v-brake mounting post
#1
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Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Central PA / Silver Spring MD
Bikes: Bridgestone MB-5 (93), Bridgestone RB-1 (89), Giordana Spica (90)
v-brake mounting post
Hi all,
I'm in the process of trying to upgrade the v-brakes on my wife's Cannondale Quick SL3, but need some help.
I acquired some Shimano XT (BR-T780) arms and levers. I installed the arms into the rear mounting holes without any difficulty. However, the mounting points on the front fork don't seem to have any mounting bosses in them, and the hole in the fork is much too large for the bolts that came with the XTs. The existing cannondale brand (promax) brakes use a course threaded bolt straight into the fork (which is carbon, if it matters).
I'm a bit at a loss as to how to proceed. Any help will be much appreciated.
Here are two pictures that will hopefully clarify the situation.
First, the rear mounting points, showing the boss that the brake slid onto:

And then the front fork image, along with the old brake:

The Shimano instructions I have lead me to believe that there should be a mounting boss in the hole in the front fork. Is this a standard item I can just buy from a LBS?
Thanks!
I'm in the process of trying to upgrade the v-brakes on my wife's Cannondale Quick SL3, but need some help.
I acquired some Shimano XT (BR-T780) arms and levers. I installed the arms into the rear mounting holes without any difficulty. However, the mounting points on the front fork don't seem to have any mounting bosses in them, and the hole in the fork is much too large for the bolts that came with the XTs. The existing cannondale brand (promax) brakes use a course threaded bolt straight into the fork (which is carbon, if it matters).
I'm a bit at a loss as to how to proceed. Any help will be much appreciated.
Here are two pictures that will hopefully clarify the situation.
First, the rear mounting points, showing the boss that the brake slid onto:
And then the front fork image, along with the old brake:
The Shimano instructions I have lead me to believe that there should be a mounting boss in the hole in the front fork. Is this a standard item I can just buy from a LBS?
Thanks!
#2
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
This is normal, and began with the advent of aluminum forks especially shock forks. You can't braze a steel boss to an aluminum strut, so they tap the strut to accept a threaded-in (and replaceable) boss.
I believe they are all, or at least mostly all, of the same 10mm(?) thread, but possibly someone will add to the thread and verify.
They are readily available if you search replaceable canti boss or something similar.
I believe they are all, or at least mostly all, of the same 10mm(?) thread, but possibly someone will add to the thread and verify.
They are readily available if you search replaceable canti boss or something similar.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 08-08-14 at 05:04 PM.
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 52
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From: Central PA / Silver Spring MD
Bikes: Bridgestone MB-5 (93), Bridgestone RB-1 (89), Giordana Spica (90)
Yeah, looking a bit closer it occurs to me that the bosses may have just come off with the brake, and are now stuck on the removed brake.
Is there are straight forward way of separating them? Or am I just better off finding replacement bosses?
Is there are straight forward way of separating them? Or am I just better off finding replacement bosses?
#4
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Find something that will allow you to hold the base of the stud solidly without damaging the thread much. Remove the front bolt as you would when removing the brake, and the stud is yours. When you go to install, there should be wrench flats, so you can get them nice and tight (tighter than you plan to tighten the brake mounting bolt). You might also use a light duty thread locker to ensure that they stay put next time. (many replacements are supplied with a thradlocker pre-applied).
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 52
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From: Central PA / Silver Spring MD
Bikes: Bridgestone MB-5 (93), Bridgestone RB-1 (89), Giordana Spica (90)
Thanks all. I was able to get them off with a pair of linesmans pliers, and only minimal thread damage.
For whatever reason, the threads going into the stem had grease, not thread lock, on them.
The new brakes (Deore XT) are installed and seem to work well.
For whatever reason, the threads going into the stem had grease, not thread lock, on them.
The new brakes (Deore XT) are installed and seem to work well.
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