentioned but didn't, deciding to be cute instead, was that when I cut out (from SS tube with a .058" wall) my head badge i used a jeweler's saw. At first i tried to drill a line of 1/8" holes along the edges of the badge, then break off and/or saw through holes to remove the excess. Then i posted here and got learned. The jeweler's saw did in one hour what it had taken 3 or 4 hours before. But for the length of cutting that a foot's outline has... Andy.

how much would a machine shop charge me for a job like this?

I don't have any power tools other than a crappy drill, and there's no friggin way I'm using a hand saw.



Also, I'm assuming they would have a piece of let's say 0.03" sheet metal handy, so that I won't have to order off of Amazon, right?

The best method depends on the thickness, and the tools available to you. For thin sheet metal, up to about 1.5mm, and not hardened, tin snips as close as you can, then finish with a bench grinder or file (more on finishing later).

For thicker material drill, two or three holes in what will become scrap, nail or screw it to a piece of scrap plywood or particle board. Drill a series of holes around the perimeter of your traced outline, then remove from the wood backing and connect the dots with a hacksaw or coping saw.

Once you've cut out the oversized rough shape, you can move to the finishing process. If you have a bench grinder, dress a wheel to an arc, so you can shape inside curves. Set the tool rest as close as possible, and tilt it so the sheet is pointed to the wheel's center. Grind the contour to your line (rest or quench often, stainless gets very hot when grinding). Otherwise you can file to shape using a course half round file. Clamp in a vise so your work area is only out by 1/8" or so to control deflection and vibration. That will allow you to lean into heavy cuts, and work fast.

Another way to finish is with a belt sander. Use the flat area for outside curves and the pulley area for inside curves.

If you're a fast worker, it should take about 1/2 hour per foot.

tin snips on 1.5 mm? that's like two .03" sheets stacked on top of each other. I can do both feet at the same time, just have to screw the two sheets securely together somehow.. and get a tin snip...

I find using a jewelers saw is faster than a lot of things, because there is considerably less cleanup needed, and the cutting action of a saw is more efficient than the cutting action of a file or a grinder. Drills have a very quick cutting action, but leave tons of cleanup which has to be done inefficiently. Of course a mill would probably make things really easy.

Band saw with a steady bath of cutting oil flowing over the cut .. or a water jet cutting machine.. CNC.


How about just buying insoles with a arch support ? Superfeet/Dr Scholls .. the arch support will be Plastics..

I like the jewelers saw idea. It'll make the turns a whole lot easier.

It's almost impossible to use snips on two pieces of sheet metal at the same time. The shearing action will always force one to slide against the other.

It'll go very fast to rough up each one separately. Then you can very quickly file to the exact shape. BTW, when filing thin sheet metal, back it up with some scrap wood, and/or clamp very close to keep from bending it over.

I think superfeet is designed for flatfooted people, I'm the opposite. I've also tried scholls, along with a string of other insoles from the local sports store, but ended up returning them all. Besides, the plastic is only the arch support, not the whole foot bed.

I bet you can do two at the same time with a jewelers saw.

May have difficulties with 2 sheets of 16th inch+ stuff..

If you do ... get the jewelers saw blades by the dozens you will break Many on the project ..

bet? See no money on the table..


got that right ..

bet:
https://www.gamesworld.com.au/wp-con...poly-money.jpg

and the $15 pack I just ordered has 240 blades. I think I'm good. I just want both feet to be exactly the same.

Once you get them sized right you may not need to use inserts - Had a patient worked in a machine shop that did the same thing - Once he got them cut out and sized right he took them to a Farrier with a set of his old worn out boot inserts - The Farrier then pounded into the steel the curves of the soles of his feet better than a high dollar Podiatrist - He ended up with a set of stainless Orthotics for about $10.00 and a six pack of beer - Great price since a set of custom Orthotics usually start at $300.00...

If yo are doing this to prevent your pedals from cutting into the bottom of your shoes you may want to consider inserting a piece of aluminium on top of the pedal on the inside of your rat trap to give it a flatter surface...

I have thought about making a Full Sulcus orthotic (from toes to heel) for riding my bicycle when wearing regular shoes - When I get around to doing this I am probably going to use two layers of Fiberglas casting material formed to the bottom of my feet with my forefoot at an angled position like when riding - Then I'll take the hardened fibreglass form and cut it to size then reinforce it with more fibreglass gel or polyester to make it smooth and sturdy - I'll be sure to post when I get around to it...

But, if you cut two at the same time, then you'll have two left foot-supports. Or two right foot-supports, or....

oh no you're right! if only there were a way to flip one of them around... dang.

I'm just a little nosey, why do you want steel in your shoe?

No, that still wouldn't work, because, then, one foot would be pointing forward, and the other one would be pointing backward....of course, you could hold up a mirror while you're cutting the first one, then the second one would be a mirror-image, and then it would work!

I would find someone with a waterjet.
Both sides can be cut at the same time and end up with a left and a right.

I don't want to use SPD clipless during my long commutes.

now you're confusing me. I don't know what to do anymore...

I just use one of our lasers here at work.