What spoke lengths for rear M529 hub and 26" Rhyno Lite?
04-23-14, 03:32 AM
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What spoke lengths for rear M529 hub and 26" Rhyno Lite?
First time attempting to build a wheel. I'm getting cold feet and I'm starting to wish I had just ordered one of the bargain basement $60 wheels off eBay.
I already have in possession the Shimano m529 rear hub and the 26" Sun Rhyno Lite 32h is on the way. I've ran the numbers to get the spoke lengths but would feel more comfortable if someone with more experience could run them. Using 3-cross lacing. Do I round up or down if it has a decimal?
I plan on using Sapim Race double butted spokes and nipples.
ERD 548mm for Sun Rhyno Lite 26"
M529 Rear Hub Specs
Non-Drive Side Center To Flange: 33.5mm
Drive Side Center To Flange: 19.5mm
Drive Side Flange Diameter: 61.0mm
Non-Drive Side Flange Diameter: 61.0mm
Thanks!
I've read through some wheel building sites and have watched a few video tutorials but could still use some tips and tricks.
I already have in possession the Shimano m529 rear hub and the 26" Sun Rhyno Lite 32h is on the way. I've ran the numbers to get the spoke lengths but would feel more comfortable if someone with more experience could run them. Using 3-cross lacing. Do I round up or down if it has a decimal?
I plan on using Sapim Race double butted spokes and nipples.
ERD 548mm for Sun Rhyno Lite 26"
M529 Rear Hub Specs
Non-Drive Side Center To Flange: 33.5mm
Drive Side Center To Flange: 19.5mm
Drive Side Flange Diameter: 61.0mm
Non-Drive Side Flange Diameter: 61.0mm
Thanks!
I've read through some wheel building sites and have watched a few video tutorials but could still use some tips and tricks.
04-23-14, 04:07 AM
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You have to measure your wheels, use a calculator and figure out the numbers. Letting someone else tell you spoke lengths could end up with incorrect sizes... Its not hard to do, and there is plenty of info out there. I use spocalc and it works just fine.
I usually round down since spokes will stretch a little, but since spokes ususally come in even # lengths, I round up when it makes sense (like 285.3 would get a 286 spoke most likely).
Just my $0.02
I usually round down since spokes will stretch a little, but since spokes ususally come in even # lengths, I round up when it makes sense (like 285.3 would get a 286 spoke most likely).
Just my $0.02
04-23-14, 04:08 AM
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Would be looking at a spoke caculator like Edd, an easy to use spoke calculator or Spocalc, by Damon Rinard. A free Excel spoke length calculator.
For a first wheel, would be looking at doing a front, as you don;t need to worry about the dishing in the same way as a rear
For a first wheel, would be looking at doing a front, as you don;t need to worry about the dishing in the same way as a rear
04-23-14, 08:30 AM
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I agree with everyone else that you should use a spoke calculator. Spocalc is good for old rims and hubs but it's a bit dated...the database is from around 2008. You can enter your own data in Spocalc and develop your own data base which is nice but it can be a bit tedious. I've also found that Spocalc tends to give longer spoke lengths than I would like.
Prowheelbuilder is a better calculator for newer components. It's a little more user friendly. The Shimano M529 isn't specifically listed but I've found that Shimano doesn't vary their hub sizes from year to year. The M530 that is listed will give you the same dimensions.
Prowheelbuilder is a better calculator for newer components. It's a little more user friendly. The Shimano M529 isn't specifically listed but I've found that Shimano doesn't vary their hub sizes from year to year. The M530 that is listed will give you the same dimensions.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
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Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
04-23-14, 08:35 AM
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Since you have a double wall rim, if you get a bit too long of a spoke, you don't have to worry about a spoke end popping a tube.
I'd get 264 & 265.
You didn't specify spoke hole diameter, but that would only make a 0.1mm difference.
I'd get 264 & 265.
You didn't specify spoke hole diameter, but that would only make a 0.1mm difference.
04-23-14, 06:04 PM
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Wheels By Fleming Bicycle Wheels Documents - mrrabbit.net
Spreadsheet...
Bill Kapaun's numbers jive...
=8-)
Spreadsheet...
Bill Kapaun's numbers jive...
=8-)
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Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
Last edited by mrrabbit; 04-23-14 at 06:09 PM.
04-23-14, 06:53 PM
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I agree with everyone else that you should use a spoke calculator. Spocalc is good for old rims and hubs but it's a bit dated...the database is from around 2008. You can enter your own data in Spocalc and develop your own data base which is nice but it can be a bit tedious. I've also found that Spocalc tends to give longer spoke lengths than I would like.
Prowheelbuilder is a better calculator for newer components. It's a little more user friendly. The Shimano M529 isn't specifically listed but I've found that Shimano doesn't vary their hub sizes from year to year. The M530 that is listed will give you the same dimensions.
Prowheelbuilder is a better calculator for newer components. It's a little more user friendly. The Shimano M529 isn't specifically listed but I've found that Shimano doesn't vary their hub sizes from year to year. The M530 that is listed will give you the same dimensions.
04-23-14, 08:57 PM
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It's physically impossible for DT spokes with 9.5mm of threads to reach more than 1.5mm beyond the top of a 12mm DT nipple which has 8mm of threads. Other brands are similar.
Just measure. Take two spokes of known length, insert in opposite holes, thread the nipples on to your target depth (generally the slot), measure across the elbows with calipers, and add to twice the spoke length. Repeat at several points (rims are often slightly egg-shaped) and average.
Equipment changes, extruder dies wear, sometimes there are design changes.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 04-24-14 at 01:04 AM.
04-23-14, 11:02 PM
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Thanks for all the replies!
I did use a calculator, I was just hoping someone could also run the numbers (maybe in another calc) and verify.
Yep, that's the calculator I used. The M529 is listed and these are the numbers it came up with:
I did use a calculator, I was just hoping someone could also run the numbers (maybe in another calc) and verify.
Prowheelbuilder is a better calculator for newer components. It's a little more user friendly. The Shimano M529 isn't specifically listed but I've found that Shimano doesn't vary their hub sizes from year to year. The M530 that is listed will give you the same dimensions.
04-23-14, 11:06 PM
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04-23-14, 11:34 PM
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04-24-14, 08:29 AM
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Thanks for all the replies!
I did use a calculator, I was just hoping someone could also run the numbers (maybe in another calc) and verify.
I see it now. They could have listed it the way they list the other hubs to avoid confusion but...
Yep, that's the calculator I used. The M529 is listed and these are the numbers it came up with:
I did use a calculator, I was just hoping someone could also run the numbers (maybe in another calc) and verify.
I see it now. They could have listed it the way they list the other hubs to avoid confusion but...
Yep, that's the calculator I used. The M529 is listed and these are the numbers it came up with:
From personal experience, I've never found Spocalc to be that accurate. Their values are always a little off. Actually, the values are usually a little long so that the end of the spoke protrudes from the nipple more than I like.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
04-24-14, 01:03 PM
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i built a 36 spoke wheel with an alfine hub and a rhino lite rim last year
and the only problem i ran into was that there are apparently several rhino lite styles that have been made
and they have slightly different erds listed in the database for the spoke calculator i used
i measured my rim
and it was a couple mm off from all the listed measurements
then i calculated and ordered the spokes
and at full tension the tops of the spokes are as close as i have ever seen to perfectly flush with the top of the nipples
the moral of my story is
measure to be sure
and the only problem i ran into was that there are apparently several rhino lite styles that have been made
and they have slightly different erds listed in the database for the spoke calculator i used
i measured my rim
and it was a couple mm off from all the listed measurements
then i calculated and ordered the spokes
and at full tension the tops of the spokes are as close as i have ever seen to perfectly flush with the top of the nipples
the moral of my story is
measure to be sure
04-24-14, 01:30 PM
#14
Really Old Senior Member
In my experience I've found Spocalc to be excellent.
I round up slightly (up to about .6-7mm) and typically have the spoke end between the screwdriver flat & top of the nipple.
I'd rather be there then below the screwdriver flat to any degree.
I round up slightly (up to about .6-7mm) and typically have the spoke end between the screwdriver flat & top of the nipple.
I'd rather be there then below the screwdriver flat to any degree.
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