Click with chain and rear derailleur
#1
Thread Starter
A man with a bike
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Prague, OK
Bikes: 2015 Diverge A1
Click with chain and rear derailleur
Still new to bikes so am learning a lot, and know next to nothing about fixing them, can fix a flat. Please forgive me if I get part names wrong.
That said I have a click in my back derailleur with the chain passing through the upper sproket. It is like the chain adjusts about every five link units, not sure what they are called. I thought it might be an issue with on of the teeth on the upper sproket, but I visually watched it rotate and it clicked again about half way through a full rotation. So my though is maybe the sproket isn't over far enough.
Would tightening the pully bolt move it enough adjust where it shouldn't click anymore? I ask now instead of just trying it while I figure out what size allen wrench I need. I need to go buy some that will fit in the space I have.
Also I a shimano claris 2400 rear derailleur if that helps.
Will continue to google, hopefully I can figure out enough to know what to google, heh.
Thanks
That said I have a click in my back derailleur with the chain passing through the upper sproket. It is like the chain adjusts about every five link units, not sure what they are called. I thought it might be an issue with on of the teeth on the upper sproket, but I visually watched it rotate and it clicked again about half way through a full rotation. So my though is maybe the sproket isn't over far enough.
Would tightening the pully bolt move it enough adjust where it shouldn't click anymore? I ask now instead of just trying it while I figure out what size allen wrench I need. I need to go buy some that will fit in the space I have.
Also I a shimano claris 2400 rear derailleur if that helps.
Will continue to google, hopefully I can figure out enough to know what to google, heh.
Thanks
#2
What type of shifters are you using?
The rear derailleur has an upper and lower limiter screw, usually takes a standard screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver. Adjust these so the chain is centered on the sprockets when it comes off of the derailleur. Be sure you don't give too much slack and throw the either the derailleur or chain into the spokes.
If you have indexed shifting, then you will also need to make sure the chain is centered on the other sprockets, this is adjusted with the cable adjustment.
The rear derailleur has an upper and lower limiter screw, usually takes a standard screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver. Adjust these so the chain is centered on the sprockets when it comes off of the derailleur. Be sure you don't give too much slack and throw the either the derailleur or chain into the spokes.
If you have indexed shifting, then you will also need to make sure the chain is centered on the other sprockets, this is adjusted with the cable adjustment.
#4
Thread Starter
A man with a bike
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Prague, OK
Bikes: 2015 Diverge A1
CliffordK Thanks. I played with it a bit, and I think I messed up something else going to have to mess with it some more. Going to need to play with it a bit more.
Ivolpe, Thanks will try that out as well.
Ivolpe, Thanks will try that out as well.
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
It's so much easier to diagnose stuff when it's right in front of your eyes.
I'd rule out a stiff link, because that would only happen once every 2-3 crank revolutions unless your chain was full of stiff links. It could be trim, or an upper limit keeping the RD from centering on that sprocket, but that would also mean that it would be hard to shift into it. So this is possible, but iffy.
Offhand, not seeing it, I suspect that the RD is too high and the upper pulley is too close to the sprocket. This could be confirmed by eye -- there should be 1/2" of daylight between the upper pulley and the sprocket, or 1-1/2" along the chain. You can confirm this without adjusting anything by shifting to the outer chainring. That will drop the upper pulley a bit, and if it doesn't skip anymore that would argue for this being the issue. You solve it with the B-screw adjustment.
If that isn't the issue, and/or if you've adjusted the limits, you need to reset them. Leave the lever in high hear, and shift the RD through the range by pulling the bare wire away from the frame like a bow string. Shift this way to the 2nd lowest gear, then to low. You want to back off the screw until you can almost cause the chain to overshift, then bring it back until you can still shift to low, but 100% bulletproof reliably not overshift. Test fresh by shifting to high, and shifting multiple sprockets to low. Retest 2nd low to low. Repeat the various attempts to overshift a number of times until you KNOW you can trust the adjustment to prevent overshifting. Then adjust shifting and trim bvia the barrel adjuster.
I'd rule out a stiff link, because that would only happen once every 2-3 crank revolutions unless your chain was full of stiff links. It could be trim, or an upper limit keeping the RD from centering on that sprocket, but that would also mean that it would be hard to shift into it. So this is possible, but iffy.
Offhand, not seeing it, I suspect that the RD is too high and the upper pulley is too close to the sprocket. This could be confirmed by eye -- there should be 1/2" of daylight between the upper pulley and the sprocket, or 1-1/2" along the chain. You can confirm this without adjusting anything by shifting to the outer chainring. That will drop the upper pulley a bit, and if it doesn't skip anymore that would argue for this being the issue. You solve it with the B-screw adjustment.
If that isn't the issue, and/or if you've adjusted the limits, you need to reset them. Leave the lever in high hear, and shift the RD through the range by pulling the bare wire away from the frame like a bow string. Shift this way to the 2nd lowest gear, then to low. You want to back off the screw until you can almost cause the chain to overshift, then bring it back until you can still shift to low, but 100% bulletproof reliably not overshift. Test fresh by shifting to high, and shifting multiple sprockets to low. Retest 2nd low to low. Repeat the various attempts to overshift a number of times until you KNOW you can trust the adjustment to prevent overshifting. Then adjust shifting and trim bvia the barrel adjuster.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.









