Hello everyone. I'm taking out my DuraAce 7700 bottom bracket this evening and I wanted to know what grease to use when I reinstall it. I have some white lithium grease, Phil's Grease, and some Teflon tape. Any of these better than the other? Thanks!

That's a sealed bottom bracket. There's nothing to grease, unless you're asking what to smear in the removable cup to help prevent squeeks. I'd use the white grease myself. I've had problems with Phil's grease melting out of wheel bearings (when not even riding) in the summer in the distant past.

It's not a sealed bb. Personally if i had to choose i think i would use the phils. But i use auto grease and i have had no issues.

Use the Phils...Good grease.

Overview of Lubricating Grease



Grease is used to lubricate moving parts, usually where metal rubs against metal. It's made to be thick so that it will stay put in places where it would be difficult to keep thinner oil next to moving parts or where oil could leak out, as in automotive wheel bearings and ball joints.

Grease has two main ingredients--

1. A lubricant that combats friction
2. A thickener, which gives the grease the consistency that will hold it in place next to moving parts

Often, a grease product also includes some other ingredient that will improve its performance in a particular application.






What the letters mean

• G - Certified for use in automotive wheel bearings
  • A - Good
  • B - Better
  • C - Best
• L - Certified for use in automotive chassis
  • A - Good
  • B - Best

Grease packaging may display the code GC-LB, meaning that it meets the most demanding test standards for both chassis and wheel bearings. Grease products displaying this highest rating meet OEM requirements.

Grease Viscosity

Grease is produced in a range of viscosities, or thicknesses, and each grease type is given a numerical rating to indicate its thickness. The most common categories are 0 to 6, with 0 being the softest- nearly a liquid- and 6 being the hardest, like the consistency of a firm cheese. Most grease is rated at 2, a consistency that is similar to peanut butter.






Biobased Grease

The part of grease that provides lubrication can be made from petroleum or from plants (biobased). Oil derived from plants is friendlier to the environment than oil made from petroleum because plant-based oils are renewable and non-toxic. Both types mix freely with each other so you can easily switch between the two.

Note: To determine if one kind of grease is compatible with another type, you must consider what kind of base it uses as well as the type of oil. See grease compatibility table, below.





Choosing the Right Grease for the Job

Note: Be sure to check owner's manuals for lubrication recommendations. Manufacturers often specify which type of grease should be used for their products, especially if they recommend using grease that contains an extra additive.

Multi-Purpose Grease

This is a general-purpose grease for the home, farm and shop. Use it for car chassis and U-joints, farm equipment, industrial machinery, and anywhere metal contacts metal. If you're using standard multi-purpose grease, be sure to follow the recommended change intervals.

• Multi-purpose grease is for general use around the home, farm and shop
• Used for car chassis, farm equipment and industrial machinery

White Lithium Grease

Zinc is added to this general-purpose grease, giving it a white color so you can easily see it. You can tell when all the old grease has been replaced in a fitting because it will come out dark, whereas the new grease will look clean and white. Use it wherever you would use a general-purpose grease and want to be absolutely certain that you have applied it thoroughly.

• White lithium grease is for general use around the home, farm and shop
• Contains zinc to lend it an easy-to-see white color
  • Helps you make sure that you have applied the right amount of grease to a fitting
• Used for car chassis, farm equipment and industrial machinery - anywhere you want to see how much grease you have applied

Moly EP Grease

This grease contains molybdenum disulfide (often refered to as "moly") for better performance than general-purpose grease when metal parts are under high loads or extreme pressure (hence the name "EP"). It's intended to be used on parts where sliding motions are encountered, in sleeve-journal rotating shafts, for example. Use it to lubricate car chassis parts such as ball joints and U-joints, as well as farm equipment and industrial machinery.

• Moly EP grease is for general use around the home, farm and shop
• Contains molybdenum disulfide for enhanced performance on parts with sliding motions
• Used for car chassis, farm equipment and industrial machinery

Disc/Drum Wheel Bearing Grease

This grease is formulated specifically to lubricate automotive wheel bearings, which turn at high speed. In addition, grease for wheel bearings will tolerate the heat created by your brakes, which work by friction. That heat can be transmitted to your wheel bearings. This grease can also be used for general-purpose lubrication.

• Disc/drum brake wheel bearing grease is especially effective for wheel bearings, and it works on vehicles with either disc or drum brakes
• Lubricates high-speed wheel bearings
• Tolerates heat generated by your vehicle's brakes
• Doubles as a general-purpose grease

LMX Red

This is heavy-duty, premium grease for the toughest lubricating jobs on the biggest, heaviest equipment. It performs better under higher pressures and temperatures than standard multi-purpose grease, and it resists water better. Because it resists water and sticks in place well, this grease will work on external parts that are exposed to the weather. It provides premium protection for car, truck and trailer wheel bearings (especially trailers that are heavily loaded), U-joints, farm equipment, and industrial machinery.

• LMX Red heavy-duty premium grease meets the toughest lubrication requirements
• Resists pressure, temperature and water better than standard grease
• Used for car chassis, agricultural equipment and industrial machinery
• Rated for use in wheel bearings

Marine Wheel Bearing Grease

This grease is formulated for enhanced ability to resist water that could cause corrosion. Use it especially to lubricate wheel bearings on boat trailers, or for anything that is used where it could get wet. Besides lubricating bearings, this grease works on swivel hinges, winches, anchor chain reels, steering cables and gimbal bearings.

• Marine wheel bearing grease is especially formulated to resist water
• Used to lubricate anything that could be exposed to water
• Rated for use in wheel bearings - a great choice for wheel bearings on boat trailers

Snowmobile Grease

Specifically made to perform well and apply easily in cold weather, this general-purpose grease will work for all your winter equipment. The base of this grease is thinner than the base of most other types of grease (it's rated NLGI grade #1 ), which helps it to perform consistently in cold weather. Since it's thinner than most other types of grease, you can apply it more easily when the temperature is cold.

• Snowmobile grease performs well in cold temperatures
• Made with a lower viscosity base than that of standard general-purpose grease, allowing this grease to be applied easily and to provide best lubrication in cold temperatures
• Used on any cold-weather equipment that needs lubrication, especially snowmobiles and snowblowers

Fifth-Wheel Trailer Hitch Plate Grease

This grease is formulated to handle high pressures, stay in place and resist water, making it well suited for lubricating the base plates of fifth-wheel hitches. You can find this grease conveniently packaged in pouches that you place directly onto the base plate of your fifth-wheel hitch. The pouches burst when you hook up your fifth-wheel trailer, thereby applying the grease. It can't get any easier than that.

• Fifth-wheel trailer plate grease is formulated for high resistance to pressure and water
• Available in pouches for easy and clean application

Grease Compatibility

Not all types of thickeners are compatible with each other. When replenishing old grease, you should try to use a type with either the same kind of thickener or one that is compatible. If you don't know what kind of grease you're replacing, try to clean out the old grease, if possible. If you can't get the old grease out of a fitting, then put in enough new grease to push out as much of the old stuff as you can. You will find the information you need about the kind of base used in your grease somewhere on the label or packaging. The manufacturer may refer to the base as "base", "thickener" or "soap".


The following table shows the compatibility of different grease bases:

[TABLE="class: indentlm blgr center"]
[TR]
[TH="bgcolor: #c0c0c0, colspan: 14"]Base Type
[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #c0c0c0"]Base
Type
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"][/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Aluminum
Complex
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Barium
Complex
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Calcium
Stearate
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Calcium
12-Hydroxystearate
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Calcium
Complex
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Calcium Sulfonate
Complex
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Bentonite
Clay
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Lithium
Stearate
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Lithium
12-Hydroxystearate
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Lithium
Complex
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Polyurea
(Conventional)
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Polyurea
(LUB-LM Type)
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Aluminum
Complex
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Barium
Complex
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Calcium
Stearate
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Calcium
12-Hydroxystearate
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Calcium
Complex
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Calcium Sulfonate
Complex
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Bentonite
Clay
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Lithium
Stearate
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Lithium
12-Hydroxystearate
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Lithium
Complex
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #f5f5f5"]Polyurea
(Conventional)
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: #dcdcdc"]Polyurea
(LUB-LM Type)
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #8b0000"]No
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="class: whtxt, bgcolor: #556b2f"]Yes
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: #000000"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

I have overhauled this model BB and used Superlube synthetic grease with excellent results: 3 Oz Super Lube® Grease
This is the closest to the stock Dura Ace grease I could find. Make sure you have a magnetic tray under the BB when you take this apart. The bearings are tiny and can fly everywhere from their retainers.

I use boat trailer wheel bearing grease for most bicycle applications. It is inexpensive, lasts a very long time, and works well.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Krazy synthetic grease at auto supply places is the best I have used.
It stays in place far better than that soupy Phil stuff.

I have a fair amount of grease in the shop... marine bearing grease is more than you would ever want for a bicycle's bottom bracket or hubs and provides excellent washout protection and synthetic is even better if you have to deal with colder temperatures.

Pick up some Mobil 1 synthetic... a pound is around $8.99 (U.S.) and you will be good to go for a long time.

Bicycle hubs, bottom brackets, and other bearing assemblies do not have to withstand the heat and pressures that automotive grease does but they are exposed to the elements so a marine grade grease is the best option.

The only exception I can think of would be coaster brake where you want something that withstand high temps.

Park's poly lube is an excellent waterproof grease but when you compare the price of it vs something like Mobil 1 it is a no brainer as to what you should buy.

For what you pay for a 4 oz tube of Park grease... you can get 16oz of automotive bearing grease.

That's funny. The Dura-Ace 7700 bottom bracket is advertised and sold as a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. Meaning it's designed to not need to be overhauled until replacement. Doesn't mean that it can't be taken apart, only that it shouldn't need to be taken apart and serviced during it's service life. Anything can be taken apart with determination, the problem usually comes when trying to reassemble.

I stopped using Phil's (Phil Wood) grease after finding it melting and leaking out of wheel bearing and bottom brackets when I was taking bikes off the roof rack of my car when I was arriving at the bike trail head. Just the trip in the sun from my house to the Orange County bike path was heating the Phil Wood enough that it was melting and running out of the bearing, and dripping onto the roof of the car.

After that, I did an informal test of about five kinds of greases in the middle of summer pacing dollops of different greases on a piece of cardboard to see what the heat would do to them. The winner was Valvoline Synthetic Automotive Grease. After sitting in the sun (sometimes over 105 degrees and cold down to the 50 degree range for four weeks, it did not change states or even start to break down. It just sat there. The other grease melted down, changed physical condition, changed shape, or changed color. The Phil Wood was a greasy looking spot/memory, having completely melted, and absorbed into the cardboard.

These require good quality grease and lots of it... really old bicycles used stuff that looked like black tar and the newer synthetic formulations can handle higher temps.

If you ride in hilly country you are going to get good at re-packing coaster hubs...

The inner protective sleeve may say "sealed," and it does have seals, but it still needs to be maintained,...as per Shimano's instructions. As I understand, it's essentially an adjustable cup & cone BB with needle and ball bearings and needs periodic cleaning and greasing.

Thanks for explaining that. I've never used a Dura-Ace 7700 bottom bracket. Just about all of my experience is with the Shimano 50 and 70 bottom brackets, and I don't take them apart (have never needed to).

The 7700 uses needle roller and angular contact caged bearings and has a lockring for preload adjustment. It's quite irritating and the ultegra and 105 models are much easier to use, and run smoother in my experience.

- joel

The D-A 7700 is not sealed and does require occasional maintenance. In my opinion it is a mechanical masterpiece and I don't know of a better BB. I've been using Phil's grease in mine but any high quality petroleum based grease should work well.

These last few posts are to my point. That any component needs periodic cleaning and lubing. The comment that I really can't stand is "Meaning it's designed to not need to be overhauled until replacement". So many bikes are sold on this premise. So many riders put off required maintenance because of this belief. Andy.

Do you mean this specifically with respect to cartridge bottom brackets, Andy? I've always believed that they are basically consumables (which seems a shame, but...) and that there is therefore no "required maintenance".

I'm midway through 'annual service' on a Brompton, so I'm not trying to put off maintenance - but I have resisted buying the tool to remove the BB on the grounds that there'd be nothing for me to do to it at this point. What would you do - clean, inspect and regrease threads?

There are degrees to what can be dealt with. For components that are not meant to be dissembled (like der parallelagrams, most unit BBs and crank spindle press fits as examples) then removal, cleaning and reinstalling is good. But bearing seals can be removed, caliper pivots unthreaded, pulley wheel bushings dissembled. Unit BBs can be removed from the shell and spindle. Posts removed. Interfacing surfaces cleaned and lubed before reassembly. All pivots spot lubed if not taken apart. And there's more of course.

What I do at work for paying customers is their choice. What I do for my self is my choice. I ride many years old stuff that was top grade in their time and now are still really nice. Tires, cables, rims (spokes w/ rims), chains, cogs/rings, tape, cleats get serviced but replaced as they wear out. Most all else gets strung along as long as the standard can work for me. Andy.

Thanks for the detailed reply. All for making components last as long as possible! There may be a BBT-4 in my future...

Thanks for all the responses everyone. Here is a link to the DuraAce 7700 schematic. I'm taking this bottom bracket out of my Lemond Zurich and installing in a Lemond Malliot Jaune. Originally thought a Park BBT-22 tool would work but it does not. You need a BBT-32.