gears changes 10-15 secs after clicking??
#1
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From: Queens
Bikes: Canyon Aeroad, Parlee ESX, Factor o2,Colnago CX Zero Disc,
gears changes 10-15 secs after clicking??
when I shift to an easier gear, sometimes it shifts then like 10 seconds it slips to an even easier gear??? I was messing with the cable tension ....would this be an indication of too much or too little tension?
#2
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From: Bay Area, Calif.
Sounds like there's too much friction somewhere in the cable run so the cable isn't moving fully to the new position the moment you shift. instead it's moving partway and then gradually moves a little farther over the next 10 seconds.
#3
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
Shifting to an easier gear, you pull cable.
So, that sounds like your cable is too tight if it shifts again, since the cable isn't going to "creep" tighter.
Having a delay when shifting to a smaller cog is a classic symptom of excessive cable friction.
In that scenario, you only have the spring tension of the RDER to complete the shift, so a sticky cable will slowly "creep" into position.
So, that sounds like your cable is too tight if it shifts again, since the cable isn't going to "creep" tighter.
Having a delay when shifting to a smaller cog is a classic symptom of excessive cable friction.
In that scenario, you only have the spring tension of the RDER to complete the shift, so a sticky cable will slowly "creep" into position.
#4
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From: Bay Area, Calif.
If there's excess friction then the cable can have more tension at the shifter end than it does at the derailleur just after the cable pull due to shifting. The cable then gradually creeps the rest of the way and the tension equalizes.
#5
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Sounds like too much tension to me. It shifts to the easier gear first, then because it's slightly too tight, it goes to an even easier gear. I bet it's really a hard push to get it into the lowest gear. I bet it doesn't upshift really well, either. Anyway, before buying all new cables and housing, try setting it up from scratch- set the limit screws, the b-screw, then set the cable tension while the bike is on the stand. If it doesn't pop from one gear to another, it's probably time for new cables and housing.
#6
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The answer is opposite depending on front or rear. Forget about arbitrary rules and think about what's happening, and how you wish to change it.
If I read you right, the RD is sluggish on downshifts, so you might want to adjust the trim to more it inward a bit more. Since pulling cable moves it in, you want to shorten the wire (or more precisely lengthen the housing) to more the trim more inboard. Be aware that this may make upshifts sluggish, so you're looking for the trim with the best balance of the two.
If you can't get good shift response in both directions, then look at other factors such as cable friction.
If I read you right, the RD is sluggish on downshifts, so you might want to adjust the trim to more it inward a bit more. Since pulling cable moves it in, you want to shorten the wire (or more precisely lengthen the housing) to more the trim more inboard. Be aware that this may make upshifts sluggish, so you're looking for the trim with the best balance of the two.
If you can't get good shift response in both directions, then look at other factors such as cable friction.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.





