When to Overhaul BB
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,030
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From: Canada
Bikes: Maxim, Rocky Mountain, Argon 18, Cervelo S2 Team
When to Overhaul BB
I have a 2011 Rocky Mt Element. Had about 2 years. Lots of miles on it now.
As done about four 100 mile mt bike races on it and other things
BB seems fine. But at what km? mileage etc? or what conditions should i look for as to when Bottom bracket should be repacked etc?
Thanks
As done about four 100 mile mt bike races on it and other things
BB seems fine. But at what km? mileage etc? or what conditions should i look for as to when Bottom bracket should be repacked etc?
Thanks
#2
Take the chain off the chainrings up front so you can get a better idea of how the bottom bracket is spinning.
With your front shifter, shift the chain to the inside of the bike, the smallest chainring. Now create yourself some chain slack -- push forward on the tension pulley of your rear derailer, towards the front of the bike. This pulley wants to spring towards the back of the bike whenever you let go - that's its job, to keep tension in the chain as it moves to different sprocket sizes. Again, gently push it forward so it pivots towards the front, and the chain will droop along the bottom. Now take this chain slack and pull it towards the chainrings up front, drooping the chain on the inside of your smallest front chainring. The chain can rest on the shell of your bike's frame, around the outer part of where the bottom bracket lives.
Let me know if that was confusing and I'll take/find you a photo.
Spin the crank, which should no longer have the chain attached to it. It can spin freely in place. The smoother and longer it spins, the better condition your bottom bracket is it. If you give it a strong spin and it stops after a couple rotations, it's suffering from a lot of friction. Listen for crunchy noises; there shouldn't be any (or many). Try to push your crank arms laterally, towards the center of the bike's midline, or laterally away from the bike. There should be no side-to-side play of the cranks.
Mountain bikes are hard to estimate wear on bearings, because conditions vary so much. You have a high-end bike, so you wouldn't disassemble and regrease the bottom bracket; it's made to be disposed and replaced as a single unit. But you don't need to cross that bridge until you're sure your bottom bracket is toast.
With your front shifter, shift the chain to the inside of the bike, the smallest chainring. Now create yourself some chain slack -- push forward on the tension pulley of your rear derailer, towards the front of the bike. This pulley wants to spring towards the back of the bike whenever you let go - that's its job, to keep tension in the chain as it moves to different sprocket sizes. Again, gently push it forward so it pivots towards the front, and the chain will droop along the bottom. Now take this chain slack and pull it towards the chainrings up front, drooping the chain on the inside of your smallest front chainring. The chain can rest on the shell of your bike's frame, around the outer part of where the bottom bracket lives.
Let me know if that was confusing and I'll take/find you a photo.
Spin the crank, which should no longer have the chain attached to it. It can spin freely in place. The smoother and longer it spins, the better condition your bottom bracket is it. If you give it a strong spin and it stops after a couple rotations, it's suffering from a lot of friction. Listen for crunchy noises; there shouldn't be any (or many). Try to push your crank arms laterally, towards the center of the bike's midline, or laterally away from the bike. There should be no side-to-side play of the cranks.
Mountain bikes are hard to estimate wear on bearings, because conditions vary so much. You have a high-end bike, so you wouldn't disassemble and regrease the bottom bracket; it's made to be disposed and replaced as a single unit. But you don't need to cross that bridge until you're sure your bottom bracket is toast.
#3
Really Old Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,639
Likes: 1,887
From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
Most likely that's a cartridge style BB.
Replace when it starts to make noise etc.
Replace when it starts to make noise etc.
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,471
Likes: 1
From: Gig Harbor, WA
Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker, Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, Dahon Mu P 24 , Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Rodriguez Tandem, Wheeler MTB
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