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Old 08-23-14 | 04:50 AM
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This may be a long one so please bare with me.

I have a 2012 Defy 2 which I picked up used last year. The bike is stock with mainly Tiagra components and a FSA crank, not to say that I'm unhappy with its performance, but was planning to upgrade later on when I had more riding experience and it seems like I had nothing but trouble with the bike since I bought it. The main problem is that it has a clicking BB (was like that since the first day I brought it home........didn't have a chance to try it out before buying........long story) and since its a low end crankset (19mm spindle model), no place online has it in stock....... the LBS wants $60+ to order it in (I think that is before taxes and not sure if shipping was in included in the quote)

Crap that's kinda steep since I see brand new 24mm one's on Ebay for under $30 and I can get a brand new Tiagra 4603, plus a Shimano press fit BB for around $110.

So here are the option I can see
1. Sell the bike at a discounted price to accommodate the cost to replace the BB and add a bit in for new bike....... Saw a couple in the price range I'm willing to spend with better components and and since its new I get a warranty on the frame.
2. Grab the Tiagra triple and BB. Since its only $40 more.
3. Ride it as is till I find a suitable BB on Ebay or whatnot....... I'm not sure what other damage it can cause and the clicking has gotten worse.
4. Pay the LBS the $$$60+

Just wondering what you all think about the situation? Your input is much appreciated.

A little more about myself and riding experience. I'm a recreational rider, only out 7 months in the year...... 80-200km a week type guy.
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Old 08-23-14 | 07:18 AM
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The LBS should be specific about the total cost up front. Shipping, actual part and any other cost other then tax. Any less then full disclosure is a bad sign. So the first thing I'd consider is going back to the shop and re asking, also ask them about the Tiagra too. $60 to $110 for a crankset isn't too steep at all, make sure any BB cost is included in their quote. I always have liked the Shimano rings and think that they shift better then most other brands.

Who will install the replacement crank? Around here we see a $25 to $30 labor cost to install. If you wish to do it yourself the tools will cost something...

If you already have the tools and the skill try taking apart the OEN crank and BB then reinstall them properly. You might just cure the clicking. If not at least you've learned how to do this and whether you can install the new crank properly yourself.

If you sell the bike you do owe it to the buyer to either fix the problem or fully disclose the condition. Lastly as long as you ride you'll find a need for service and stuff that the LBS might provide. So establishing a relationship with them is a good choice and will help you in the future. Andy.
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Old 08-24-14 | 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
The LBS should be specific about the total cost up front. Shipping, actual part and any other cost other then tax. Any less then full disclosure is a bad sign. So the first thing I'd consider is going back to the shop and re asking, also ask them about the Tiagra too. $60 to $110 for a crankset isn't too steep at all, make sure any BB cost is included in their quote. I always have liked the Shimano rings and think that they shift better then most other brands.

Who will install the replacement crank? Around here we see a $25 to $30 labor cost to install. If you wish to do it yourself the tools will cost something...

If you already have the tools and the skill try taking apart the OEN crank and BB then reinstall them properly. You might just cure the clicking. If not at least you've learned how to do this and whether you can install the new crank properly yourself.

If you sell the bike you do owe it to the buyer to either fix the problem or fully disclose the condition. Lastly as long as you ride you'll find a need for service and stuff that the LBS might provide. So establishing a relationship with them is a good choice and will help you in the future. Andy.
Oh for sure I will list the problem with the ad and price accordingly....... Just bad KARMA if I don't......... I'm still telling myself the fellow who sold me the bike knew nothing about the problem beforehand, it was in storage since moving out of his parents house, and the valve just cut when he was pumping up the tire while I was on my way to his parents house...................... Just to keep myself Civilized

I did get more pricing info from the LBS and the $63 they quoted did not include taxes or shipping so I'm actually looking at a bit over $80, so that's for sure a no go. Considering with the $110 I stated earlier I get a 4603 crank, English BB, and a Shimano Pressfit BB (This is all bought online and I will be selling off the English BB so it will actually be cheaper than $110)............. On the same note does anyone know the difference between these two BB
SM-BB71-41B Shimano BB71 Road Press Fit Bottom Bracket | Chain Reaction Cycles
SM-BB91-41B Shimano BB91 Road Press Fit Bottom Bracket | Chain Reaction Cycles

If I do go this route I will be installing the BB myself and planning to make my own BB press. As far as I know there are no professionally made tool to remove a 19mm pressfit BB, everyone seems to just knocking them out with a hammer and screwdriver, and supposedly they are not meant for reuse. I did repack the BB and swapped out all the chain ring bolts to no avail.

As for a new bike I was looking at GT GTR2 and a Nashber house brand with Ultegra. Kinda like the Nashbar one since its had no branding. Has anyone had any experience with these two brands? Would the frame on the Nashbar be considered a downgrade from the Giant? I was planning to get a brand new bike later on, once I figured if I would stick to road biking, and with the cash I would get for the Defy and not spend on the crank I'm not too far off from these bikes.

Last edited by J.Drop; 08-24-14 at 03:40 AM.
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Old 08-24-14 | 09:20 AM
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TMI, so we can break your decision tree down a little. Before starting though, if the LBS is charging a total out of pocket $60 for a new BB, saving a max of $30, that's not bad at all, IMO. Are you sure it's the BB?

Try this: it's a bike, are you interested in doing your own work on any of your bikes or will you engage the LBS for most adjustments and repairs? Doing almost all your own work can make you a better customer to the LBS when you need them, save you money, if your own labor rate is $1 an hour. Tools you only have to buy once. Mistakes and re-do's are part of the learning process. Everything I touch gets supper cleaned and greased or lubed to mfg recommendations. I do it because I like it. And I have found LBS's that help me get it right, while doing a better job on my bikes when I need them.

If you replace the BB, and it is not the source of the click, you now have a spare BB, ready to go when you wear out the new one.


Second, does the frame work really well for you? If so, then upgrading components isn't so bad, selling the used component group to offset the cost. If you have any doubts about the bike as a whole, including the frame, then it's time to unload it for a no-compromise fit.
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Old 08-24-14 | 09:36 AM
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Cart before the horse. You have no evidence that the BB is the cause of the click, and in fact it's very rare that it is, and unless the shop already addressed the other possible causes neither do they. In probably 99% of the cases it's a loose part - crank, pedal, chainwheel bolts or the part securing the BB into the shell. Indeed if they replace the BB the click may go away - because in the process they will normally tighten most of those items. Creaks, Clicks & Clunks
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Old 08-24-14 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RoadTire
TMI, so we can break your decision tree down a little. Before starting though, if the LBS is charging a total out of pocket $60 for a new BB, saving a max of $30, that's not bad at all, IMO. Are you sure it's the BB?

Try this: it's a bike, are you interested in doing your own work on any of your bikes or will you engage the LBS for most adjustments and repairs? Doing almost all your own work can make you a better customer to the LBS when you need them, save you money, if your own labor rate is $1 an hour. Tools you only have to buy once. Mistakes and re-do's are part of the learning process. Everything I touch gets supper cleaned and greased or lubed to mfg recommendations. I do it because I like it. And I have found LBS's that help me get it right, while doing a better job on my bikes when I need them.

If you replace the BB, and it is not the source of the click, you now have a spare BB, ready to go when you wear out the new one.


Second, does the frame work really well for you? If so, then upgrading components isn't so bad, selling the used component group to offset the cost. If you have any doubts about the bike as a whole, including the frame, then it's time to unload it for a no-compromise fit.
Yeah the total I will be paying for the BB would be around $80, if I was to get the new crank and sell off the English bb and old crank it might turn out to be even less than that. Also with the the 19mm pressfit BB there are no specific tools made to remove the cups and they are supposedly not intended for reuse........

The frame fits well enough, my only complaints is that I was never fond of the looks of the bike, and really never had much luck with this one (always little problem here and there since I picked it up)



Originally Posted by cny-bikeman
Cart before the horse. You have no evidence that the BB is the cause of the click, and in fact it's very rare that it is, and unless the shop already addressed the other possible causes neither do they. In probably 99% of the cases it's a loose part - crank, pedal, chainwheel bolts or the part securing the BB into the shell. Indeed if they replace the BB the click may go away - because in the process they will normally tighten most of those items. Creaks, Clicks & Clunks
I have check all the usual thing....... different pedals, quick release, oil spokes, new chainring bolts. shortened derailleur cable,.....etc etc. The clicking happens every down stroke. If I am standing, riding aggressively swaying the bike side to side, it is a very loud click and just a very quiet click otherwise. Also I had check the Sheldon Brown site before and when pressing my right crank arm towards the seat tube, there is a slight ticking noise, If I was to stand and put my weight on one pedal I get a pretty audible click. So I'm pretty sure the problem is with the BB, since I have changed the chain ring bolts and everything is torque to spec.

Last edited by J.Drop; 08-25-14 at 04:09 AM.
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Old 08-25-14 | 05:09 AM
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..and why is it you thought it unimportant to provide the above info at the outset?
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Old 08-25-14 | 06:28 AM
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Try wrapping the bb cup threads with a turn or two of teflon pipe thread tape. If one of the two sides of the thread is slightly off-spec, you can get a click.
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Old 08-25-14 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by cny-bikeman
..and why is it you thought it unimportant to provide the above info at the outset?
Oh I was just in a hurry to get some opinions and had posted the problem earlier..... should have left the link
So any suggestions

$80 new BB "according to FSA there are no tools made to remove or install this size BB"
$110 new crank "price also includes the Park Tool bb90.3 since I will sell the old crank and English BB to offset the price of the tool"
$300 new bike "better component and warranty on the frame"

Originally Posted by demoncyclist
Try wrapping the bb cup threads with a turn or two of teflon pipe thread tape. If one of the two sides of the thread is slightly off-spec, you can get a click.
Thanks for the tip but the BB I have is a pressfit, so no threads. Was thinking about slapping something together to press it again but did have the time.
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Old 08-25-14 | 12:10 PM
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sorry- posted before coffee hit its intended target...
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