2007 Haro Nyquist Three
12-29-06, 07:04 AM
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2007 Haro Nyquist Three
hey guys i was wandering what everybody thought of the 2007 Haro Nyquist Three. i was at the bike shop today and was looking at them. they look alrite with the rhyno lite rims, sealed cranks, chromo everthing and chrome back rim. they look and feel very nice and was wondering what everyone thought of them and what colour they liked the best: the root beer or the charcoal, i like the charcoal frame colour but i dont really like the reddish colour of the forks and bars. i dont mind the root beer frame and the other colour bars and forks. hows the quality of the 07 Nyquist Three it seems to have some pretty good parts, here are some specs:
Frame: Nyquist Design, 100% Cro-mo w/20.75" Top Tube & Euro BB
Forks: Full Cro-mo, 1 1/8" Threadless Steerer
Cranks: Haro 3-pc Cro-mo Sealed, 175mm Arms w/Euro BB
Sprocket: 36T
Freewheel: 13T Odyssey
Bars: Nyquist Full Cro-mo, 7.25" Rise
Front Hub: Alloy, 3/8" Axle, 36h
Rear Hub: Alloy Cassette, 14mm Axle, 48h
Rims: Sun RhynoLite XL Double-Walled (36h Black Front, 48h Chrome Rear)
Seat: Haro H-Crest
Pedals: Haro DX Alloy
Rotor: SST Oryg
Pegs: 1 Pair Steel
Colour: Charcoal or Root Beer
Frame: Nyquist Design, 100% Cro-mo w/20.75" Top Tube & Euro BB
Forks: Full Cro-mo, 1 1/8" Threadless Steerer
Cranks: Haro 3-pc Cro-mo Sealed, 175mm Arms w/Euro BB
Sprocket: 36T
Freewheel: 13T Odyssey
Bars: Nyquist Full Cro-mo, 7.25" Rise
Front Hub: Alloy, 3/8" Axle, 36h
Rear Hub: Alloy Cassette, 14mm Axle, 48h
Rims: Sun RhynoLite XL Double-Walled (36h Black Front, 48h Chrome Rear)
Seat: Haro H-Crest
Pedals: Haro DX Alloy
Rotor: SST Oryg
Pegs: 1 Pair Steel
Colour: Charcoal or Root Beer
12-29-06, 08:10 AM
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Not bad, but how much is it? You can probably get a bike with a cassette for the same price. Depending on the price, I would go with a Stolen.
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12-29-06, 08:21 AM
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For that price, I'd say go for it.
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12-29-06, 08:24 AM
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yep i was deciding between that and the dk six pack, but i figured this one has better rims, a front load stem (not top load), i can change the gyro to straight if i want because it converts to single cable after the gyro anyway and better bars and grips. i think when i buy the bike im getting a pryme helmet, probably a 30 tooth chainwheel and just dial it in from then
12-29-06, 08:30 AM
#7
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If you get a 30 tooth chainwheel, you should chain your back hub so you can get an appropriate gearing.
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12-29-06, 08:38 AM
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it should be alrte because rite now on my bike im running a 35-16 and with the 30-13 that would be like me running a 27-13 on my current bike. so i will be 3 teeth up on the front (or 1 on the back you can say) which will be alrite because it is fairly low gearing that im running now.
12-29-06, 11:02 AM
#10
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Originally Posted by Jono
it should be alrte because rite now on my bike im running a 35-16 and with the 30-13 that would be like me running a 27-13 on my current bike. so i will be 3 teeth up on the front (or 1 on the back you can say) which will be alrite because it is fairly low gearing that im running now.
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12-29-06, 08:45 PM
#11
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on my bike at the moment i run 35-16. so if i run a 30-13 that would be an extra 3 teeth on the front which would give me more top speed. so that would be cool because atm i am pedaling really fast
12-29-06, 08:47 PM
#12
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If you lower your gear ratio, you have less teeth meaning less speed but faster acceleration.
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12-29-06, 08:55 PM
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ok im goin 5 teeth down on the front and 3 down on the back to what im used to riding. if i ran the gear ratio of my current bike on the new one that would be like me riding a 27-13. so when i run a 30-13 that will be 3 teeth up on the front and give me more top speed
12-29-06, 08:57 PM
#14
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Anyone have any idea what he's talking about?
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12-29-06, 09:16 PM
#17
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Okay? So what's the problem?
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12-29-06, 09:18 PM
#19
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Okay, so?
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12-29-06, 09:55 PM
#21
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That's not a bad price in Oz. As far as how it will hold up, that depends on the rider, and maintenance.
12-30-06, 03:09 AM
#22
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yeh well every week or two i completely strip the bike down to the frame and clean and regrease everything and put it back together so it keeps on runnning smooth. the price exactly is $570 AU. i dont ride too hard and i wud say im an intermediate rider. i can 360, fakie, no footer, one footer one hander, disaster. air out, alley oop, manual and transfer. those are a few i can think of.
12-30-06, 07:49 AM
#23
Originally Posted by Jono
yeh well every week or two i completely strip the bike down to the frame and clean and regrease everything and put it back together so it keeps on runnning smooth. the price exactly is $570 AU. i dont ride too hard and i wud say im an intermediate rider. i can 360, fakie, no footer, one footer one hander, disaster. air out, alley oop, manual and transfer. those are a few i can think of.
12-30-06, 09:26 AM
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There's a bit of difference between AU$500, and AU$570. $570 is no bargain, that's what they sell for.
