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Freewheel Cog Compatibility?

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Freewheel Cog Compatibility?

Old 04-10-14, 11:10 AM
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jyl
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Freewheel Cog Compatibility?

I am hoping for a quick education on the obsolete and forgotten (except by you guys) art of freewheel cogset swapping.

Assuming you stay in one “speed” (e.g. dealing just with 6 speed freewheels), which brands’ cogs are compatible with which other brands? Can you, for example, put Zeus or Regina cogs on a Campagnolo freewheel body? Will Japanese and European bits co-exist?

Now suppose you have various freewheels and loose cogs from mixed “speeds”. Say a jumble of 6 and 7 speed. Can you put the 7 speed cogs onto the 6 speed bodies?

As a practical matter, would you bother to swap cogs anymore? Or is it usually better to simply buy different freewheels?

Basically, I bought an old bike with a 6 speed straight block, and I’m afraid my legs may not measure up. 42/17 low gear is sounding pretty daunting. I could find a larger cogs and swap out the existing 17T cog. Or I could look for a 6 speed freewheel with more humane gearing. Or I could buy a 7 speed freewheel, as I think (?) they will fit the 126mm spacing. The bike has friction shifting.
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Old 04-10-14, 12:16 PM
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IME- there is VERY limited interchangeability between brands, and even within different generations of the same brand. To my knowledge, no two companies use the same spline pattern for splined sprockets, and while some may (MAY, not do) use the same thread in certain positions, the placement of shoulders, and other factors make the likelihood of correct fit near zero.

I remember that there was some (or complete) interchangeability between Everest and Regina freewheels, and between Atom, Maillard, and Normandy freewheels, but those are cases of different names for freewheels that were made in the same factory.
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Old 04-10-14, 12:43 PM
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the 80s was the death of the freewheel cog board , as the distribution costs were making it hard to pull off any more

I think Sachs Malliard was the last to offer a build by selecting cogs freewheel,

and SRAM threw the Malliard division over the transom when they bought out the Fichtel-Sachs group

Regina used to have LH thread cogs on the back side of the body and RH thread for the rest,


others mixed spline and screw cogs .. usually the plan was exclusivity each brand was incompatible with its competitors.

as FB says A French company may have several brands , an Italian one another ..

Sun tour had th winner and the winner pro and the perfect line ... little interchangeability ..

Last edited by fietsbob; 04-10-14 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 04-10-14, 01:01 PM
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Ah, so "buy a complete freewheel w/ the gearing you want" is the practical route.

Did all 7 speed freewheels use the "Ultra" spacing that allowed them to work in a 126 mm frame? Or was that just a Suntour thing?
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Old 04-10-14, 02:07 PM
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the ultra was a Suntour trade name , but that is essentially what a 7 speed freewheel IS,

a replacement for a standard withh 6 speed in the same frame spread.

just suntour was the 1st one to do that with a 5 speed , at 7 it was done market wide.

the for 8th the same spacing was used , just N+ 1 ..
A 12 screwed into a 13,which screwed into a 14 which screwed onto the body..


Ive got a big bag of suntour NWpro bodies and cogs they were a great design

as the external FW bearings were shielded with labarynth seals .

the way you lubed them was via a hole where it screwed onto the hub , covering it .

a purge and re-lube piece I got my Machinist father to make forced oil thru that hole ..



The lot can be sold , if interested .

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Old 04-10-14, 02:20 PM
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I recently took apart a Shimano 13-28 and a Shimano 14-34. The 14-34 used a spider to mount the 3 biggest cogs, and had 3 steps on the FW body (3 different cog IDs). Therefore, no cogs were transferable between the two freewheels -- made by the same manufacturer!

You will probably have little luck swapping cogs. Just find the freewheel that fits closest. I hated the 24-34 jump on the mega range fw, so now I'm gonna try a DNP 11-32 to see if I like that better.
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Old 04-10-14, 08:52 PM
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I done a fair amount of mixing, but not between manufacturers. I have a couple of 6-speed and a couple of 7-speed Shimano Uniglide freewheels and have moved flat cogs (those with no built in spacer) from one to the other and vice-versa. I also have a 6-speed Suntour Alpha and a 7-speed Suntour Alpha and have moved flat cogs between those.
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Old 04-10-14, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jyl View Post
Ah, so "buy a complete freewheel w/ the gearing you want" is the practical route.
Yessir.
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Old 04-11-14, 11:17 AM
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Sun Race 7 speed Freewheel, 13-15-17-19-21-24-28 Freewheel Complete Freewheel

You should dump the 42t ring for a smaller one for lower gears.
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Old 04-11-14, 11:25 AM
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Ah, so "buy a complete freewheel w/ the gearing you want" is the practical route.
actually, more like accept the individual cog choices as a fixed grouping , and take it as it comes ..
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Old 04-11-14, 05:30 PM
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I cannot, 42 is as small as the crank takes.

In my drawers I found a Suntour 6 speed freewheel! 13-23. It will be an improvement over the 12-17. 42/23 is 49 GI. I can manage with that.

Originally Posted by davidad View Post
Sun Race 7 speed Freewheel, 13-15-17-19-21-24-28 Freewheel Complete Freewheel

You should dump the 42t ring for a smaller one for lower gears.
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Old 04-12-14, 08:58 AM
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Merckx managed the career with the 42:28 as the mountain climbing gear.
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Old 06-07-14, 11:49 PM
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See Billy Cobham's "inne conflicts"

Originally Posted by jyl View Post
I am hoping for a quick education on the obsolete and forgotten (except by you guys) art of freewheel cogset swapping.

Assuming you stay in one “speed” (e.g. dealing just with 6 speed freewheels), which brands’ cogs are compatible with which other brands? Can you, for example, put Zeus or Regina cogs on a Campagnolo freewheel body? Will Japanese and European bits co-exist?

Now suppose you have various freewheels and loose cogs from mixed “speeds”. Say a jumble of 6 and 7 speed. Can you put the 7 speed cogs onto the 6 speed bodies?

As a practical matter, would you bother to swap cogs anymore? Or is it usually better to simply buy different freewheels?

Basically, I bought an old bike with a 6 speed straight block, and I’m afraid my legs may not measure up. 42/17 low gear is sounding pretty daunting. I could find a larger cogs and swap out the existing 17T cog. Or I could look for a 6 speed freewheel with more humane gearing. Or I could buy a 7 speed freewheel, as I think (?) they will fit the 126mm spacing. The bike has friction shifting.
I think Shimano 600 and Dura-Ace freewheels have some interchangeable cogs,
having put a larger cog from one onto a racing version of the other. Regina,
Sachs-Maillard, and Everest (only CX series and Everest-alloy empirically) have
interchangeability. These claims are ignoring the 12 and 14 etc cogs which hold
everything on [ideally]. Two diameters of Maillard and Regina are identical,
although new Maillard has a fourth spline which would have to be ground off to
fit the regina. Regina alloy cogs have twice the splines but the same diameter.
Zeus and Campagnolo freewheels are absolutely incompatible within and without;
they have nonAl bodies like Regina although Campagnolo may use some Ti. This
means you have a long-lasting body and worn-out cogs. I recently saw an early
Maillard course alloy freewheel advert'd with same diameters mentioned and alloy
body, so that if you do a hard sprint at the end the pawls shear off all the
teeth, like an Everest. Freewheel cogs are kind of like printer ink, although
the Sachs-Maillard, which are distinct from Maillard (early) might go cheaper.
Like, if you've got a Regina bx or cx with one worn-out ratio, (assuming bx and
cx are like 600 and D-A, [although the lefty-thread big-cog old units probably
are standadized with contemporary Everests,]) it's worth buying a Sachs cog to
keep it going. And, like, Japanese and European bits can co-exist and even thrive,
but not on the same frame:[ The Sachs freewheels came in an axle-straining
8-speed which now might be cheap. (A French guy currently has a whole chart of
that brand up.) But Regina cogs are pricey, AFAIK. All this is a lot better than
cold-setting your rear triangle, with the companion expense of getting a shop to
align your dropouts so you don't bend your freehub axles. I leave Suntour out of
this because they often have paper-thin spacers supplementing their conventional
ones. If you don't mind destroying the threads they might thread in the small
cog spot on others, DK. Very early on I tried at my LBS on Cape Cod to replace a
worn cog and got something of a hostile response; that "we were a family bike
shop." That guy didn't honor the Specialized hub warranty either. He was with
the program back then. I found this thread trying to figure out just one brand's
code, (the only info seen thus far is the French guy's ad, although charts have
popped up here and there, without measurements, of course.) I'm certainly not
saving this anywhere but the cloud.
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