Building the first BMX..
#1
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From: Finland
Building the first BMX..
I've been thinking about getting a BMX for fooling around a bit, mostly for street/park, but maybe looking into racing a bit later.. So today I saw this 21,5 TT frame on discount, that should fit my 6' frame, and thought why not rescue the poor thing
I'm ok in the shop, due to maintaining my MTB and road bike, but wanted to ask if there's something that's different with a BMX build? Also, as an adult guy at around 170 lbs, is there something I should know about components, are there things I should avoid?
I'm ok in the shop, due to maintaining my MTB and road bike, but wanted to ask if there's something that's different with a BMX build? Also, as an adult guy at around 170 lbs, is there something I should know about components, are there things I should avoid?
#2
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From: Central Michigan University/ GR, MI
Bikes: BMX, fixed gear
20.5 is going to be a bit small for you. You should look at something like a 21 up to a 21.25. As far as things to avoid, Eastern was always bunk in my experience. Although I haven't seen/handled any of their stuff in a few years.
As for maintenance and all that, its basically all the same. Bikes is bikes. The only thing that you might find different is the BB cluster/assembly, because the bearings are larger, and the cranks are a bit different than something for road or MTB use.
As for maintenance and all that, its basically all the same. Bikes is bikes. The only thing that you might find different is the BB cluster/assembly, because the bearings are larger, and the cranks are a bit different than something for road or MTB use.
#3
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20.5 is going to be a bit small for you. You should look at something like a 21 up to a 21.25. As far as things to avoid, Eastern was always bunk in my experience. Although I haven't seen/handled any of their stuff in a few years.
As for maintenance and all that, its basically all the same. Bikes is bikes. The only thing that you might find different is the BB cluster/assembly, because the bearings are larger, and the cranks are a bit different than something for road or MTB use.
As for maintenance and all that, its basically all the same. Bikes is bikes. The only thing that you might find different is the BB cluster/assembly, because the bearings are larger, and the cranks are a bit different than something for road or MTB use.
#4
We win all charity rides
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From: Central Michigan University/ GR, MI
Bikes: BMX, fixed gear
I read it wrong. I saw a 0 instead of a 1. Had a moment of stoopit. In my defense though, why the hell would you use a comma instead of a period for that?
#5
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From: Finland
Last edited by proileri; 04-06-13 at 05:34 AM.
#7
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From: Finland
#10
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Stuff is still in the mail, unfortunately! That's ok, since the streets here in the "European Alaska" still have some ice, and I've been busy getting my other bikes ready.
I got the 21.5" frame here, and I noticed that they're still blowing out last year's models, so I have one bike with a 20.8" frame incoming I can use to scavenge the parts. Seems to use a different BB, but otherwise should be good.
Notice that the numbers are now written in "US" so you guys can understand them! I don't mind the punctuation, but if we only could get you to use the metric system..
I got the 21.5" frame here, and I noticed that they're still blowing out last year's models, so I have one bike with a 20.8" frame incoming I can use to scavenge the parts. Seems to use a different BB, but otherwise should be good.
Notice that the numbers are now written in "US" so you guys can understand them! I don't mind the punctuation, but if we only could get you to use the metric system..
Last edited by proileri; 04-07-13 at 03:47 AM.
#12
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From: Finland
Last edited by proileri; 04-08-13 at 03:14 AM.
#14
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The frame is a Redline Proline alu racing frame, and the complete is a Stolen Score freestyle full cromo.
It's my first BMX, no idea what kind of stuff I'm going to do with the bike at the moment, so two different frames, lol. I'll have to take it out, and to check the local community for what's up. Racing is probably not big around here, but trails might be.
It's my first BMX, no idea what kind of stuff I'm going to do with the bike at the moment, so two different frames, lol. I'll have to take it out, and to check the local community for what's up. Racing is probably not big around here, but trails might be.
#15
We win all charity rides
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From: Central Michigan University/ GR, MI
Bikes: BMX, fixed gear
Definitely do NOT take a racing frame down trails. Or ride street with it. Or take it to a skatepark. The score will be able to handle all of that, but that Redline should go nowhere except the track. Also, since you bought a complete that was built for those things, a handful of the parts from the Stolen won't be able to be transferred over.
#16
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From: Finland
Definitely do NOT take a racing frame down trails. Or ride street with it. Or take it to a skatepark. The score will be able to handle all of that, but that Redline should go nowhere except the track. Also, since you bought a complete that was built for those things, a handful of the parts from the Stolen won't be able to be transferred over.
In the aluminium frame front, is it really that poor, considering alu frames are used in MTBs? Are there some other specifics in addition to the frame that are usually different between racing and freestyle bikes?
Last edited by proileri; 04-10-13 at 02:31 AM.
#17
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From: Central Michigan University/ GR, MI
Bikes: BMX, fixed gear
Geometry is different, so they handle differently than one another. And while downhill bikes do take quite a bit of abuse, its usually in ways that BMX bikes don't, and the stresses on the frame are a lot different. Besides, the dropouts are smaller in diameter than a frame built for the streets/park, which won't hold up to the abuse as well either.
#18
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From: Finland
Geometry is different, so they handle differently than one another. And while downhill bikes do take quite a bit of abuse, its usually in ways that BMX bikes don't, and the stresses on the frame are a lot different. Besides, the dropouts are smaller in diameter than a frame built for the streets/park, which won't hold up to the abuse as well either.
Thanks for advice SR, I can always take the 20.8" steel frame out first and see what I'll use the bike for, then decide what to do regarding the frames.
Last edited by proileri; 04-11-13 at 10:16 AM.
#19
We win all charity rides
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From: Central Michigan University/ GR, MI
Bikes: BMX, fixed gear
Yeah, obviously steel is better for taking a huge amounts of hits, but I was thinking alu might be fine for a bit smoother riding. I think the worst abuse for aluminum frame might be direct frame knocks, as it's softer than steel. Also, landing big jumps hard would probably eat up the rear dropouts.
Thanks for advice SR, I can always take the 20.8" steel frame out first and see what I'll use the bike for, then decide what to do regarding the frames.
Thanks for advice SR, I can always take the 20.8" steel frame out first and see what I'll use the bike for, then decide what to do regarding the frames.





