Hello,

I'm trying to remove the bottom bracket from a 2005 Giant OCR 2 that was originally purchased in England. Everything's pretty much straight Tiagra, but I can't get this bottom bracket off.

I have the correct remover for it, and it fits properly, but I can't get anything to budge. If I understand it correctly, I have to turn the non-drive side counter-clockwise, but I can't get it to move.

Before I break anything I wanted to confirm that I am in fact turning the correct side in the correct direction.

I've included as many pictures as I can to help clarify the issue - I'd be happy to provide additional pics.

Thanks for any insight you might be able to lend.

The cranks (no problem getting them off):


Non-drive side:





Drive side:

Not sure why this is relevant, BB standards are the same worldwide, individual countries don't get specific BB standards.

For the issue, check the direction here Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Cartridge Bearing Type Bottom Bracket Service

Penetrating oil, WD40/PB Blaster, then leverage, if you have a vice, stick the tool in the vice and then turn the frame on it,

BBs are notorious for sometimes being on wickedly tight. You are turning in the right direction. Pedals remove by turning the tool towards the rear, and BBs towards the front of the bike has always worked for me, although it isn't entirely foolproof. I strongly recommend using something to keep the splined tool engaged. Last time I used a big C-clamp. And a friend sitting on the rack. And a 5' pipe threaded over the wrench for extra leverage. Almost had the rear wheel off the ground before the BB broke loose.

Ok great, I thought I was doing it right, I just underestimated the amount of force that would be required and wanted to check in before I hurt something.

Great idea!

Wow! And I was worried I was applying to much force by leaning on my socket wrench with most of my weight.

I feel confident now in what I'm doing, I'll give it another crack (hopefully not too literally) this afternoon and report back.

Thanks!

Assuming you have the remover firmly clamped to the bottom bracket cup (an M8x1.0 bolt about 40 mm long threaded through the Park BBT and into the spindle threads is an excellent way to hold it in place) and are turning it the right direction, I've used a rubber mallet to pound on the wrench handle to break the cup loose. Have the bike resting on it's wheels on the ground as you don't want to damage the frame by having it clamped to the repair stand.

Finally! Got it off.

After letting it sit overnight and let the penetrating oil do it's work, I followed jimc101's advice and put it in a vise to minimize stress on the frame and used dabac's advice and used a c-clamp to prevent it from jumping off.

We ended up pushing so hard trying to get it loose, that we just ended up pushing the bike, vise, and 500-lb workbench all around the room. What finally worked was we got out the heatgun, set it to 400 C (750 F) and heated up the bottom bracket and we were immediately able to get it off with no small amount of effort. It was well-rusted in place. Definitely going to use anti-seize when it comes time to put it back together.

Here's it all apart (and cleaned!):


I assume I just need to go into any bike shop and replace the two bearing cartridges and I'm good to go (correct me if I'm wrong).

Thanks everyone for all the help.

Last question:

Should I just replace the two bearing cartridges, or should/could I replace the whole thing with something like this Shimano Alivio BB-UN26 68x113mm-ENG Square Tapered - Mountain Equipment Co-op. Free Shipping Available ?

Thanks

The Shimano cartridge is a good alternative if you can get a spindle length that matches your crankset. If you decide to just replace the current bearings, try a local industrial supply shop like McMaster-Carr, Grainger or Bearings Inc. They will have the same or better bearings for a lot less money. Take your old bearing with you to get a match or find the bearing size information printed on the bearings themselves.

No and yes. BBs with replaceable cartridge bearings aren't that common, it'd surprise me if your average shop would have them at hand. I'd try an industrial supply place instead.
If the bearings are the most common kind, with balls that run in grooves, you need to take some care at assembly, as those don't like axial loads much. Get the preload wrong and it'll wear out in no time.

That IS an option, sure. Only actual drawback-apart from having to figure out what axle length to use-is if you intend to go on some serious touring. A cartridge BB can't be serviced, only replaced. No big deal as long as you stay within reach of bicycle shops. Cartridge bearings OTOH are a bit more universal. It's unlikely but not impossible to end up someplace where you can get cartridge bearings but not a cartridge BB.