Cone nuts
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2014
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From: Nashville TN
Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820
Cone nuts
Pardon a noob question but I went to service my 1995 mongoose alta and discovered that the cone nuts are bad. I have checked the front and have pitting on both nuts and suspect the same with the back. It has not been serviced in 20 years.
So being new to the whole bike repair stuff I was wondering if anyone could inform me of the best (or several options) place to buy cone nuts to replace them??
So being new to the whole bike repair stuff I was wondering if anyone could inform me of the best (or several options) place to buy cone nuts to replace them??
#2
Most bike shops should have some, although the variety has been increasing over the years.
Search for the hub type on E-Bay, or a general internet search.
Wheels Mfg has a number of replacement cones for stock sizes (but not necessarily oversized axles).
Search for the hub type on E-Bay, or a general internet search.
Wheels Mfg has a number of replacement cones for stock sizes (but not necessarily oversized axles).
#3
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 180
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From: Nashville TN
Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820
Most bike shops should have some, although the variety has been increasing over the years.
Search for the hub type on E-Bay, or a general internet search.
Wheels Mfg has a number of replacement cones for stock sizes (but not necessarily oversized axles).
Search for the hub type on E-Bay, or a general internet search.
Wheels Mfg has a number of replacement cones for stock sizes (but not necessarily oversized axles).
#4
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Cones (not usually also referred to by "nuts") are very shape specific. While some work around exists in their length, their diameters (small and large) as well as the curve of the ball track section are rather important to get right. So unless hub part numbers known and the supplier has a comparison chart actual in hand comparison is needed. Andy.
#5
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From: northern Deep South
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Take the old cones to the oldest bike shop near you on a slow day (January is good most places!). There's so many kinds you're unlikely to get an exact match, but there's probably some that will work in the dark corners of the old shop.
#6
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Joined: May 2014
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From: Nashville TN
Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820
This is all great information but from what all of you are saying it sounds like I might have to use the old cones do to the trouble if finding new ones.
#7
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Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
What "trouble"? Bring them to a shop and match them up. Most shops will be able to ID them and order some if they don't have them in stock. You want the shop to come to you?
#8
For stock steel QR axles, most fronts are 9mm, rears are 10mm. 9.5mm??? Bolt on axles may use non-metric sizes.
Anyway, measure the cones and buy the right ones.
If in doubt, try your bike shop as your first stop.
If you can identify your hubs, that can always help with the searches.
The races seem to be more durable than the cones, but you don't want to do anything that will damage your races, otherwise either the hub, or the whole wheel will need to be replaced... all because of a $5 part.
After getting some poor quality cones from major manufactures, I've started polishing all of my cones before installation. Just chuck them up on the lathe, and hit them with fine sandpaper for a couple of minutes. It works wonders. You could probably build a jig to do the same thing in a standard drill if you wish.
I've thought about restoring pitted cones on the lathe (cutting off a mm or so of length on each side and compensating with washers), but haven't tried it yet.
#9
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,339
Likes: 5,450
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Assuming a pair is being replaced, then the curvature may not be that important. It could be a problem if only one is replaced.
For stock steel QR axles, most fronts are 9mm, rears are 10mm. 9.5mm??? Bolt on axles may use non-metric sizes.
Anyway, measure the cones and buy the right ones.
If in doubt, try your bike shop as your first stop.
If you can identify your hubs, that can always help with the searches.
The races seem to be more durable than the cones, but you don't want to do anything that will damage your races, otherwise either the hub, or the whole wheel will need to be replaced... all because of a $5 part.
After getting some poor quality cones from major manufactures, I've started polishing all of my cones before installation. Just chuck them up on the lathe, and hit them with fine sandpaper for a couple of minutes. It works wonders. You could probably build a jig to do the same thing in a standard drill if you wish.
I've thought about restoring pitted cones on the lathe (cutting off a mm or so of length on each side and compensating with washers), but haven't tried it yet.
For stock steel QR axles, most fronts are 9mm, rears are 10mm. 9.5mm??? Bolt on axles may use non-metric sizes.
Anyway, measure the cones and buy the right ones.
If in doubt, try your bike shop as your first stop.
If you can identify your hubs, that can always help with the searches.
The races seem to be more durable than the cones, but you don't want to do anything that will damage your races, otherwise either the hub, or the whole wheel will need to be replaced... all because of a $5 part.
After getting some poor quality cones from major manufactures, I've started polishing all of my cones before installation. Just chuck them up on the lathe, and hit them with fine sandpaper for a couple of minutes. It works wonders. You could probably build a jig to do the same thing in a standard drill if you wish.
I've thought about restoring pitted cones on the lathe (cutting off a mm or so of length on each side and compensating with washers), but haven't tried it yet.
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 180
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From: Nashville TN
Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820
If you can identify your hubs, that can always help with the searches.
The races seem to be more durable than the cones, but you don't want to do anything that will damage your races, otherwise either the hub, or the whole wheel will need to be replaced... all because of a $5 part.
The races seem to be more durable than the cones, but you don't want to do anything that will damage your races, otherwise either the hub, or the whole wheel will need to be replaced... all because of a $5 part.
After getting some poor quality cones from major manufactures, I've started polishing all of my cones before installation. Just chuck them up on the lathe, and hit them with fine sandpaper for a couple of minutes. It works wonders. You could probably build a jig to do the same thing in a standard drill if you wish.
#11
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Minnesota
Bikes: '09 Trek 2.1 * '75 Sekine * 2010 Raleigh Talus 8.0 * '90 Giant Mtb * Raleigh M20 * Fuji Nevada mtb
I would take the cones, on the axle, and a couple of the balls to the LBS as already said on a slow day. Enjoy the hunt for the right parts and you will have a head start on the next fix.
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FB4K - Every October we wrench on donated bikes. Every December, a few thousand kids get bikes for Christmas. For many, it is their first bike, ever. Every bike, new and used, was donated, built, cleaned and repaired. Check us out on FaceBook: FB4K.
Disclaimer: 99% of what I know about cycling I learned on BF. That would make, ummm, 1% experience. And a lot of posts.
FB4K - Every October we wrench on donated bikes. Every December, a few thousand kids get bikes for Christmas. For many, it is their first bike, ever. Every bike, new and used, was donated, built, cleaned and repaired. Check us out on FaceBook: FB4K.
Disclaimer: 99% of what I know about cycling I learned on BF. That would make, ummm, 1% experience. And a lot of posts.
#12
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 180
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From: Nashville TN
Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820
Thats what I plan to do tomorrow. I have a couple places in mind. Thanks everyone.
#13
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 180
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From: Nashville TN
Bikes: 2011 Giant Seek 1, 1995 Mongoose Alta, 2002 Raleigh M80, 2014 Scott Metrix 40, 1999 Trek 820
Update>>
I headed off to a local bike shop that sells used bikes and showed the guy at the counter my axles and cones. He said the one on the back was not too bad as of yet and I was able to get two new cones for the front.
Thanks guys for all your help. As I said I am still learning all of this stuff. Three weeks ago I knew nothing about bikes and now I am changing out cones, so I am making progress.
I headed off to a local bike shop that sells used bikes and showed the guy at the counter my axles and cones. He said the one on the back was not too bad as of yet and I was able to get two new cones for the front.
Thanks guys for all your help. As I said I am still learning all of this stuff. Three weeks ago I knew nothing about bikes and now I am changing out cones, so I am making progress.








