hello,

I've got Tektro Auriga OEM brakes, the rear needs bleeding, Its kinda mushy
I've seen several of the Videos and even there download manuals, They all show loosening the
bleeder on the caliper, to connect a tube & syringe. OK fine, Mine does not have a bleeder, only a plug.
whats the process I should use?

thanks and Merry Christmas

Dave

Walking back into the Local bike shop with the bike.. Saturday..

<guess> the 2nd bleed screw is that plug ..

push more fluid thru the system till it flows out without bubbles (generic hydraulic brake bleeding)

No matter the system, all brakes (or any hydraulic systems) have to be bled from the very highest spot. That's for the obvious reason that air bubbles rise to the top of the liquids they're in. I can't speak for your specific brakes, but in many cases, I'll bleed systems by oily cracking the plug at the top and pressurizing the system forcing air out until I see fluid weep out.

Odds are you can bleed your brakes in a similar manner, Don't remove the plug, but crack it open so air or brake fluid can weep out. Squeeze the lever to pressurize the line, and when the air stops and fluid appears, stop and plug. Note that in some systems the plug needs to be closed before the pressure is taken off the lever, or it may draw some air back in.

Consider this : Take the caliper off The Frame, so you can hold it higher than the master cylinder-brake lever , to do as Francis suggests ..

Take the Brake Pads out first so oil overflow wont contaminate the Friction Material ..

NO -- do not do this.

You have reasonable assurnace that whatever air is there is near the top of the system, near the brake lever. Bubbles move very slowly in narrow hydraulic lines so if you invert the system it will be hours, days, or even weeks until the bubbles move to the caliper. This is fine if you plan to flush the line and replace the fluid, but not for a simple weep and bleed.

Instead, either "burp" the system via the reservoir, see video, or bleed it by cracking the fitting at the lever end. In short, to bleed air you have to work where the air is, or at least close enough that you won't be pumping all the fluid out before reaching the bubble.

I get no practice on those ..

my Discs: Mechanical BB7, My Hydraulics are Rim brakes. Magura. a closed system , no expansion tank , used 2 syringes top and Bottom .
to bleed after doing a Longer Hoses Replacement.

Old cars is my last hydraulic disc .. A '68 saab 96.

Then don't comment.

Daniel,which model do you have(Comp,Pro,etc)? All the pics I found show a bleed port. It is possible that they make a bleed kit with an adapter that goes into the port.

Here's a video from Tektro, specific to the OP's brake.

With some creative work, the OP can duplicate the key elements of the process without a bleed kit. Or he can try the burp method, or basic weep and bleed methods.

Thanks for all the responses, My bike has plain Auriga. The OEM version model 290/291

I was totally amazed to get an email back from Tektro. The lady told me she has been trying to get her guys to make
model specific video for these brakes. Just hasnt happened yet. She referred me to the following you tube video, It seems about right
Dave

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWkZ5ePn2hk