The point of the "V" hitting the road first is what I perceive to be correct, based on the thinking that hydroplaning is minimized with that orientation. The unidirectional summer tires and winter tires on my car have that orientation. For bicycle tires, the Panaracer Paselas have a direction of rotation arrow on the sidewall, that also has the point of the "V" hitting the road first. I do think that putting tires on backwards is a bad idea, revealing carelessness. John Allen seems to be saying there is no practical effect on a bicycle tire, especially for road. He may be correct from an engineering/performance POV, which I value, but I'll continue to pay attention to directionality on tires I install.

Well, it is a free county, you can perceive and pay attention to what ever you want.

But...looking at the tire tread on you car, how does the distance between the grooves compare to the width of your bicycle tire? How far does the water have to move to get to the edge of your bicycle tire and not be under it anymore? Does the water under your car tire have to move further to get to a groove?

As to not hijack this thread further, if any one wants to read further: Tires with Smooth Tread by Jobst Brandt

Thanks for the info on the tire tread. I was actually wondering how to tell which way is correct and couldn't find much info on it.

I didn't install these tires. No idea who did. Could have been the owner or a bike shop--who knows. I do pay attention to the directional arrow with new tires. With these, I'll probably just ride them as is until they wear out, I suppose, and then replace.

So did you fix the bike up and keep it?

his last post was in November of 2017

his last post was in November of 2017
That is why I asked the question, hoping he might say what he actually did. Many who visit forums are often just lurkers, shy beasts.

If you quote a post of theirs they'll get a notification.

Thanks for asking. In the end I didn't keep it. I did some work on it and polished it up and sold it with its Brooks saddle (couldn't bear separating them) at a very low and reasonable price to a gentleman who collects and works on vintage bikes. He was overjoyed to have it. I sometimes regret selling it, but not really, because I know it went to someone who would appreciate it. I have two other bikes and live in an apartment, and with me it was taking up space and gathering dust, sadly. It went to the best home I could find for it. Beautiful bike!

The first "performance" bike I ever bought was the green Super Course, still have very fond memories of that bike. I bought it in Chicago in 69. I bought a Schwinn two years later that was double the price and it was a piece of junk. Schwinn is one of those companies that if their offices ever caught fire, I'd be there playing the violin in celebration.

Check the front wheel dish. A shop can do pretty easily. That written, these were known to have... "wide" tolerances at the fork tips, I would have the fork checked with "H" tools too, differing leg lengths are not uncommon, when we assembled them when new, often had to file them into alignment. I would ditch the neon sign, "steal me" seat bolt quick release...

If it were mine, do the above, buy one new brake and one new shift cable, make the rear cables the front, the new cables the rear. grease the cables as they run throught the cable housings.
Move the crank arms out so the spindle is not protruding and catching my ankle as I pedaled. repack the hubs and bottom bracket. (I suspect the bottom bracket may have been done)