Hey all,

Bear with me...

I recently decided to upgrade from my old and completely trashed bike to something slightly better so I went searching and bought a second hand road bike - this is where my trouble begins.

I bought a Wilier Triestina Lavaredo - everything seemed okay with it at the time apart from the chain looked like it needed replacing and so did the rear quick release (small amount of rust - apparently from storage).

It's been about a week now and I've notice that the cassette won't connect on the 7th gear so I started researching why this was and this is where I become very confused....

Bike: Wilier Triestina Lavaredo (apparently purchased new in 2011)
Crank: Ultegra SG-X (53/39-B) 10 speed
Cassette: Tiagra GS-HG50 (12/23t) 9 speed
Derailleurs: Tiagra
Shifters: Tiagra (Double)
Wheels: Fulcrum Racing 7

Ignoring the part that these are meant to be Campagnolo parts on the original model of bike - everything I've read on the forums says that the current parts (Ultegra 10s crank with Tiagra 9s cassette) will work together although some people say they don't. So I figure that the chain slipping past 7th is maybe due to chain stretch (derailleur looks to my novice eye to line up) so I rang my LBS and told the problem and they said it probably isn't the chain but if it is then there's a good chance I'll need to replace the cassette so now I'm looking online at cassette and reading about compatibility and....****....information overload...help :'(

Questions- Is the crank/cassette compatible? Should I buy a new cassette and chain? If so- which type? The original model of the bike had campy 10s cassette so can I put on a Ultegra 10 speed cassette/chain with Tiagra derailleurs/shifters? Or do I buy the Tiagra 9s cassette/chain?

I am getting the bike serviced next week but I'm trying to gather all the information I can beforehand so I can at least prepare myself for the disappointment of handing over more money for my failing to spot these issues before the purchase.

*weeps*

Replace because of a little rust? Really?

It does not seem to need anything except maybe a deraileur adjustment. Why not just get it done and ride?

Your crank doesn't care whats on the back. As long as your rear derailer matches the cassette your fine. It just needs to be tuned up.

And no, Campy and Shimano components are not interchangeable, but it doesn't matter what was "originally" on the bike. What you have on the bike now is what matters.

If you have Shimano components then replace with Shimano.

Also some close up photos would help a ton.

The parts should work together. To figure out what's wrong we need a better description. I can't really picture what "slipping past 7th" means. Is it shifting from 6th to 8th? The chain slipping?

Do you know how to set up your derailleurs? Have you tried replacing the housing and cables? A lot of shifting problems are due to cable friction.

What your lbs is telling you is that if your chain is very worn so as to cause dramatic shifting problems then yes, you may need to replace your cassette. Ordinarily, when chains are worn so as to need replacement, the cassette only needs to get replaced perhaps every 3 times. It also sounds like they doubt this is the problem, as do I. I would bet that your bike mostly needs new cables and housing, derailleur adjustment, maybe (maybe) the derailleur hanger aligned. All in all you're probably looking at minimal parts cost, mostly shop time.

As for cassettes, all non-campagnolo 9speed cassettes (Shimano, Sram, Sunrace, etc) should fit the spline pattern of your freehub, and be index compatible. There is a limit to the total range of gears due to the length of your rear derailleur's cage and its ability to take up slack, and also a limit to the maximum cog size. You can almost certainly use a 28 large cog, and unofficially as big as a 30 will likely but not necessarily work. With a standard double I would recommend a 12t small cog.

Enjoy your new bike. I'd bet your lbs gets it running smooth in no time.

Turn the barrel adjuster on the cable that goes into the rear derailleur counterclockwise a half turn and you should be good. If not, maybe another quarter turn or so.

I don't know how you figured shifting has much of anything to do with chain stretch, but you are stretching to conclude that. We need more info to start. I take it you mean that the derailleur goes past "7th" (the 3rd smallest cog). Does that happen when shifting to larger cogs or to smaller, or both ways. Is there any difference when on different chainrings? Is there any noisiness on other cogs. Finally, what is the shifter you are using? Thank you.

Buying used stuff can be problematic. They are often unloaded for a reason, and the buyer has to figure that out.
I pick up maybe 3 or 4 older frames each year for various pet projects and such. I'm finding about half are in need of derailleur hanger re-alignment. Being out of alignment can cause shifting problems.

I still consider myself a novice as well, especially about derailleur systems. I know how easy it is to get bogged down in all of the information out there regarding parts compatibility, etc. But I would start by focusing on the simplest and least expensive possibilities first, before assuming you need to replace your entire drivetrain. Have you tried adjusting your shift cable? Is your chain well lubricated?

The most your lbs can do with a telephone description is guess at the problem and solution. Just let the experts go over your used bike and give you a list of what has to be fixed. Then you can decide if it is worth the expense.

Absolutely false. Simply adjusting cable tension without confirming that the other variables (hanger alignment and limit screws) are correct is just asking for trouble.

For an example of this poster's reasoning and mechanical skills, see this link:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...erature-4.html

Hey, you try to adjust the rake of a carbon fork and report back with your successful efforts.

My advice here is just based on the simplest and most likely cause. I would bet he is talking about trouble moving up to the larger cogs. That's just common cable stretch. It's about 95 percent of the cases when someone reports a decline in shifting. Cables are like spokes: they don't tighten themselves. If he turns the barrel once or twice and it doesn't fix it, well, it's not really asking for trouble. Just turn it back. Then you can go about what you recommend -- see if the limit screws are right and last, check the hanger, which requires a special tool or a cobbler's approach.

You can go ahead and do whatever you like to mess up your own bikes, but you really should refrain from offering your ghetto advice to others.

What's wrong with advising him to try tightening the rear shift cable? I think Leonard Zinn would be right there with me. It's step one.

Not on a bike of unknown condition it isn't.

Edit:

Also, I have yet to see evidence of your 'successful' ruini... ... er... bending of that carbon fork.

to the OP, ignore the noise, how much research have you done?

Check out these two links and let us know if you have questions, there are many other places to get good or even better info
Let us know if you get stuck on some of the terminology or not understand what needs to be done
the combination of the expert advice from the Harris site and videos will be where you want to start, good luck

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...83640239,d.cWc

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...83640239,d.cWc

Listen, homes, in my brave world, a fellow can take action and try turning the barrel adjuster on a rear derailleur to see if that fixes a slow shift to the seventh largest cog. Join me someday if you dare. I'll have a burly stein of beer ready for you and some 1,200 watt sprints.

I will take you up on that - just keep your distance on that melted fork.

You can do this. Although a bicycle is a simple machine, the devil is in the details.

First step is to pull up the Park tool website and find the instructions for installing a rear derailleur. Disconnect the shift cable and do it all, starting with step 1, as if you were installing the derailleur for the first time. Pay attention to all the little details, like what position your shifter and chain are in when you reconnect the shift cable.

If that doesn't work, my next step is ALWAYS to check the alignment of the derailleur hanger. If you don't have the gauge for doing that, any average or better shop can do it for you. Expect it to cost you in the $15.00 to $25.00 range.

The bike via Google concierge https://www.google.com/search?q=Wili...hrome&ie=UTF-8

The Tiagra Specs were to keep the price down , Want to go Campag and got the wallet to back it Up then if the mechanics is not your talent

a Shop will fit everything tune it all Up For You.