Painted over head races (+ stripped cranks: to replace or reinstall?)
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Painted over head races (+ stripped cranks: to replace or reinstall?)
Howdy folks
First post here so go easy
The fact that I’m posting rather ignorantly about a flub probably won’t help but I’ve tried to do my homework.
So I just did a DIY spraycan job on my primary/warrior bike (80s Gardin, model unknown) with VHT Roll Bar paint after completely stripping the original (hot pink) paint and grinding lots of nasty corrosion. I went DIY because it was cheap, I have the time now, and wanted to develop my skills, and used the VHT because I couldn’t get access to a ***, it was cheap, no prime, and sounded decently durable. Aside from some roughness and orange peel, she’s not looking too bad – from a distance – and hopefully it holds up. Maybe next time I will brush on marine epoxy or Hammerite or something since my first concern is protecting the ride through regular punishment.
--


Trouble is, I didn’t pull off the races from the headset or fork. They seemed pretty stuck on and I was eager to paint, so I painted over them but didn’t consider the need to mask them up.


I did mask inside the head tube and the threaded part of the fork, but not the races. I’m thinking this is going to a problem when I get bearings and grease back in there (especially that gnarly looking bottom race surface). I’m actually at a loss as to where the crown race is – I don’t have it in my parts pile but it must have been there before (?). So I guess I will have to slide one of those on after – right?
As for the paint – I’m thinking to mask outside areas and then brush paint stripper into the races sand the paint out. Might I also be wise to strip the paint off the area where the crown race sits on the forks, or better yet to take all the paint off the steerer, or if the crown race fits then just leave things as is?
--
Another issue to deal with before I reassemble is that I stripped the thread on the cranks (Shimano Exage 400 LX). The threads were in bad shape from previous removal efforts, so I pulled them with something very similar to this: https://imavex.vo.llnwd.net/o18/clien...mages/1246.jpg and then returned the tool to the hardware store after use. Given how rarely I need to pull the cranks, I’m kind of ready to put them back on and use a similar tool or tap them out larger next time (is this structurally damaging? I imagine you could keep riding on them but would just have a much harder time finding crank pulls that work in future), but I’m also thinking it might make most sense to replace them (and keep the chainrings?). If it isn’t clear already, I try to operate on a budget.
I do have knowledgeable bike buddies I’ll inquire with after the holidays, but would much appreciate the advice of a wise web community as well.
Thanks!
First post here so go easy
The fact that I’m posting rather ignorantly about a flub probably won’t help but I’ve tried to do my homework.So I just did a DIY spraycan job on my primary/warrior bike (80s Gardin, model unknown) with VHT Roll Bar paint after completely stripping the original (hot pink) paint and grinding lots of nasty corrosion. I went DIY because it was cheap, I have the time now, and wanted to develop my skills, and used the VHT because I couldn’t get access to a ***, it was cheap, no prime, and sounded decently durable. Aside from some roughness and orange peel, she’s not looking too bad – from a distance – and hopefully it holds up. Maybe next time I will brush on marine epoxy or Hammerite or something since my first concern is protecting the ride through regular punishment.
--
Trouble is, I didn’t pull off the races from the headset or fork. They seemed pretty stuck on and I was eager to paint, so I painted over them but didn’t consider the need to mask them up.
I did mask inside the head tube and the threaded part of the fork, but not the races. I’m thinking this is going to a problem when I get bearings and grease back in there (especially that gnarly looking bottom race surface). I’m actually at a loss as to where the crown race is – I don’t have it in my parts pile but it must have been there before (?). So I guess I will have to slide one of those on after – right?
As for the paint – I’m thinking to mask outside areas and then brush paint stripper into the races sand the paint out. Might I also be wise to strip the paint off the area where the crown race sits on the forks, or better yet to take all the paint off the steerer, or if the crown race fits then just leave things as is?
--
Another issue to deal with before I reassemble is that I stripped the thread on the cranks (Shimano Exage 400 LX). The threads were in bad shape from previous removal efforts, so I pulled them with something very similar to this: https://imavex.vo.llnwd.net/o18/clien...mages/1246.jpg and then returned the tool to the hardware store after use. Given how rarely I need to pull the cranks, I’m kind of ready to put them back on and use a similar tool or tap them out larger next time (is this structurally damaging? I imagine you could keep riding on them but would just have a much harder time finding crank pulls that work in future), but I’m also thinking it might make most sense to replace them (and keep the chainrings?). If it isn’t clear already, I try to operate on a budget.
I do have knowledgeable bike buddies I’ll inquire with after the holidays, but would much appreciate the advice of a wise web community as well.
Thanks!
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
paint is soft. Put the bike together with plenty of grease in the headset. Adjust and ride. You'll probably need to readjust a few times, and the headset may feel sluggish and had to adjust at first. But soon enough the movement will wear through the paint and the whole bearing will stabilize. Once you feel it has (it holds adjustments and doesn't feel as sluggish) pull it back apart, clean out the grease and flaked paint, then repack.
BTW- the paint not on the now silvery ball track doesn't matter. It'll still be there years later untouched.
You can reinstall the cranks, and use the same or other methods to remove them in the future. The damaged removal treads have no effect on installing, so the worst that'll happen is you'll have the same hard time removing them down the road.
BTW- the paint not on the now silvery ball track doesn't matter. It'll still be there years later untouched.
You can reinstall the cranks, and use the same or other methods to remove them in the future. The damaged removal treads have no effect on installing, so the worst that'll happen is you'll have the same hard time removing them down the road.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,373
Likes: 5,516
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Francis's advice is very simple and correct about he painted bearing surfaces. Or you could remove the paint with steel wool and solvent before assembly... Andy.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,687
Likes: 300
Another issue to deal with before I reassemble is that I stripped the thread on the cranks (Shimano Exage 400 LX). The threads were in bad shape from previous removal efforts, so I pulled them with something very similar to this: https://imavex.vo.llnwd.net/o18/clien...mages/1246.jpg and then returned the tool to the hardware store after use. Given how rarely I need to pull the cranks, I’m kind of ready to put them back on and use a similar tool or tap them out larger next time (is this structurally damaging? I imagine you could keep riding on them but would just have a much harder time finding crank pulls that work in future), but I’m also thinking it might make most sense to replace them (and keep the chainrings?). If it isn’t clear already, I try to operate on a budget.
I think FB has recommended chuck wedges for drill presses to remove stripped crank threads.
Looks nice. A bit cruder, but probably easier accessible is a "pickle fork", a tool used to split ball joint assemblies in the steering linkage of cars.
Unless you buy/trade/get given a used pair, cranks are generally sold with rings included. So not much point in transferring the existing ones. Not always possible either, given you have 4/5-bolt, and a couple of different bolt circle diameters to choose from.
If it's square-taper, do make sure you do them up snug and tight on reassembly to avoid mangling the interface.
#5
Steel is real
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 772
Likes: 18
From: Australia
Bikes: Custom - Record Vortex 8 spd Nexus & Mistral Le Mans 3 spd Shimano. Giant Kronos. Raliegh Single Speed
i would pop off the races and tap another set on from scrap bikes
as for the cone race on the fork - what andy said
as for the cone race on the fork - what andy said
Last edited by le mans; 12-29-14 at 05:33 AM.
#6
Mechanic/Tourist
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,522
Likes: 12
From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
If you are missing the crown race get a new headset. Educate yourself first about headset specs - races don't slide on - it's a press fit.





