Pedals
#1
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Pedals
My left pedal body (Shimano spd-sl 105) is a bit loose. Not the whole pedal just the body, it sort of wiggles side to side. It's not like I can feel it when I ride but since I have OCD it's driving me nuts!
Is there a way to fix this?
Thanks!
Is there a way to fix this?
Thanks!
#2
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Joined: Mar 2013
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I'm not an expert, but it sounds like the nuts on the end of the body aren't tightened enough.
1). Remove the dust cover (the rubber bit) using a small flat head screwdriver.
2). Loosen the first nut you see
3). Remove the locknut
4). tighten the next nut you see
5). Put everything back
See if that works. You might want to regrease everything while you're there.
1). Remove the dust cover (the rubber bit) using a small flat head screwdriver.
2). Loosen the first nut you see
3). Remove the locknut
4). tighten the next nut you see
5). Put everything back
See if that works. You might want to regrease everything while you're there.
#3
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
IIRC the SL version of the 105 series uses the "axle/bearings/cartridge" unit and does not have a dust cap to remove and be able to access the bearings and do an adjustment. But this unit is actually easier to service then the more traditional dust capped type. At the inside of the pedal body where the axle extends out there should be a notched ring (likely of black plastic). This is the exposed part of the bearing/axle unit that a special (good luck with channel locks instead) tool slips over, engaging the notches, that when rotated in the properly direction will pull out of the body the axle/bearing unit complete. IIRC the RH pedal will have LH threads for this plastic ring and the LH pedal will have RH threading, it often is marked on the ring which way to remove. Once pulled out the end of axle lock nut is very accessible to do the adjustment. Before reassembling dump (I use a small grease gun) some grease into the pedal body's cavity (where the axle/bearing unit was). As the now well adjusted axle/bearing unit is rethreaded into the body the grease that you just placed inside will get squeezed out through the bearings. If you placed enough grease in first there will be a lot oozing out from between the axle and that plastic ring.
This takes about 5 minutes per pedal if you have the right tools and work slow. I do this often on repairs at work. I hold the pedal body lightly in a bench vice. The most difficult aspect is remembering which way to unscrew the plastic ring on what pedal. Andy.
This takes about 5 minutes per pedal if you have the right tools and work slow. I do this often on repairs at work. I hold the pedal body lightly in a bench vice. The most difficult aspect is remembering which way to unscrew the plastic ring on what pedal. Andy.
#4
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,353
Likes: 5,471
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
https://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830696867.pdf
This is a link to Shimano tech docs of one of the various 105 pedals that use the bearing/axle design i tried to describe. Andy.
This is a link to Shimano tech docs of one of the various 105 pedals that use the bearing/axle design i tried to describe. Andy.
#5
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 53
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IIRC the SL version of the 105 series uses the "axle/bearings/cartridge" unit and does not have a dust cap to remove and be able to access the bearings and do an adjustment. But this unit is actually easier to service then the more traditional dust capped type. At the inside of the pedal body where the axle extends out there should be a notched ring (likely of black plastic). This is the exposed part of the bearing/axle unit that a special (good luck with channel locks instead) tool slips over, engaging the notches, that when rotated in the properly direction will pull out of the body the axle/bearing unit complete. IIRC the RH pedal will have LH threads for this plastic ring and the LH pedal will have RH threading, it often is marked on the ring which way to remove. Once pulled out the end of axle lock nut is very accessible to do the adjustment. Before reassembling dump (I use a small grease gun) some grease into the pedal body's cavity (where the axle/bearing unit was). As the now well adjusted axle/bearing unit is rethreaded into the body the grease that you just placed inside will get squeezed out through the bearings. If you placed enough grease in first there will be a lot oozing out from between the axle and that plastic ring.
This takes about 5 minutes per pedal if you have the right tools and work slow. I do this often on repairs at work. I hold the pedal body lightly in a bench vice. The most difficult aspect is remembering which way to unscrew the plastic ring on what pedal. Andy.
This takes about 5 minutes per pedal if you have the right tools and work slow. I do this often on repairs at work. I hold the pedal body lightly in a bench vice. The most difficult aspect is remembering which way to unscrew the plastic ring on what pedal. Andy.
#6
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,660
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The plastic tool will remove the cartridge. Shimano makes a tool to adjust the bearing preload (shimano spd pedal cone adjuster tool pd63), but it is now very expensive. You can still adjust them with small spanners.
#7
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,697
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From: Up
Bikes: Masi, Giant TCR, Eisentraut (retired), Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo, Cannondale, 84 & 93 Stumpjumpers, Waterford, Tern D8, Bianchi, Gunner Roadie, Serotta, Serotta Duette, was gifted a Diamond Back
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830608602.pdf
This is the link to the pedal tech doc. it looks like the inner nut has loosened. This was the problem that I had with a new pedal, I got the tools that is shown in the diagram for about $6 and fixed it. Be careful with the ball bearings they are really tiny and easy to lose.
This is the link to the pedal tech doc. it looks like the inner nut has loosened. This was the problem that I had with a new pedal, I got the tools that is shown in the diagram for about $6 and fixed it. Be careful with the ball bearings they are really tiny and easy to lose.
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