Question about threaded headset adjustment
#1
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From: SoCal
Question about threaded headset adjustment
I don't have much experience with threaded headsets. I bought a bike with one last year and never paid much attention until I recently decided it would be a good idea to replace the bearings and clean and put new grease in. After disassemble and putting it back together I have noticed that I can't tighten the locknut all way down to the Top race. There is always a few threads showing. Is this big deal?
There is a very thin keyed washer above the top race but no spacers. I do have a threadless spacer above the locknut for purely aesthetic reasons because I have a 1 inch to 1 1/8 adapter on it. Even though there are a few threads of the steerer showing I seem to be able to get good preload and I can't loosen the top race without loosening the lock nut first even though they don't make contact
There is a very thin keyed washer above the top race but no spacers. I do have a threadless spacer above the locknut for purely aesthetic reasons because I have a 1 inch to 1 1/8 adapter on it. Even though there are a few threads of the steerer showing I seem to be able to get good preload and I can't loosen the top race without loosening the lock nut first even though they don't make contact
#2
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Threads showing where?. It looks tight in the photo, and you don't describe a problem.
If the headset doesn't stay adjusted, remove the adapter and locknut entirely, and compare the height of the steerer to the depth in the locknut up to the stop at the top. If all is right, the locknut would be deeper than what's sticking out so it can't bottom against the top of the steerer.
If the steerer is too long, it might be because this headset has a lower stack height than the original, or that someone along the line removed a spacer, or maybe a reflector bracket or brake cable hanger. No big deal, add a spacer so that the steerer extends only about 7-8mm (less than depth of locknut) and get on with your life.
If the headset doesn't stay adjusted, remove the adapter and locknut entirely, and compare the height of the steerer to the depth in the locknut up to the stop at the top. If all is right, the locknut would be deeper than what's sticking out so it can't bottom against the top of the steerer.
If the steerer is too long, it might be because this headset has a lower stack height than the original, or that someone along the line removed a spacer, or maybe a reflector bracket or brake cable hanger. No big deal, add a spacer so that the steerer extends only about 7-8mm (less than depth of locknut) and get on with your life.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
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From: SoCal
Bikes: 89 Schwinn 754, 90 Trek 1100, 93 Trek 2300, 94 Trek 1400 (under construction), 94 Trek 930, 97 Trek 1400
The way I read it, you didn't replace or change anything except for the bearings, and there wasn't a problem before you took the headset apart.
Is that right?
Is it possible that you used replacement bearings that are smaller than the original bearings, or you installed the wrong number of bearings?
Is that right?
Is it possible that you used replacement bearings that are smaller than the original bearings, or you installed the wrong number of bearings?
#4
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
I don't see any threads. I see the keyed washer and the lip on the bottom of the lock nut. Either that or two keyed washers. I see no gap, I see contact.
#5
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From: Seattle
Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!
Looks the same as the one pictured on park's headset removal/installation page.
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Threaded Headset Service
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Threaded Headset Service
#6
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From: SoCal
I replaced upper and lower bearing with new caged bearings just because the bike is 25 years old and I don't know if they are still original so I figured replacing them for a few bucks and packing fresh grease is a reasonable thing to do...I wasn't necessarily having an issue before. It feels pretty smooth now. I am going to put some miles on it tomorrow and see how it feels on the road
#7
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
Yep. I think I am both crazy and very inexperienced with threaded headset assemblies. What looked like 2 threads from the steerer are in fact the keyed washwer and bottom of lock nut.
I replaced upper and lower bearing with new caged bearings just because the bike is 25 years old and I don't know if they are still original so I figured replacing them for a few bucks and packing fresh grease is a reasonable thing to do...I wasn't necessarily having an issue before. It feels pretty smooth now. I am going to put some miles on it tomorrow and see how it feels on the road
I replaced upper and lower bearing with new caged bearings just because the bike is 25 years old and I don't know if they are still original so I figured replacing them for a few bucks and packing fresh grease is a reasonable thing to do...I wasn't necessarily having an issue before. It feels pretty smooth now. I am going to put some miles on it tomorrow and see how it feels on the road
#8
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From: SoCal
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