WSUcougs23

TREK 1200 Race Bike

Don't know the year on this, and would like some help determining how much I should actually pay for this bike. Just a rough guess, I would say it's worth $200-$250, but this person is listing it for $600. Can I get anyone else's opinion on this?

Thanks!

RoadGuy

Selling prices vary regionally.

And, the bike looks like it's in great shape. But photos can be deceiving. It looks like it's either a 56cm or 58cm. How tall are you?

Down here in SoCal, a bike like that goes for around $250-$300. There's a Trek 1200 for $95 right now, located about 15 miles from here. There are also about four to five Trek 1220s (54cm-60cm) priced between $150-$300 within 50 miles of here. Shipping is expensive, but if the $95 bike would fit you, you could buy it and have it shipped, and still have less than $200 total in it.

$600 seems to be awful high to me, and I'd keep looking. But, people usually overprice their items for sale, either because they don't realize how big a bite depreciation takes, or they haven't done their research, OR they paid a lot, and are not ready to lose that much at sale.

If you think the bike will fit you, contact the Seller, and tell him you're interested, but his price to so far out of bounds that you don't even want to take the time to come see it, unless he's going to be flexible.

WSUcougs23

I took your advice and cancelled the test ride I was gonna do. I'm 6'2" and for some reason I'm having a really hard time finding a 58-60 cm road bike for a decent price in WA. I'm not in love with the bike or anything, and would like something newer if I'm gonna spend that much money.

I think you're right on the money thinking they are not ready to part with their bike. They said in the CL post that they've put a lot of miles on the bike.

Thanks for the advice. I'll keep looking.

Btw, where's a good place to buy used bikes besides CL?

RoadGuy

CL is probably the place that you can find the most local bikes.

If you trust eBay, you can also find lots of bikes on there, but in most cases, you won't be able to see the bikes before buying them.

I think the $95 1200 down here is a 58cm-60cm. You can go to the VintageTrek or Bikepedia websites to figure old how old a Trek bike is in many cases. I would not worry about the age of a Trek bike (with the exception of carbon fiber bikes, which I would not recommend for a beginner), they seem to age very well.

The bike I'm putting together for my 30 year old son is a 88 Trek 1000. When I got it, the tires, tubes, rim strips, seat, and handlebar wrap had all rotted off. But the frame, fork, wheels, brakes, derailleurs, handlebars, seatpost, handlebar stem, and shifters were all fine. The only component that I had to replace was one brake lever, because pieces were missing (were removed before I got the bike).

Steve Whitlatch 

I have a very nice Trek 1400. Updated wheels and Tiagra Brifters. If I was to sell this bike I would ask $450. There are lots of nice bikes. Be patient.

Steve Whitlatch 

I would also add, download some vintage catalogs, read a bit on this forum. When a great bike for a great price pops up, you will not have time to check on a forum to see if its a good price. You will need to move fast.

WSUcougs23

This bike looks 100% better than that CL add too...

WSUcougs23

I would rather pay a little more for a new bike that I knew was in good condition. I like that they are reliable bikes, but I think there's something to be said about technology 10 years apart (1990 vs 2000).

RoadGuy

I've come across several of the newer (200X) SL series aluminum frame bikes that are cracked at the bottom bracket. Personally, I'll stick to the older US made frames. The bonded aluminum frames were phased out after 1998, and for a short time after that frames were US made, and TIG welded. After that came the SL series that were made offshore.

The SL series frames are incredibly light for aluminum. But, I just parted out a Trek 8000 mountain bike (model year 2000). It was an SL series TIG welded aluminum frame, and it cracked extensively around the bottom bracket. I suspect that Trek reached the point that they were building too light, and frame strength and longevity has suffered as a result.

The current series of SL aluminum frames are built offshore, and from what I remember, start at around $800-$1000. I'd rather get an older, stronger, US made bike or frame, and use some of the money I saved to buy some new components as necessary. Personally, I still can't see any need for more than seven gears on the rear cassette, and the older shifters and the chains used with them are more reliable than some of the new stuff, which is getting the weight reduction program that has yielded aluminum frames that are so light that they don't last. The fact is 6, 7, 8 speed type chains will outlast the narrower, lighter, chains required by 9, 10, 11 speed drivetrains. And STI Brifters are heavier (1/2 to 1lb heavier) than DT shifters.

I find it interesting that my US made 1989 Schwinn 754 at 20 pounds with DT shifters, weighed 2-3 pounds less (that was before I installed a lighter Specialized alloy front fork on the 754, making it even lighter) than my US made 1994 Trek 2300 Composite (about 23 pounds) and 1997 Trek 1400 (about 21.5 pounds) aluminum bikes. Although, admittedly, a significant amount of the weight difference is the Brifters on the 2300 and the 1400.

Newer and more expensive, is not necessarily lighter, faster, or better.

But if you want newer, I've spotted a fair number of 2004-2007 Trek aluminum bikes offered on CL down here for between $250-$500.