Gap between headtube and fork. HELP!
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2014
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Gap between headtube and fork. HELP!
First, let me say thanks for the info I've received through lurking this forum. * I appreciate it.*
Bought a brand new Specialized Langster last week. * Today I switched the drop bars to a bullhorn style, and upgraded brake & lever. *
My question... *After taking off the stem I was careful to not let the fork slip thru the head tube, but it did slip about an inch. **
Now, there's a 2mm gap between the head tube and the fork. * Did I screw something up? * *AT NO TIME did I take off any bearings or bits, so I know nothing is missing or upside down. * *Also, I know there was NO GAP there before. * Did I unseat something? **
A quick check of the tension checks out (no clunk in headset, and not too tight either.. wheel flops side to side). * *Dirt/water will quickly destroy this and I know there was no gap prior. **
Anyone??? * Cheers
-Karl
Bought a brand new Specialized Langster last week. * Today I switched the drop bars to a bullhorn style, and upgraded brake & lever. *
My question... *After taking off the stem I was careful to not let the fork slip thru the head tube, but it did slip about an inch. **
Now, there's a 2mm gap between the head tube and the fork. * Did I screw something up? * *AT NO TIME did I take off any bearings or bits, so I know nothing is missing or upside down. * *Also, I know there was NO GAP there before. * Did I unseat something? **
A quick check of the tension checks out (no clunk in headset, and not too tight either.. wheel flops side to side). * *Dirt/water will quickly destroy this and I know there was no gap prior. **
Anyone??? * Cheers
-Karl
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,682
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From: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike
i think i would... check that, i KNOW i would disassemble the headset/fork and see what's what.
and even though i may have a few ideas about the cause of the problem (who doesn't?) they would all necessitate reassembly, so there's no point in mentioning them. good luck.
and even though i may have a few ideas about the cause of the problem (who doesn't?) they would all necessitate reassembly, so there's no point in mentioning them. good luck.
#4
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Since it's brand new, the easy thing to do, is drop back into the dealer, explain and ask him to check.
OTOH, odds are something moved when the fork dropped and you didn't reseat it properly. How does the headset/steering feel?
Try flipping the bike over so gravity holds the fork in place. Now loosen the headset hardware and lift the fork enough to see into the lower bearing, and see if you can see the problem, or if some gentle maneuvering of the fork as you let it settle it back down can guide whatever had moved back home. Of you can settle the lower end in place, hold it there while you turn the bike back over and place it on the wheels right side up. Now gravity will hold the frame down on the fork, and you can assemble the upper end, attach the stem and spacers and adjust the headset.
For future reference, Do not loosen the stem of a threadless headset system unless the front wheel is on the ground.
OTOH, odds are something moved when the fork dropped and you didn't reseat it properly. How does the headset/steering feel?
Try flipping the bike over so gravity holds the fork in place. Now loosen the headset hardware and lift the fork enough to see into the lower bearing, and see if you can see the problem, or if some gentle maneuvering of the fork as you let it settle it back down can guide whatever had moved back home. Of you can settle the lower end in place, hold it there while you turn the bike back over and place it on the wheels right side up. Now gravity will hold the frame down on the fork, and you can assemble the upper end, attach the stem and spacers and adjust the headset.
For future reference, Do not loosen the stem of a threadless headset system unless the front wheel is on the ground.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 4
From: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike
even though the OP stated that "Also, I know there was NO GAP there before." the question is, IMO, legitimate.
in fact that there MUST be a gap between the headtube and fork on an integrated headset to allow the fork to move freely.
i took the time to lake a peek at my two carbon framed bikes with integrated headsets. the gap on both is about 2mm.
in fact that there MUST be a gap between the headtube and fork on an integrated headset to allow the fork to move freely.
i took the time to lake a peek at my two carbon framed bikes with integrated headsets. the gap on both is about 2mm.






