Product: Nashbar Carbon Cyclocross Fork

Is a fork I am thinking about putting on an older Cannondale road bike, to try out a disc front brake.

My questions are:

1. Can this steerer be threaded to accept a old style threaded headset?

2. Can the canti studs be (non destructively) removed? Do they just thread in? Or are they bonded?

IMO, not possible to thread it or remove the studs and make a usable fork.

i'm guessing, and it's just a guess, that a disc ready threaded fork will be hard to find. if that's where you're headed...

You absolutely CAN NOT threat a carbon steerer.

As for the studs. Most carbon forks use removable canti posts. So the 1" posts can be removed, but the base "lump" is part of the fork. If you go that route, you can find plastic plugs for the threaded holes.

The steerer on that fork is a 1" steel threadless . I'm wondering if those can be threaded?

Maybe, probably not. It's tough to put a full set of threads on a threadless steerer. I would talk to a framebuilder about threading a steerer, but they tend to buy steer tubes pre-threaded. "Normal" fork dies are usually used to clean up threads- full-on thread cutting dies are pretty rare.

Also, I'd worry about the force of the thread cutting loosening the bond between the steer tube and the rest of the carbon fork. You could get it done and then have the fork come apart later. No bueno...

The product description is that the legs are carbon, crown is aluminium, and with that my guess is that it's an aluminium steer tube. I think it can't be threaded.

I'm too lazy to search, but recall reading it once here somewhere.

Aluminum steering tubes can be threaded.

Back when aluminum forks were new, and threadless headsets and carbon forks didn't exist yet, aluminum forks were offered with the Buyer's Choice of steel or aluminum steering tubes. If you bought a fork with a steering tube that was too long, you could use spacers or cut the steering tube down. If the threading did not extend down far enough, the steering tube a threading die could be run down the create threads.

When I bought a Specialized Kinesis aluminum fork for my Schwinn 754, I had a choice of steel or aluminum steering tubes. I picked a steel steering tube, and had it cut down to fit my 21" frame. I don't remember the exact weight numbers, but the aluminum steering tube on the same design fork (I thought that with the aluminum steering tube the complete fork was incredible light) was about $50 more at the time. It would have saved me another considerable amount of weight (another 8-10ozs, if I remember correctly) over the aluminum fork with steel steering tube (the aluminum fork was already over 8-10ozs lighter than the original steel unicrown fork).

Why not just get a 1" threadless headset for the bike and use the carbon fork as it is?

That probably makes sense (to use a threadless headset). I was hoping to not change the whole headset-stem-bar system, but maybe I'll have to.

If it'd a steel steerer odds are it CAN be threaded. I do this all the time. There is a small percentage of steel steerers that cannot be threaded because the walls are too thin. But these don't accept quill stems anyway since the ID is wrong.

Changing headset and stem is far more simple and straightforward than threading the fork, but that is possible too.

No, the steerer is not steel, it's aluminum and cannot be threaded. Road Guy is correct that threaded aluminum steerers were once available but they were made that way OEM and a threadless steerer should not be threaded afterward. As recommended, if you want that fork, buy a threadless headset and stem to match. I assume the canti studs will unscrew and the holes can be capped. Also be sure the A-C (axle to crown) dimension is compatible with your frame and similar to your current fork.

You aren't going to do much better for $125.

I'm sorry, [MENTION=372955]Scooby Snax[/MENTION] was correct, it is an aluminum steerer tube. Apologies for giving misinformation.

Next question, it would go on this bike


Does anyone think the Nasbar fork will affect the bike's handling in a negative and noticeable way? I assume the dropout-to-crown distance is longer on the Nasbar fork (since it is described as a "cyclocross" fork), which will raise the head tube a little and slacken the head tube angle a little.

I am on the fence about this. It seems the easiest and cheapest way to try out a disc front brake. This is my foul weather road bike, it has been fitted with Crud Roadracer fenders and clipless pedals since the photo was taken. But it won't be all that "easy" since at a minimum I'll have to have to source a tubular rim matching the rear (old Campagnolo rims), build a new front wheel, replace the headset and stem. Nor will it be that "cheap" since after pricing the parts, I'm concluding the cost will be $580 I'm adding up prices for fork, rim (used), spokes/nipples, disc hub, rotor, brake, mount adapter, headset, stem - using generally cheaper brands. And the bike will likely be a little heavier. Ugh, I'm slipping off the fence.

From the Nashbar description page for this fork: Axle to crown = 391mm. So, measure your current fork and see how it compares. Yes, this is going to be an expensive project and only you can decide if the cost is worth it.

The change of head angle (which might be about 1.5* assuming some common dimensions) is but one factor in determining handling. The rake is another and the rake, tire diameter and head angle will result in a trail number. But this still is not the complete story. The weight balance between the ft and rr comes into play as will the center of mass shifting up/down/fore/aft. One can make some basic predictions but until the fork is actually installed and the bike ridden exact opinions () won't be fully known.

I would advise a headset and stem change over to threadless instead of threading the steerer. This suggestion is fully reversible with no loss of fork value or possible integrity. It is prudent to consider not threading a steerer. many have tried and had less then acceptable results. Especially with an AL steerer, remember AL tends to crack and not bend or stretch on failure. There's a reason that the AL 1" steerer forks didn't last long in the market place and why no ones (that I know of) were ever threaded OEM. Andy.

Thanks, guys. I may buy the fork and then set it aside while I look for the necessary other parts on the "pre-owned" market. This project is more a curiosity-satisfier than a burning need.

I have two of these forks, in both steerer sizes. The 1" one I bought last year was missing a drill hole on one of the disc brake tabs. I'm sure you could get a shop to drill it, but just a heads up. You should check before you sit it aside.

Also, as someone who put this fork on a '93 Cannondale T-1000, I don't like the look. I'm waiting on funding to switch it out with a steel fork.

Suggest getting a craigslist bike with a threadless 1 1/8" steerer if you want to experiment.

get a threadless 1" headset and a locking spacer that will grip the steeretube..

use a removable compression nut , get the headset in adjustment secure the stem like bolts on the locking collar ..

Then you can use a regular 22.2mm stem in it.

one of Sheldon B's tricks threadless headet, un cut (so stronger ) where the headset lies, then just the last .5" to .75" gets threaded

and the top locknut holds the adjustment of the threadless headset.

I think the first Vitus aluminum forks were available with threaded 1" aluminum steerers. After a few broke, they were withdrawn.

Jeff- yes I believe you are right. I never dealt much with the Alans and Vitus as I was building with steel and they were the "enemy". But your comment does reinforce my concerns about threading AL steerers. Thanks. Andy.

i have a 1" threaded Kinesis aluminum fork. they went to the trouble to bond a steel steerer on it. it's a lousy fork, but it has lasted now for about 40,000 miles.

What don't you like about it?

And if it's that bad, why is it still on your bike?

Okay, sorry to be irritating but here is another question.

Suppose I had a framebuilder weld disc brake tabs on the existing fork (or another steel threaded 1" road fork of the same height and rake, if I don't want to mess up the bike's original fork).

I have read that disc brake forks are built stiffer than rim brake forks, but how unsatisfactory would this actually be? It would allow me to keep the same geometry and headset etc, and avoid putting a fatty cyclocross fork with canti bumps on my R1000.

I wouldn't,those legs look a touch spindly for that.

Depends on the fork. Disc forks are beefier,but CF dampens vibes better than steel,but it still comes down to the specific fork's design.

Honestly,I'd pick a different bike to do this with. Between the 1" steerer and threading,you're looking at having to swap out too many parts to modernize it to take a disc. I'd hunt around for a used Schwinn DBX or,if you can tolerate an alloy fork,look into a Novara Zealo on clearance. Or if this is just going to be a bad weather beater,look into one of BikesDirect's disc cross bikes.

So friends... are we going to have a wave of disk brake installing attempts on old spindly steel frames now? Like there's a wave of single speeding old road bikes. If so I suspect we shop rats will be seeing a need for stocking replacement 1" forks. Andy.