Another Tire Pressure Thread
#1
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Another Tire Pressure Thread
Sorry. I can't seem to find time to search existing threads for my answer.
I just purchased my first set of fat slick tires - Schwalbe Big Apple 26" X 2.35"s to be specific. My first mistake was inflating them to 50 psi, at which they don't feel a whole lot different than the 1.5" Specialized nimbus tires they are replacing.
I've heard these can be run at as low as 30 psi. I am riding a 1996 vintage steel GT Outpost mountain bike and I weigh about 165 lbs. My rear rack carries about another 3-5 lbs worth of "stuff," I'd estimate. I will be riding 98% on concrete and the rest on packed dirt and maybe some rocks.
Can somebody suggest a good tire pressure without referring me to another "chart" or conversion guide?
I just purchased my first set of fat slick tires - Schwalbe Big Apple 26" X 2.35"s to be specific. My first mistake was inflating them to 50 psi, at which they don't feel a whole lot different than the 1.5" Specialized nimbus tires they are replacing.
I've heard these can be run at as low as 30 psi. I am riding a 1996 vintage steel GT Outpost mountain bike and I weigh about 165 lbs. My rear rack carries about another 3-5 lbs worth of "stuff," I'd estimate. I will be riding 98% on concrete and the rest on packed dirt and maybe some rocks.
Can somebody suggest a good tire pressure without referring me to another "chart" or conversion guide?
#5
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring, Open U.P., Ritchie Titanium Breakaway, Frances Cycles SmallHaul cargo bike. Those are the permanent ones; others wander in and out of the stable occasionally as well.
I used to ride Big Apples on my Fargo. I rode almost entirely on paved surfaces and I think I kept pressure between 40 and 50, definitely toward the higher side of the range but not at the extreme. Lower pressure was more comfy but slower when you wanted to go fast..
#6
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OK, let me rephrase this.
I'm trying to find a comfortable inflation pressure for these tires while avoiding under-inflating and damaging them.
Does anyone have any experience running these at the 30psi minimum, or am I just going to keep coming back here for AnkleWork's sarcastic bullsh-t?
I'm trying to find a comfortable inflation pressure for these tires while avoiding under-inflating and damaging them.
Does anyone have any experience running these at the 30psi minimum, or am I just going to keep coming back here for AnkleWork's sarcastic bullsh-t?
#7
According to the chart (yes I heard what you said about charts) It sez 30-55. So. Why do you think/ feel 50 was a mistake?
Truly, you're going to have to play around until you find what's right for you.
Truly, you're going to have to play around until you find what's right for you.
#8
OK, let me rephrase this.
I'm trying to find a comfortable inflation pressure for these tires while avoiding under-inflating and damaging them.
Does anyone have any experience running these at the 30psi minimum, or am I just going to keep coming back here for AnkleWork's sarcastic bullsh-t?
I'm trying to find a comfortable inflation pressure for these tires while avoiding under-inflating and damaging them.
Does anyone have any experience running these at the 30psi minimum, or am I just going to keep coming back here for AnkleWork's sarcastic bullsh-t?
#9
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Joined: Aug 2008
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Essentially, I bought them expecting a nice, cushiony ride in contrast to my 1.5" slicks. As I inflated them for the first time, I noticed that they felt kind of mushy to the touch, so I kept pumping until I hit 50psi. At that pressure, they didn't ride all that softly, so I was immediately disappointed. Several people commented that I should try running them at a much lower psi, but none of them professed to have any experience with this specific tire, so I set out to find someone who had.
I've seen the charts and I've read the sidewall. After 45 years of cycling, however, I've learned the hard way that, many times, the minimum inflation listed on the tire is a recipe for endless pinch flats, sidewall cracking, etc. So I thought, perhaps, someone could shed some light on what might be new technology allowing tires to be run at lower psi without damage, etc.
Of course, I intend to experiment, too, but what are these forums for if not to seek input from others?
#10
At 170lbs,on my Big Dummy,with about 40-45lbs of gear,I run my 2" BA's at 55fr/60r. Rides good. Below 50 on the back I can feel it get wallowy.
As I said in the other thread,you should play with the pressure to see where you like it the best. No tire can give both a plush ride and sporty handling.
As I said in the other thread,you should play with the pressure to see where you like it the best. No tire can give both a plush ride and sporty handling.
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C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Brompton S6L/S2E-X/M6L-X/S12 T Line


C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Brompton S6L/S2E-X/M6L-X/S12 T Line

#11
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Instead listen to your bike, and your body's senses. If I were you, I'd start at the "too high" 50psi, and drop pressure in 5# increments riding at each level a while to get a decent sense of how it handles, then moving on. When it gets sloppy, or you feel seriously at risk of bottoming out on hard bumps, go back up to the last decent level.
BTW- use a similar process to find the right pressure for front and rear tires, which likely will be different. Also, be aware that "best" pressure will vary based on road/trail conditions so don't lock yourself into the idea that there's only one best pressure.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#12
. . . I hit 50psi. At that pressure, they didn't ride all that softly, so I was immediately disappointed. Several people commented that I should try running them at a much lower psi, . . . I've learned the hard way that, many times, the minimum inflation listed on the tire is a recipe for endless pinch flats, sidewall cracking, etc. So I thought, perhaps, someone could shed some light on what might be new technology allowing tires to be run at lower psi without damage, etc. . .
#13
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From: Minnesota
Bikes: '09 Trek 2.1 * '75 Sekine * 2010 Raleigh Talus 8.0 * '90 Giant Mtb * Raleigh M20 * Fuji Nevada mtb
Now to your quoted comment: kinda thinking the forums are for educational feedback from other members, useless attempts at helping, self-entertaining responses to your posts, some fishing to see what kind of smart responses we can get, and a little fun trolling.

Ya, you did walk into that one from AnkleWork.
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FB4K - Every October we wrench on donated bikes. Every December, a few thousand kids get bikes for Christmas. For many, it is their first bike, ever. Every bike, new and used, was donated, built, cleaned and repaired. Check us out on FaceBook: FB4K.
Disclaimer: 99% of what I know about cycling I learned on BF. That would make, ummm, 1% experience. And a lot of posts.
FB4K - Every October we wrench on donated bikes. Every December, a few thousand kids get bikes for Christmas. For many, it is their first bike, ever. Every bike, new and used, was donated, built, cleaned and repaired. Check us out on FaceBook: FB4K.
Disclaimer: 99% of what I know about cycling I learned on BF. That would make, ummm, 1% experience. And a lot of posts.
#14
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Joined: Aug 2008
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One last comment. I'm from an era when you used to ask a question just for the hell of it, even if you already knew the answer. The point was to strike up conversation, maybe make a new friend, give some poor shy dude a chance to show off what he knows, or at the very least, pass some time while you're waiting for something more stimulating to happen. If the weather was more conducive to riding right now, I'd have been outside all afternoon playing around with different pressures and I'd have settled this hours ago. I chose, instead, to try to engage some other cyclists in a light conversation, and I guess that isn't the way things work anymore.
Also, I'm fully aware of how lame my question was, but at the same time, I've learned more in my lifetime from putting questions out there than I have from NOT doing so. Anyone who finds my posts silly or not worthy of a legitimate response is welcomed to ignore them. I don't think ANY of us need to be censored or ridiculed by any of the self-appointed relevancy police that troll these forums.
Also, I'm fully aware of how lame my question was, but at the same time, I've learned more in my lifetime from putting questions out there than I have from NOT doing so. Anyone who finds my posts silly or not worthy of a legitimate response is welcomed to ignore them. I don't think ANY of us need to be censored or ridiculed by any of the self-appointed relevancy police that troll these forums.
#15
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
One last comment......I chose, instead, to try to engage some other cyclists in a light conversation, and I guess that isn't the way things work anymore.
Also, I'm fully aware of how lame my question was, but at the same time, I.... I don't think ANY of us need to be censored or ridiculed by any of the self-appointed relevancy police that troll these forums.
Also, I'm fully aware of how lame my question was, but at the same time, I.... I don't think ANY of us need to be censored or ridiculed by any of the self-appointed relevancy police that troll these forums.
Just as you say others can feel free to ignore your question if they think it's dumb, you need to feel free to ignore any response that might otherwise bother you.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#16
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 199
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From: St. Cloud Minnesota
Bikes: 1981 Miyata 210, 1987 Miyata 615GT, 1990 Miyata CT3000, 1993 Cannondale M300, 1994 Cannondale Killer V, 1995 Cannondale R500, 2010 Cannondale F4, 2015 Framed Minnesota 3.0
Sorry. I can't seem to find time to search existing threads for my answer.
I just purchased my first set of fat slick tires - Schwalbe Big Apple 26" X 2.35"s to be specific. My first mistake was inflating them to 50 psi, at which they don't feel a whole lot different than the 1.5" Specialized nimbus tires they are replacing.
I've heard these can be run at as low as 30 psi. I am riding a 1996 vintage steel GT Outpost mountain bike and I weigh about 165 lbs. My rear rack carries about another 3-5 lbs worth of "stuff," I'd estimate. I will be riding 98% on concrete and the rest on packed dirt and maybe some rocks.
Can somebody suggest a good tire pressure without referring me to another "chart" or conversion guide?
I just purchased my first set of fat slick tires - Schwalbe Big Apple 26" X 2.35"s to be specific. My first mistake was inflating them to 50 psi, at which they don't feel a whole lot different than the 1.5" Specialized nimbus tires they are replacing.
I've heard these can be run at as low as 30 psi. I am riding a 1996 vintage steel GT Outpost mountain bike and I weigh about 165 lbs. My rear rack carries about another 3-5 lbs worth of "stuff," I'd estimate. I will be riding 98% on concrete and the rest on packed dirt and maybe some rocks.
Can somebody suggest a good tire pressure without referring me to another "chart" or conversion guide?
With your weight I don't see any problems with pressures down to 30 (possibly even lower) if you are more concerned with ride over speed. I have switched to Contis 1.6 slicks for the speed but think these are nice for a cushy ride.
#18
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Joined: Sep 2014
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From: St. Cloud Minnesota
Bikes: 1981 Miyata 210, 1987 Miyata 615GT, 1990 Miyata CT3000, 1993 Cannondale M300, 1994 Cannondale Killer V, 1995 Cannondale R500, 2010 Cannondale F4, 2015 Framed Minnesota 3.0
I guess you'd have to have followed my thread on this topic in another forum to have the full picture.
Essentially, I bought them expecting a nice, cushiony ride in contrast to my 1.5" slicks. As I inflated them for the first time, I noticed that they felt kind of mushy to the touch, so I kept pumping until I hit 50psi. At that pressure, they didn't ride all that softly, so I was immediately disappointed. Several people commented that I should try running them at a much lower psi, but none of them professed to have any experience with this specific tire, so I set out to find someone who had.
I've seen the charts and I've read the sidewall. After 45 years of cycling, however, I've learned the hard way that, many times, the minimum inflation listed on the tire is a recipe for endless pinch flats, sidewall cracking, etc. So I thought, perhaps, someone could shed some light on what might be new technology allowing tires to be run at lower psi without damage, etc.
Of course, I intend to experiment, too, but what are these forums for if not to seek input from others?
Essentially, I bought them expecting a nice, cushiony ride in contrast to my 1.5" slicks. As I inflated them for the first time, I noticed that they felt kind of mushy to the touch, so I kept pumping until I hit 50psi. At that pressure, they didn't ride all that softly, so I was immediately disappointed. Several people commented that I should try running them at a much lower psi, but none of them professed to have any experience with this specific tire, so I set out to find someone who had.
I've seen the charts and I've read the sidewall. After 45 years of cycling, however, I've learned the hard way that, many times, the minimum inflation listed on the tire is a recipe for endless pinch flats, sidewall cracking, etc. So I thought, perhaps, someone could shed some light on what might be new technology allowing tires to be run at lower psi without damage, etc.
Of course, I intend to experiment, too, but what are these forums for if not to seek input from others?
#19
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
So, let's see. How many Chain lube threads? or Chain length, stretch, or skip ones? How about all the repeat wheel building, spoke gauge, dish, offset rim, and whatever threads?
I could go on, and list dozens of topics that have been rehashed to death, so what makes a tire pressure question out of bounds, even if you think it's dumb?
Fact is, that probably 90% of the threads wouldn't exist if everyone invested the time and effort to look up prior ones. But if everyone looked up instead of posting, the number of threads would dwindle. Less new threads, means less posts and less views. Since BF depends on ad revenue, the last thing they need is everyone being diligent and looking stuff up, or responders staying 100% on point and not adding their 2 cents once the question is answered. it certainly doesn't need people veering off on tangents and generating tons of views of stuff that doesn't matter.
So, next time someone asks a really stupid question, or stirs up needless controversy, thank them for doing their part to keep this forum alive and interesting.
I could go on, and list dozens of topics that have been rehashed to death, so what makes a tire pressure question out of bounds, even if you think it's dumb?
Fact is, that probably 90% of the threads wouldn't exist if everyone invested the time and effort to look up prior ones. But if everyone looked up instead of posting, the number of threads would dwindle. Less new threads, means less posts and less views. Since BF depends on ad revenue, the last thing they need is everyone being diligent and looking stuff up, or responders staying 100% on point and not adding their 2 cents once the question is answered. it certainly doesn't need people veering off on tangents and generating tons of views of stuff that doesn't matter.
So, next time someone asks a really stupid question, or stirs up needless controversy, thank them for doing their part to keep this forum alive and interesting.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#21
So, let's see. How many Chain lube threads? or Chain length, stretch, or skip ones? How about all the repeat wheel building, spoke gauge, dish, offset rim, and whatever threads?
I could go on, and list dozens of topics that have been rehashed to death, so what makes a tire pressure question out of bounds, even if you think it's dumb?
Fact is, that probably 90% of the threads wouldn't exist if everyone invested the time and effort to look up prior ones. But if everyone looked up instead of posting, the number of threads would dwindle. Less new threads, means less posts and less views. Since BF depends on ad revenue, the last thing they need is everyone being diligent and looking stuff up, or responders staying 100% on point and not adding their 2 cents once the question is answered. it certainly doesn't need people veering off on tangents and generating tons of views of stuff that doesn't matter.
So, next time someone asks a really stupid question, or stirs up needless controversy, thank them for doing their part to keep this forum alive and interesting.
I could go on, and list dozens of topics that have been rehashed to death, so what makes a tire pressure question out of bounds, even if you think it's dumb?
Fact is, that probably 90% of the threads wouldn't exist if everyone invested the time and effort to look up prior ones. But if everyone looked up instead of posting, the number of threads would dwindle. Less new threads, means less posts and less views. Since BF depends on ad revenue, the last thing they need is everyone being diligent and looking stuff up, or responders staying 100% on point and not adding their 2 cents once the question is answered. it certainly doesn't need people veering off on tangents and generating tons of views of stuff that doesn't matter.
So, next time someone asks a really stupid question, or stirs up needless controversy, thank them for doing their part to keep this forum alive and interesting.
In point of fact I was reminding the respondents here of how the OP had shaped the conversation from the very first sentence. Please don't be offended that my approach is different from yours. I seek to answer the questioner, while you answer the question.
#22
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,660
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https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...re-thread.html This doesn't go wide enough, but you may be able to extrapolate a decent pressure.
#23
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,643
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Just a comment on your experience with minimum inflation. On my MTB I run my tires at pressures below the minimum recommended for some terrain with no issues. Maybe tires are better now. Back in the day I never went anywhere near the minimum I was always at the upper end. After reading and talking to people about the traction benefit of low pressure I have been running my MTB off road at much lower psi than before. I will say that speed does suffer a bit for traction, but it's worth it for not only traction but a bit less shock to my body too.
#25
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Joined: May 2013
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From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: Bianchi Infinito (Celeste, of course)
Drop down to 30 psi and see how they feel. I'm guessing 25/30 (F/R) is probably about right. My MTB has 2.35in tubeless tires that I run at 20/25 psi (30 psi min recommended, 160 lbs rider), without any issues. If you're a lighter rider, you basically have to go below the minimums, especially in front. Even at 20/25 the bike doesn't feel any slower than at 30+ psi, and the same for my road bike (75 psi on 23mm tires).
Pinch flats are more about riding style than tire pressure. I tend to be a fairly light rider, unweighting the saddle etc, and don't have many issues with pinch flats. If you're getting pinch flats, then definitely raise the pressure, but at some point you quickly start sacrificing ride quality.
Pinch flats are more about riding style than tire pressure. I tend to be a fairly light rider, unweighting the saddle etc, and don't have many issues with pinch flats. If you're getting pinch flats, then definitely raise the pressure, but at some point you quickly start sacrificing ride quality.








