Fisher RS-1
06-09-14, 12:33 PM
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Fisher RS-1
I am restoring a Fisher RS-1. I can't seem to find any good pics of how the rear brake is supposed to be cabled. I have attached a pic of how it was when I got it; obviously wrong. My instincts are telling me that the cable enters from the back of the brake and anchors on the caliper and NOT the lever. Does that sound right?? Does anyone have any pics that you could post/take of this brake system??
Thanks in advance!!
Thanks in advance!!
06-09-14, 02:00 PM
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Looking at the photo, with the moving arm, and fixed arm fulcrum (lower aluminum block) This is cabled just about the only way it can be.
I see there's a fulcrum on the chainstay, so possibly a bare wire can be routed to that with a very short housing loop making the tight turn up to the brake.
The tight bend radius from brake to chainstay is the only issue, but I don't see a way around it, except maybe to run the housing in a longer loop down past the chainstay then making a more graceful bend back up to where you'd tie it off 5 inches or so down the stay, so assumes something of a ? turned on it's side shape. (kind of how RD cables are routed)
I see there's a fulcrum on the chainstay, so possibly a bare wire can be routed to that with a very short housing loop making the tight turn up to the brake.
The tight bend radius from brake to chainstay is the only issue, but I don't see a way around it, except maybe to run the housing in a longer loop down past the chainstay then making a more graceful bend back up to where you'd tie it off 5 inches or so down the stay, so assumes something of a ? turned on it's side shape. (kind of how RD cables are routed)
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FB
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
06-09-14, 02:27 PM
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I tried the short housing and it's really, really tight. The housing is about 2 inches and bends 90°. I've decided just to set it up like this and see how it goes.
06-09-14, 02:47 PM
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That's sort of what I had in mind, but what seems strange is that the bend seems to be much more open in the later photos than in the original, even though the basic routing is the same.
In any case, if the ferrule is at an angle where it fits the arm, or the bend is still too sharp, you can always try the longer lazy ? route.
In any case, if the ferrule is at an angle where it fits the arm, or the bend is still too sharp, you can always try the longer lazy ? route.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
06-09-14, 03:23 PM
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For your brake Just run a length of housing from the bottom of the downtube to the caliper, ignoring the stops on the chainstay.
Last edited by Bezalel; 06-09-14 at 03:27 PM.
06-09-14, 04:50 PM
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The first pic was before I had positioned the rear suspension where it needed to be. Notice the rear link is about 45° as opposed to almost upright in the later pics. The rear triangle had collapsed and was actually riding on the caliper.
Having searched for elastomers before (nice old Proflex); I went straight to stiff valve springs as replacements. I haven't really test fired them yet, but they seem good.
Having searched for elastomers before (nice old Proflex); I went straight to stiff valve springs as replacements. I haven't really test fired them yet, but they seem good.
06-09-14, 04:53 PM
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I can probably rig this brake like that, but I'm not sure it's worth the effort to make/buy the bits required.....
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