rear dropout spacing problem
06-19-14 | 02:49 PM
#1
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rear dropout spacing problem
Hi,
The measuring caliper shows just under 132mm for the rear axle dropout on my aluminum road bike frame. And since i at one point squeezed the frame on a 125mm rear hub (never rode it, but had it siting like that for a while before i got to know that it's a big nono for alu frames) i'm not sure if the 132mm is a shrunken 135mm spacing or if it's just a loose 130mm. What do you guys think? is it usual for a 130mm frame to have some "slack" on the dropouts, or do you think it's a bent 135mm?
The measuring caliper shows just under 132mm for the rear axle dropout on my aluminum road bike frame. And since i at one point squeezed the frame on a 125mm rear hub (never rode it, but had it siting like that for a while before i got to know that it's a big nono for alu frames) i'm not sure if the 132mm is a shrunken 135mm spacing or if it's just a loose 130mm. What do you guys think? is it usual for a 130mm frame to have some "slack" on the dropouts, or do you think it's a bent 135mm?
06-19-14 | 03:17 PM
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I see! well, hopefully that's what it is.
About the frame, it's a bit of a strange one. It's a HEAD frame, but i can't seem to find any information about HEAD bikes whatsoever (almost like they don't manufacture them). And i got it for cheap a few years ago from a guy who ran a small bike shop and had i laying around. So all i know is that it's a fairly light race/road (?) frame made in "7005 lite alloy".
About the frame, it's a bit of a strange one. It's a HEAD frame, but i can't seem to find any information about HEAD bikes whatsoever (almost like they don't manufacture them). And i got it for cheap a few years ago from a guy who ran a small bike shop and had i laying around. So all i know is that it's a fairly light race/road (?) frame made in "7005 lite alloy".
06-19-14 | 03:55 PM
#4
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I see! well, hopefully that's what it is.
About the frame, it's a bit of a strange one. It's a HEAD frame, but i can't seem to find any information about HEAD bikes whatsoever (almost like they don't manufacture them). And i got it for cheap a few years ago from a guy who ran a small bike shop and had i laying around. So all i know is that it's a fairly light race/road (?) frame made in "7005 lite alloy".
About the frame, it's a bit of a strange one. It's a HEAD frame, but i can't seem to find any information about HEAD bikes whatsoever (almost like they don't manufacture them). And i got it for cheap a few years ago from a guy who ran a small bike shop and had i laying around. So all i know is that it's a fairly light race/road (?) frame made in "7005 lite alloy".
They're huge in the tennis world, have had some popularity in the ski market but never made much of a dent in the US bike market.
Got pics of bike?
06-19-14 | 04:07 PM
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I don't have any at the computer right now. But i would gladly post some pictures when it's finished. The project is mainly based on the frame that i stumbled on for cheap and a reynolds carbon fiber fork that i got at a 50% sale. And i'm using as many components as i can from an old beat up racer i got for free to use as a donor bike. So it's a "decent bike for a limited budget" type of build.
06-19-14 | 06:24 PM
#7
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
As posted above, odds are it was built that way to split the difference between 130 & 135. Rest assured that simply squeezing it to 126 wouldn't have bent the stays, nor does the amount of time you kept it there matter.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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