igh - disc slop
#1
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igh - disc slop
I have a nexus 3 hub with centerlock disc mount
shimano rotor
I mounted the rotor to the hub and the hub/internet wheel build to the bike myself so error would not be overly surprising.
When I lock the rear brake I can push the bike back and forward about one inch before it locks out and skids the tire.
The rotor is not moving in the pads and I'm 99% sure the rotor is not moving on the mount.
That leaves some apparent slop between the outer hub where the mount is and the actual axle.
Is this just the nature of this combination?
If so, fine, I can easily live with it.
There is only an occasional minor 'clunk' when braking,
I'm only concerned if there is an error or defect that will get worse.
thanks
shimano rotor
I mounted the rotor to the hub and the hub/internet wheel build to the bike myself so error would not be overly surprising.
When I lock the rear brake I can push the bike back and forward about one inch before it locks out and skids the tire.
The rotor is not moving in the pads and I'm 99% sure the rotor is not moving on the mount.
That leaves some apparent slop between the outer hub where the mount is and the actual axle.
Is this just the nature of this combination?
If so, fine, I can easily live with it.
There is only an occasional minor 'clunk' when braking,
I'm only concerned if there is an error or defect that will get worse.
thanks
#2
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#3
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I would have bet that the slop wasn't in the mount but if other people are having exactly the same problem with fronts I guess I woulda lost.
I suppose I should be glad if it's not the internals of the hub.
I think I assembled this before I bought my torque wrench.
I guess the first thing to do is pull it apart and make sure its torqued exactly to spec.
#4
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
I have a QBP 'Problem Solvers' adapter to use regular 6 bolt discs , on my centerlock hub.
Works well Problem Solvers
note how the adapter can be tightened between 2 disc mount bolt holes
Bene Sugg : snug it up to the hub, before the 6 bolts attaching the disc to the adapter
Works well Problem Solvers
note how the adapter can be tightened between 2 disc mount bolt holes
Bene Sugg : snug it up to the hub, before the 6 bolts attaching the disc to the adapter
#5
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Well, since one generally only stops a bike when moving forward, the rotor should move, once, to its resting place on the first stop and not move any more unless you reverse the action. Maybe this is a non-issue. Unless you have reason to be concerned about it coming loose (which seems unlikely) I would not be too concerned.
Like the old joke, the guy tells his doctor "It hurts when I do this", doc's responds, "Don't do that".
Like the old joke, the guy tells his doctor "It hurts when I do this", doc's responds, "Don't do that".
#6
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I have a QBP 'Problem Solvers' adapter to use regular 6 bolt discs , on my centerlock hub.
Works well Problem Solvers
note how the adapter can be tightened between 2 disc mount bolt holes
Bene Sugg : snug it up to the hub, before the 6 bolts attaching the disc to the adapter
Works well Problem Solvers
note how the adapter can be tightened between 2 disc mount bolt holes
Bene Sugg : snug it up to the hub, before the 6 bolts attaching the disc to the adapter
Even if the splines on the hub are buggered the locking bolt may fix the slop issue.
The original wheel is sitting in storage with a 6 bolt rotor still on it.
The shimano centerlock rotor was so inexpensive that it seemed like the path of less resistance compared to adapters when I did the build.
#7
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Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Mine is on a German Schmidt dyno hub FWIW. SONdelux On a Bike Friday travel bike .
As I have Packed several Traveler's Bikes Up, to ship east after they crossed the Continent , the Centerlock on the front offers distinct advantages.
so when removing the front wheel to Go into a Box , the Disc is easy to remove to separately pack so the disc stays Flat .
As I have Packed several Traveler's Bikes Up, to ship east after they crossed the Continent , the Centerlock on the front offers distinct advantages.
so when removing the front wheel to Go into a Box , the Disc is easy to remove to separately pack so the disc stays Flat .
#8
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The reality is that any spline mounting system will have the potential for backlash. It requires an unnecesary amount of precision to prevent it. If you consider the application you'll see that the backlash isn't an issue because bicycles don't have a reverse. So the first time you apply the brake, the wheel will roll forward against the disc taking up any play and will stay that way forever. The backlash would only become a problem if you applied the brake and forced the bike backward against it.
That said, you do want enough side pressure on the disc ro keep is secure against small reverse torque loads, and if you find it moving, should consider either tightening the lockring, or adding a spacer between it and the disc, or using traction material between the disc and hub face. When you do that, partly tighten the lockring, roll the wheel against the braked disc to take up the backlash, then tighten fully.
That said, you do want enough side pressure on the disc ro keep is secure against small reverse torque loads, and if you find it moving, should consider either tightening the lockring, or adding a spacer between it and the disc, or using traction material between the disc and hub face. When you do that, partly tighten the lockring, roll the wheel against the braked disc to take up the backlash, then tighten fully.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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