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Quick Release slipping

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Old 07-05-14 | 08:54 AM
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Quick Release slipping

I have an older Viscount 10 speed and I can't tighten the quick release tight enough to prevent slipping on the drive side. When it slips it pins the wheel against the frame.
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Old 07-05-14 | 09:07 AM
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When a quick release slips, usually the wheel slips forward in the dropouts because that's the direction the chain is pulling.

Forgive me for asking what might be a silly question... How are you tightening the quick release? You're using the lever and not just screwing it down, right? And when using the lever, it should be kinda tough to close; tough enough that the lever would leave an imprint on your palm. If it doesn't, release the lever, screw it in a little tighter, and try again.
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Old 07-05-14 | 09:12 AM
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You show the Nut side . you open the lever on the opposite side, screw the nut tighter,
and then with a considerable effort, fold the lever closed ,

Hard enough to close that it should leave a brief red-mark in the palm of your hand.
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Old 07-05-14 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
You show the Nut side . you open the lever on the opposite side, screw the nut tighter,
and then with a considerable effort, fold the lever closed ,

Hard enough to close that it should leave a brief red-mark in the palm of your hand.
Definitely left a mark and just had a bike mechanic try with no luck.
As soon as you press on the pedal it slips and pins the wheel.
The mechanic mentioned tugs or tensioner but can't seem to find them.
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Old 07-05-14 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by soothsayer68
Definitely left a mark and just had a bike mechanic try with no luck.
As soon as you press on the pedal it slips and pins the wheel.
The mechanic mentioned tugs or tensioner but can't seem to find them.
Tugs or tensioners is not for your bike. All I've seen have required rear-opening dropouts. Doesn't bode well that the mechanic suggested them.
First, check axle protrusion. The axle should end flush, or a little below the outside face of the dropout. It has to for the q/r to be able to clamp down properly.
Next is check locknut and q/r condition. The surfaces that meet the dropout should be nicely serrated. If they aren't, replace. Next, check dropout condition. Scrape off paint from clamping surface.
Oh, I almost forgot. Check that the centering springs on the locknut aren't playing up. Either remove, or check that they're installed pointy end inward.
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Old 07-05-14 | 11:02 AM
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tear the QR apart, that 8mm Acorn nut, and grease the eccentric , so it closes adequately .
or buy a new, say a Shimano, skewer.

find a star washer to create more tooth to dig into the steel of the frame.
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Old 07-05-14 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by dabac
First, check axle protrusion. The axle should end flush, or a little below the outside face of the dropout. It has to for the q/r to be able to clamp down properly.
That was my thought too. If the qr is tight but the wheel still slips there is a good chance the axle is protruding past the dropout face. If the axle is too long for the hub's OLD or it isn't centered that could well be the problem.
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Old 07-07-14 | 06:04 PM
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Thank you all!
The old one had not teeth to grip.
I ended up buying Shimano 105 skewer. My old one was 126mm and this is 130mm, hopefully the threads are long enough to tighten. If not I have an assortment of star lock washers.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 07-07-14 | 06:54 PM
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I'm guessing most decent bike shops would have some acorn nuts in their drawers of miscellaneous parts. Pretty good chance you could use the Shimano skewer's nut on your old skewer if the new one's length isn't quite right (or if you prefer the look of the classic skewer on the classic bike).
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