I have a Trek city bike from 2008. In that time I have stored it outdoors and I have not given it proper maintenance (and I deeply regret it's treatment). I'm now at a point in my life where I really want to invest in the bike, but I am afraid I have already destroyed it enough to make it not worth it - and perhaps I should just start fresh. Originally it was around $500, so not a high end bike - but not the cheapest one either.

Damage: Predominantly weather damage, however the frame is very solid as far as I can tell. There is rust on all the screws and there needs to at least have some oiling done on the gears. The gear shift is completely worn and needs to be replaced. The chain certainly needs to be replaced, a the tubes/tires need replacement as well as the seat. There is likely other damage/repairs that I will find out as I am fixing it up, but those are the ones most obvious to me.

Positives: I have never ridden a bike as fluid & well balanced as my bike. My husband recently got a brand new bike and as sleek and stable as it is, I can still ride my bike at twice the speed of his (and half the effort). Of course I could always go for another city bike, this one also has some sentimental value to me. I figure that if I did minimal replacements (New chain, new tires, new seat, & oiling up the gears) I could get it ride-able for about $100 - but I'm pretty sure there is more that needs to be done and I'm worried that by spending that to replace the surface issues that I'll still end up replacing the bike due to the inflicted damage.

I have little experience in bike repair, but I am mechanically inclined & ready to take on a challenge. Do you think this is something you would choose to repair, or do you think that as I take a closer look at the bike that I'll find it to be more trouble/expense than it's worth?

*Edit: I know there isn't a lot of information on this, and I assume many of you would respond "I would have to see the bike to answer this" - but as much guidance as you could give me would be wonderful.*

You need a hands-on evaluation by somebody who knows bikes. If you could find a non-profit bike co-op or club locally, maybe they could help you. Alternatively, you can take it to a local bike shop, bearing in mind that they are there to make a profit.

From the vague description I suspect if the OP brought the bike into a shop the bill would be more then $100. A seat alone goes for $30-40 for common low cost ones in a shop (and you can test ride them without a purchase usually). Also the Op should know that simple oiling won't compensate for wear and corrosion. There's some conflicting info given. Insides storage but suggestion of a lot of rust. If the bike was ridden in much rain then the internal condition is suspect.

Having said all that it's pretty easy to bring the bike to the LBS of choice and have them access for servicing. This estimate should be at no cost initially and assuming no need to do any actual disassembly to ascertain. Takes about 5-15 minutes. A small amount of life's time to get better understandings. If the OP has the motivation to try to do the work his self then all the more reason to establish a relationship with a LBS. As they will be the source of info, parts and general advice. I tell customers frequently to do as much as they can before they stop and fall back on the shop. At best they begin to understand their bike better. At worst they understand the shop's skills and abilities better. Andy.

I agree with having it looked over, but optimistically think it may be fixable. I don't know where you live or what the weather is like there, but I recently rescued a bike that had spent 6-8 years outdoors in Missouri. I had to pick out the dead vines that had intertwined themselves around the spokes. I repacked the hub bearings, loosened the spokes and put grease on the threads before retruing them and put on new tires, tubes and rimstrip and have a pair of nice wheels now. Since the frame is way too small for me I haven't done the rest of the bike yet. The aluminum frame will be OK. The headset still turns so I think it will just need new grease. I think the pedals and bottom bracket are/will be ok. Not sure about the derailleurs yet - need to look at them. But overall the bike was salvagable. So, I can't speak for you and your bike, but wanted to encourage you with a story from someone who has rescued a bike stored outdoors for a number of years.

I rescued a 88 Trek 1000 for my son early this years what was parked outside long enough for the tires to rot to threads along with the inner tubes, rim strips, and seat. Surprisingly all it need was tires, tubes, rim strips, a chain, seat, and brake cables. I cleaned and lubricated all of the bearings myself, and only had to touch the wheels up (truing).

Your existing bike has the advantage of being a perfect fit for you. Sounds to me like what it needs is the same thing that I did to the Trek for my son, with the addition of needing to replace the shifters. Are you sure they are worn-out? Are they sticking, or just aren't shifting right? If the bike was outside all that time, new shift cables (housings and inners) and adjustment might be all they need to be put back into working order. If you are forced to replace the shifters, your $100 estimate could be eaten by replacement shifters alone. Safer to plan on $150-$200 for parts in case the shifters need replacement.

First,what bike? Can we see some pics? Second,where are you located? If there are any co-ops/bike kitchens in your area,they would be the best place to go for an eval. Just from guessing over the internet,I'd say you prolly need a new chain,maybe a cassette as well. You will probably also need to lube or even replace some of the cables. The tires should be checked on the sidewalls for cracks. If they were left flat and/or exposed to the sun for the entire time,they could have deteriorated.

Really,pics of the bike would help us help you.

Bicycles wear out tires, tubes go flat, chains wear out. Those are all what are called consumables. Their replacement is normal. Finding a new saddle isn't such a big deal ether. I am not going to be using any saddle that comes from the factory with the bike.

The real question is does the shifters and derailleurs work. A If a little oil or rust busting oil makes the shifters and derailleurs work that would be a good sign. If the seat post can be raised and lowered that is another good sign. If the steering is also not seized.... you've got a nice project.

Take a little time (maybe after the holidays) and carefully clean the bike and oil the moving parts. If it functions.... try new tires, tubes, and new chain. If that doesn't "bring it back" you could always sell it on Craiglist and recoup your parts investment. And have the satisfaction of knowing that a flipper may get it back on the road for somebody.

The Questions you should ask is: Do I want to take on a project of this type at this time? Do I have the room and the funds to see this through? Can I do without my bike long enough to finish this all the way?

If you can answer yes to all these then you figure out how much you want to do. Will it just be a good through cleaning and lube with the need things replaced? Will it be stripped to a bare frame and repainted? once you determine how big it will be re-visit the earlier questions above and see if their still true.

If you decide to go whole hog and repaint, do that part first. After all the prep work and repainting, then start cleaning and polishing all the other parts. It will give you something to do while waiting for the paint to harden and looking at the pretty frame waiting for the parts will keep you motivated.

Good Luck

Since you really like the bike, it's safe to say the repairs and replacements won't cost the $500 (or more) that a new bike would. The actual cost will largely depend on how much of the work you can do yourself and how much you need to have done professionally.

Almost anything is fixable but that $100.00 figure will be unlikely. Cables, Chain, Seat, tires, tubes, dissassemble and clean then lube everything. You have to stop the already existing rust from continuing to grow.

I do not want to be discouraging: and I won't be.

Your TREK, if it cost 500 dollars in 2008 was then (and still is) a wonderful bike. And if it fits you and you like it, that is bonus.

My wife has taken some before and after pix of a few of the truly neglected much lower than yours low-end bikes she has picked up over the years and while it is true that you cannot turn a pigs ear into a silk purse, our experience has been that bikes are wonderfully resilient and you cannot do serious damage to a bike that was designed to give good service for 50 or 60 years by simple neglect. Unless the bike has been under water or seriously abused, the major component, the frame, is as good now (excellent) as it was when new. The bearings in the crank are good. The wheel set is good.

Pump up the tires. It sounds to me like your bike wants lots, but what it needs is a new seat and some lubrication.

I really doubt that the gear shift is completely worn out.

New cables for sure.

I have a $15 garage TREK 830 from 1989 that is one of my absolute favourites and my wife has a TREK 1220. Both of them came from garage sales and cleaned up beautifully .

It takes more than neglect to seriously damage a TREK. Yours will be good again.

Post a few sharp pictures of the bike.

Don't put any money into it until you give it a good evaluation. It bites to get half way through a restoration and find a hidden deal breaker. As mentioned, a bike co-op or club would be a big help. Photos would also help. If you can post clear close-ups of anything that is moves, or is supposed to move, on the bike, you can get more informed opinions from members here. You mentioned that your husband rides, have you or he done your own repair and maintenance work? Do you own bike tools like metric allen (hex) wrenches, wrenches, screw drivers, etc?

Articles About Bicycle Repair = good info

Once you know what you are getting into, you can decide if the value of the bike + sentimental value = the cost of repairs.

If your bike is as neglected as it appears from your OP, you may want to consider a complete service package from your LBS. This typically includes cleaning, lubing and adjusting of all working components, lubrication and adjusting of all bearings, and a complete safety inspection. Costs in my area run from $60 to $100 + parts if needed. If you are so inclined, a bike co-op will provide you with work space, tools and expertise for you to learn to DIY. You mention that the "gear shift is completely worn and needs to be replaced". How many miles did you put on the bike? Are you sure it is wear and not just lack of maintenance and neglect? Often shifters, cables and deraillers get sticky or out of adjustment and can be rehabbed with a bit of cleaning, lubrication and adjustment.

The more of the work you can do yourself, the better cost wise, but savings may be offset by the need to purchase tools and supplies to do the job if you don't have access to a co-op. Here are a few other tips to save a few $$$:

- Bike shops often have bins of nearly new seats that have been removed when customers upgraded. Most are lower end stock seats but are very serviceable. I've purchased several for $5-$10 for bikes I have rehabbed to sell or for other people and you couldn't tell that anyone had ever sat on them, and they may not have. Occasionally, you will find higher end seats that just didn't work for a particular customer and are being sold at a substantial discount.
- Bike shops usually have packaged higher end cable replacement kits on display but for a lot less money, you can buy bulk cables and cable housing from the shop. While you might not want these for a high end road bike, they are perfectly good for the vast majority of non-competitive riders. Beware of the extremely cheap, one-size-fits-all cable packs from WalMart or other big box stores. They are adequate to keep a low end kid's bike working but they are prone to rust and poor shifting/braking performance.
- Expensive inner tubes are not necessarily any better than lower priced tubes. Everyone has his/her preference, but unless you are looking for thorn-resistant or ultra lightweight tubes, the only things you need to worry about are size and type of valve (Schrader or Presta).

My advice, worth about the price of a cup of coffee.....

Take the bike to a local bike store, and ask!

1. How much for you to fix it? (buying parts and doing labor yourself)

2, How much for them to fix it?

3. How much to replace it?

Pick one answer, and go for it!

Since you asked it tells me that you kind of want to do it. If it was my bike, I definitely would.

Give it the Nike treatment - just jump in and do it. Over analysis is the path to nowhere. You'll probably make some mis-steps along the way but you'll be learning through the process so you'll be gaining more than just a use able bike.

Tires, chain, cogs are all consumables and I wouldn't really count that as extra in a repair cost. As a mechanically non-professional - in the same boat as you - I'd do a lot of "messing with" before resorting to the bike shop pros or buying a new bike.

I've brought a number of "found" and "neglected" bikes back to life. My general approach to troubleshooting is to start from what works, not what doesn't work. On the first go-around, "works" means it works well enough to move on to the next part, in pursuit of a bike that can be ridden.

Anything that can be gotten to move by dousing it in oil, working it back and forth gently, and waiting, works. The first time you witness this happening, will embolden you to finish the project.

When I was younger, I'd try to liberate rusted chains. It was usually possible, but today I'd save myself the time and simply assume that the bike will receive a new chain.

Once the bike can be ridden, you're in a much better position to assess what "bought" or "found" components are needed to make it pleasurable to ride. Some things like tires might be worth waiting to see where and how the bike gets ridden.

Since your bike is from 2008, you don't need to worry about whether it has aluminum rims, a serviceable bottom bracket, and decent brakes. Were I a betting man, I'd bet on your bike being closer to riding than you think.

If you can find a LBS where they are sympathetic to older, less expensive bikes, it's worth forming a relationship with them, and you can always thank them for their advice by buying your tools and parts there.

I routinely fix bikes such as this every week. It's nothing that some time, some dough, elbow grease, diet coke, and some Jimi Hendrix can't fix. You can google or youtube articles on chain replacement, tube replacement, and cable replacment and with your ambition you could do it yourself easily. The rusty screws would either need replacement or resurrection with a wire wheel on a drill. Sometimes other parts just need a good cleaning with some spray lube du jour and a toothbrush to make them both presentable and funtionally efficient. Good luck!

You guys really give me the motivation to jump in on this.

I researched and there are some good LBS and Coops in the next town over - and after the holidays I will make a trip down there and see what my options look like. I'm really excited- Thank you!

One more consideration if you need to decide if repainting is going to be part of the bike's rehab (is the frame rusty?): Repaint and destroy the resale value or let rust destroy the frame. Frame surface preparation is 90-95% of the work of painting, so degreasing, sanding any rough spots, and having the frame bead blasted to remove all traces of original paint is mandatory. Fresh paint doesn't want to stick to the high gloss original paint. You might consider asking a small body shop to prime and paint the frame with auto paint. Or resort to rattlecans, but I can tell you it's not as easy as you might think. There are lots of nooks and crannies on a bike frame. You need several light coats and several days or a week to dry when you're done.

If you are mechanically inclined, at all, a bike is a wonderful thing to work on. Only a few specialized tools are needed and they're cheap. The basic components are pretty easy to grasp just by studying them. All the instruction you're likely to need is available for free on youtube, or the Park Tools site, or Sheldon Brown's site, or here. Nothing you describe in your first post sounds troublesome. As noted above, a frozen/seized seat tube or steerer would be bad, but I doubt you've got either of those. Replacing brake and derailleur cables is routine as is the chain, as are tires.

Having a co-op to help is a great start. Enjoy!

Get a complete overhaul of everything, for around $150 it will make it feel good as new.

+1.

From a strictly monetary standpoint, no, it's not worth fixing.

HOWEVER, since you're attached to it, you know you like it, and you know it feels good, that alone adds a lot of worth to the bike. Even if you bought a new bike, you very well might not find one that fits you as good as your old bike. Your bike is in rough shape, sure, but it's not old enough to be in REALLY bad shape yet. You'll have to attend to the rust mitigation on the frame to fend off future problems, but it's almost certainly still quite solid. Other parts (consumables, as someone already said) can be replaced or cleaned up and reused (like derailleurs).

Fix it, keep it, cherish it.