Stuck quick release road skewer.
#1
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: '11 Merlin Extralight, '98 Dean Castanza, '89 Schwinn Prologue
Stuck quick release road skewer.
EDIT: updated links, sorry.
I have something similar to this skewer:

On these wheels:
https://www.wiggle.com/dt-swiss-r-1700-tricon-wheelset/
It's the type that tightens by cranking the lever clockwise. It doesn't flip open or close like a normal skewer. Terrible design.
The plastic internal ratchet for the front skewer broke (or maybe rounded off), so the lever would just spin freely without loosening. I have no idea how to get my front wheel off my bike now. I don't want to ride it because I'll be stuck if I blow my front tube.
Does anyone have any idea how to remove this skewer? Thanks.
I have something similar to this skewer:
On these wheels:
https://www.wiggle.com/dt-swiss-r-1700-tricon-wheelset/
It's the type that tightens by cranking the lever clockwise. It doesn't flip open or close like a normal skewer. Terrible design.
The plastic internal ratchet for the front skewer broke (or maybe rounded off), so the lever would just spin freely without loosening. I have no idea how to get my front wheel off my bike now. I don't want to ride it because I'll be stuck if I blow my front tube.
Does anyone have any idea how to remove this skewer? Thanks.
Last edited by link0; 04-18-14 at 02:06 PM.
#2
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Easiest bet is to grab the nut end with a good pair of pliers and back it off. It should take a decent amount of torque until it breaks free.
If that fails, take a hacksaw and slice through the nut (and skewer) staying about 1/16" or so outside of the dropout. Once you're through the skewer the nut should pop off, so you don't actually have to saw the nut all the way through.
If that fails, take a hacksaw and slice through the nut (and skewer) staying about 1/16" or so outside of the dropout. Once you're through the skewer the nut should pop off, so you don't actually have to saw the nut all the way through.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
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From: Rochester, NY
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And if Francis's suggestions don't work but you've got a partially cut off nut then try drilling out the skewer (in the center of the nut) or grinding the remains of the nut off. Then get yourself a proper inclosed cam skewer. Andy.
#4
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: '11 Merlin Extralight, '98 Dean Castanza, '89 Schwinn Prologue
Easiest bet is to grab the nut end with a good pair of pliers and back it off. It should take a decent amount of torque until it breaks free.
If that fails, take a hacksaw and slice through the nut (and skewer) staying about 1/16" or so outside of the dropout. Once you're through the skewer the nut should pop off, so you don't actually have to saw the nut all the way through.
If that fails, take a hacksaw and slice through the nut (and skewer) staying about 1/16" or so outside of the dropout. Once you're through the skewer the nut should pop off, so you don't actually have to saw the nut all the way through.
#5
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
The skewer the OP linked to is a "through bolt" type, not a standard qr skewer like we are used to. I don't know if an enclosed cam design is even available in this type.
#6
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: '11 Merlin Extralight, '98 Dean Castanza, '89 Schwinn Prologue
Sorry, I updated the links. It took me a while to find the right one online. It's not the "through bolt" type I incorrectly linked.
#7
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From: NEW YORK, NY - USA
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Are these your skewers? How long have you had them. I have the same type that came
standard on my 2013 Scott CR1 Pro. I kinda like them, no problems in about 6 months
of use.
standard on my 2013 Scott CR1 Pro. I kinda like them, no problems in about 6 months
of use.
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#8
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: '11 Merlin Extralight, '98 Dean Castanza, '89 Schwinn Prologue
#9
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From: Houston, TX
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Still you are describing a non-quick release skewer. You tighten the nut on the bolt all the way and employ no cam action. That is the point.
#10
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Following the logic of the duck test, this would be a quick release.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
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From: Central Ohio
Bikes: One brand-less build-up, and a Connondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra Disc. A nicer bike than I need, but it was a good deal, so... ;-)
You're splitting hairs. I don't know that a quick release system has any specific definition calling for a cam. In any case, this is still a single sided, floating skewer based system, that serves to remove or secure wheels quickly.
Following the logic of the duck test, this would be a quick release.
Following the logic of the duck test, this would be a quick release.
In operation, this is actually much closer to those "theft-proof" devices that can be substituted for a quick-release. The only difference is that it doesn't (normally) require a tool to remove.
Given that this setup is now incapable of being released non-destructively (hence the OP's problem), I would debate the use of the term "quick release" as applied here. :-p
However, chain-yanking aside, it appears that you may be able to unscrew this from the adjusting nut end with a pair of pliers, but you may gouge up the face of the drop-out. If the lever end is plastic, I might be tempted to clamp the lever at the bolt w a pair of vice-grips.
If the picture posted is the actual item, it's a DT Swiss RWS "through-bolt" and is supposed to provide additional clamping force to retain a disc-brake wheel against the braking forces pushing the wheel down out of the drop-outs.
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hansca
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