boneshaker78

I've got this old Tange MTB steel fork that has worn out cantilever brake studs. The brakes have all sorts of play in them when mounted on and using them like this doesn't seem like a good idea. Luckily the frame I acquired with the fork has replaceable studs. The fork on the other hand appears to have riveted type studs. The fork is fine, not bent or unusable in any way, so I'd like to keep it. It should be mentioned that this is a project geared towards riding throughout the Buffalo, NY winter... budget is really important because anything I use will get trashed.

All of that being said, what do I do? I'm guessing it isn't a good idea to use them with all of that sloppy play. Is there a way to mount replaceable studs in place of the once riveted like studs? Is it time for a new fork?

AnkleWork

Are you sure the brake arm bushings are not worn most? Have you tried new arms?

fietsbob

Steel post worn out ? I've never had that happen , those are Brazed on..
you are talking Custom frame maker to do anything other than add more brass.

the sloppy fit can be resolved with buying a better brake set..

Best? (Best is a popular Forum topic starter for dueling opinions.)

Magura's HS33 Hydraulic rim brakes are a V Brake type , but they use the brake bosses as a Mounting post not a pivot..
HS33 R*| MAGURA
the pad is on a piston, and moves horizontally ..

Cable brakes.. Pauls Comp makes a stainless steel sleeve that goes over the frame Boss so they can get the slop out, and add O-rings
to keep the pivot grease clean..

Neo-Retro from Paul Component Engineering ..Touring Canti from Paul Component Engineering ..

Motolite from Paul Component Engineering

fietsbob

Oh and there is another approach

My Studded tire MTB wheels have Drum brake hubs , the frame brake bosses are ignored.

70mm drum Sturmey Archer Front. Optional add a dynamo . Sturmey Archer
90mm drum.. https://www.sturmey-archer.com/produc...d/2/id/50.html & https://www.sturmey-archer.com/produc...d/2/id/48.html

Archer rear, cassette.

or Sturmey Archer screw on freewheel , 6~7 speed

dsbrantjr

I'd give the brakes a try first. If they stop OK and don't chatter excessively I'd give them a go. Most of the braking stress in the front is taken by the bolt head and washer, and the bolt reinforces the stud, so as long as the arms don't move around too much they should be fine. I wouldn't expect any sudden failures due to the worn studs.

boneshaker78

I should have known they were brazed on. I tried a set of brakes I just bought a couple of years ago and they were still sloppy. I was thinking I might be able to cut these studs off, drill a hole to fit replaceable studs and then nut them on. If not that, can I just use them sloppy, what harm could it do?

boneshaker78

Yep, I'll give them a try. Want to build this thing cheap so if I can get away with it I will.

dabac

+1

The overwhelming majority of cantis and v-brakes don't move against the studs/bosses. They move around a bushing that's mounted in the arm.
On assembly the bushing gets pinched in place by the screw and stays stationary, then the arm move around the bushing. A close fit on the stud/boss is not required.
Likewise a close fit on the stud/boss won't help if there's excessive play between the bushing and the arm. Replace the brakes and try again.

Medic Zero

.

If I were looking for a cheap fix, if there's a bike co-op or used bike parts place in your city, I'd go there with the current fork in hand and see if they have anything that looks like it is about the same trail and steer tube length. That should be dirt cheap. Come to think of it, I've seen one regular LBS in town with a big bucket full of old forks, it wouldn't hurt to ask at your LBS.

Also, it used to be you could get a rather basic new replacement front fork for about $25 through QBP, I don't know if this is still the case, but that is probably another option (figure a dozen years inflation on price). Any LBS should be able to order one of these.

Is anyone else seeing one of the studs looks bent? I'm seeing two pics in the OP's post, but only one shows up when I try to quote it, so I can't include it here, sorry.

Andrew R Stewart 

I agree with trying a canti set which has it's bushing/pivot internal to the arm. So the fork's boss only serves to locate the inner sleeve of the arm's bushing. But I also have seen many cantis which have a lot of pivot slop and they work fine without undo chatter or problems. The LAST thing I would do is to cut off the bosses, The very last thing. Andy.