ways to save weight
12-18-07, 05:13 PM
#2
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Drill holes everywhere.
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12-18-07, 05:43 PM
#4
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It's lightest without the rider, so as long as they stay off the bike will remain light.
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12-22-07, 03:05 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by BrandXComix
you could also ride naked, clothes have to weigh a few pounds at least
12-25-07, 11:50 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by live4muzic2
take out half the spokes.
12-26-07, 03:32 AM
#13
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reduce the weight of the rider, haha tis is the kind of thread I'd expect in the road bike section, not BMX
12-27-07, 10:48 AM
#14
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leave 5 spokes in now you have a light mag wheel.
12-27-07, 02:48 PM
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when you remove half your spokes, make sure that they aren't all from the same wheel, you'll want to do 18 from the front and 18 from the back.
We also have a party store in town that fills balloons with helium, they fill my top and down tubes for $1 each at the start of the season. You may want to check into that.
We also have a party store in town that fills balloons with helium, they fill my top and down tubes for $1 each at the start of the season. You may want to check into that.
12-27-07, 07:03 PM
#17
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Like buying any type of bike part you have to remember the rule of 2...
Cheap
Light
Strong
You never get all 3. You have to choose 2.
If you buy lightweight parts that are also strong, you are going to PAY for them.
Aside from drilling or taking off your brakes, the only way to save weight is to buy new stuff...
A cheap way to loose a pound and-a-half...
Lets say you're running budget Kenda street tires that weigh in at 2.75 lbs for the pair.
For $80 you could shave 1.5 lbs of weight in the most important place (the wheels)
by switching to KHE street tires.
Forks...Let's say you're running a set of 3.6 lb S&M Ditchforks from 1998.
For $100 you could swap them for Eastern Ultra Slim forks and shave 1.6 lbs.
Your forks may not be as heavy as my old ones were, so there may be somewhere else you can shave more weight for less money.
Wheels: There is a local bike shop that sells primo mix cassette rear/primo front laced to primo balance rims /w double butted spokes. Their price is very cheap.
If you PM me I'll give you the contact info and price. I haven't weighed this wheelset, but I estimate it comes in around 4.5 lbs. Depending on your current setup, you could shave significant weight by changing the wheels.
Obviously there's the frame...but that gets expensive.
I had an S&M next-gen dirtbike that weighed 7.8 lbs.
I was lucky to find a used Metal dagger for $50.
That frame is 6 lbs which is heavy by current standards.
Compared to my old setup: I was able to cut out just 2.8 lbs on my new build with a used frame and a new federal fork.
With my new build, I replaced Frame, fork, wheels, and chainwheel.
I Shaved 5 lbs total off my old setup, for about $450 in new parts.
Cheap
Light
Strong
You never get all 3. You have to choose 2.
If you buy lightweight parts that are also strong, you are going to PAY for them.
Aside from drilling or taking off your brakes, the only way to save weight is to buy new stuff...
A cheap way to loose a pound and-a-half...
Lets say you're running budget Kenda street tires that weigh in at 2.75 lbs for the pair.
For $80 you could shave 1.5 lbs of weight in the most important place (the wheels)
by switching to KHE street tires.
Forks...Let's say you're running a set of 3.6 lb S&M Ditchforks from 1998.
For $100 you could swap them for Eastern Ultra Slim forks and shave 1.6 lbs.
Your forks may not be as heavy as my old ones were, so there may be somewhere else you can shave more weight for less money.
Wheels: There is a local bike shop that sells primo mix cassette rear/primo front laced to primo balance rims /w double butted spokes. Their price is very cheap.
If you PM me I'll give you the contact info and price. I haven't weighed this wheelset, but I estimate it comes in around 4.5 lbs. Depending on your current setup, you could shave significant weight by changing the wheels.
Obviously there's the frame...but that gets expensive.
I had an S&M next-gen dirtbike that weighed 7.8 lbs.
I was lucky to find a used Metal dagger for $50.
That frame is 6 lbs which is heavy by current standards.
Compared to my old setup: I was able to cut out just 2.8 lbs on my new build with a used frame and a new federal fork.
With my new build, I replaced Frame, fork, wheels, and chainwheel.
I Shaved 5 lbs total off my old setup, for about $450 in new parts.
Last edited by kwhord; 12-28-07 at 07:47 PM.
01-23-08, 10:14 AM
#19
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to save weight but still be safe:
-cut bars down on both sides
-switch to a 3/8th for and axle
-run 36h instead of 48h (36 spokes)
-run twisted pc pedals and ody. par ends
-cut down seat post, or run pivotal
-run micro gearing
-cut bars down on both sides
-switch to a 3/8th for and axle
-run 36h instead of 48h (36 spokes)
-run twisted pc pedals and ody. par ends
-cut down seat post, or run pivotal
-run micro gearing
01-23-08, 05:25 PM
#20
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-My 1664 post and Aitken seat are lighter AND cheaper then damn near any pivotal set ups.
-PC pedals aren't much lighter then a good set of metal pedals, and they suck supreme amounts of ass when they're wet.
-I like my 48H in the rear thankyouverymuch.
-PC pedals aren't much lighter then a good set of metal pedals, and they suck supreme amounts of ass when they're wet.
-I like my 48H in the rear thankyouverymuch.
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"the bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began...there was Cowboy Neal at the wheel of a bus to never-ever land."
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01-23-08, 05:59 PM
#21
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I doubt it's lighter than a Stump/Kink combo. That's pretty hard to beat. I'd buy some PC's right now if they came in the Animal purple.
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01-23-08, 09:21 PM
#22
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4oz heavier, and don't forget my seat isn't slammed so stump=not so great for me.
Bottom of the line is, regular seats and posts are just fine. No reason to get a whole new setup to save a few ounces.
Bottom of the line is, regular seats and posts are just fine. No reason to get a whole new setup to save a few ounces.
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"the bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began...there was Cowboy Neal at the wheel of a bus to never-ever land."
"the bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began...there was Cowboy Neal at the wheel of a bus to never-ever land."
01-24-08, 07:23 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by wethepeople
It's lightest without the rider, so as long as they stay off the bike will remain light.
01-24-08, 07:29 PM
#24
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1. Lose the pegs.
2. Hack off the bottom section of your seatpost (if you don't intend to raise it again).
3. Slime-tubes rock, but when trying to save weight, stay away from 'em.
4. If you're desperate, take off the brakes and use the good ol' foot-on-the-the-back-tire.
5. Ditch any reflectors you have, but not if you plan to go street riding in the middle of the night.
2. Hack off the bottom section of your seatpost (if you don't intend to raise it again).
3. Slime-tubes rock, but when trying to save weight, stay away from 'em.
4. If you're desperate, take off the brakes and use the good ol' foot-on-the-the-back-tire.
5. Ditch any reflectors you have, but not if you plan to go street riding in the middle of the night.
01-24-08, 07:37 PM
#25
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I always ride street at night, thats the best time.
And do you see anything reflective on this?
And do you see anything reflective on this?
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"the bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began...there was Cowboy Neal at the wheel of a bus to never-ever land."
"the bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began...there was Cowboy Neal at the wheel of a bus to never-ever land."
