Raleigh drop bar conversion
#1
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Raleigh drop bar conversion
Hey dudes I was wondering if anyone would know how a conversion of a Raleigh Misceo 2.0 to drop bars would turn out or if even possible. I'd get some professionals to do it for me and I know it'd be expensive, but I'm tired of getting beat up by headwinds and looking like a geek. Raleigh Bicycles - Misceo 2.0
#2
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
The cost all depends on what you're willing to accept controls wise. Bars and likely stem with tape of course are the obvious first items. Then there's the brake compatibility with the drop bar levers. If you use bar end shift levers or friction ones then a low cost drop bar brake lever that's compatible with the MtB disc brakes will do. If you want STI brake/shifter levers then add a set of compatible disk brakes. last is the saddle. As one changes the way the crotch interfaces with the seat sometimes the seat will be wanted to be different.
So with this list and guide one can add up the costs then add a forgot about * aspect cost, just in case. Andy.
So with this list and guide one can add up the costs then add a forgot about * aspect cost, just in case. Andy.
#4
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Well if you had previous drop bar experience and had the fit dimensions you could see how the changes (and ending up in the same place as that previous drop bar fit had been) go then try to guess what the handling changes will be. Or just do it and ride the bike. With a frame which has flat bars the top tube is often a bit longer then a frame for a drop bar. But we're getting into a gray area, how you'll handle the greater drop to the bars, how the possibly longer reach works for you and what you'll think about the resulting handling of the bike. I doubt any one will be able to really predict your opinion after the changes have been made. Andy.
#5
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Yep, that's got some long Top Tube for going drop bar. 56cm on the small.
If your reach is close to right as-is, you'll probably wanna cut stem length by 2-4cm and go for compact bars.
You could flip and slam the stem for free...
And if the bars are risers you could get flat bars for $20-$xxx
If your reach is close to right as-is, you'll probably wanna cut stem length by 2-4cm and go for compact bars.
You could flip and slam the stem for free...
And if the bars are risers you could get flat bars for $20-$xxx
Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 01-26-15 at 10:12 PM.
#6
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Trekking figure 8 bend bars will be an easier swap & by using the forward Bend of the bars and bending your elbows
you can bend over just as Low as in the bottom of drop Bars
& you will not have to buy new brake levers, shifters, a stem, and re do all the cables + Bars and all the Shop labor.
N+1 buy a "cross"-Commuter Bike already set up with drop-Road Bars like you now wish that one was.
you can bend over just as Low as in the bottom of drop Bars
& you will not have to buy new brake levers, shifters, a stem, and re do all the cables + Bars and all the Shop labor.
N+1 buy a "cross"-Commuter Bike already set up with drop-Road Bars like you now wish that one was.
#7
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From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
It's possible to convert the bike to drop bars, but it'll be expensive. Handlebar, tape, cables, housings, stem, and brake/shift levers are all definites. Brakes are a possibility. For new parts, you may be talking over $200 in parts alone. And after all that cost and work, it may not fit terribly well because of the bike's long top tube -- the bike was definitely designed with flat bars in mind.
There are a few much less expensive options you could try, like bar ends that mount to your existing handlebars. You've got the standard ones like these that start under $15. They don't drop your hands down, but stretch you forward a little bit so you're not as upright. And then there are drop bar ends like these in the $20+ range.
There are a few much less expensive options you could try, like bar ends that mount to your existing handlebars. You've got the standard ones like these that start under $15. They don't drop your hands down, but stretch you forward a little bit so you're not as upright. And then there are drop bar ends like these in the $20+ range.
#8
It's possible to convert the bike to drop bars, but it'll be expensive. Handlebar, tape, cables, housings, stem, and brake/shift levers are all definites. Brakes are a possibility. For new parts, you may be talking over $200 in parts alone. And after all that cost and work, it may not fit terribly well because of the bike's long top tube -- the bike was definitely designed with flat bars in mind.
There are a few much less expensive options you could try, like bar ends that mount to your existing handlebars. You've got the standard ones like these that start under $15. They don't drop your hands down, but stretch you forward a little bit so you're not as upright. And then there are drop bar ends like these in the $20+ range.
There are a few much less expensive options you could try, like bar ends that mount to your existing handlebars. You've got the standard ones like these that start under $15. They don't drop your hands down, but stretch you forward a little bit so you're not as upright. And then there are drop bar ends like these in the $20+ range.
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