How do you wrap bar tape around old Mafac brake levers?
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How do you wrap bar tape around old Mafac brake levers?
I was looking at my Peugeot project and noticed that the hoods aren't exactly something that I can pull over the handles and wrap bar tape underneath like modern levers. They're the full hoods, not the half hoods. Would it be better to just tape the bars with the handlebar rings in place and just smash the tape down when I install the levers? Will the levers stay steady when I apply the brakes or will i feel play in the connection to the bars? I'll be using cork tape for the bars. The hoods are pretty cracked around the edges and I didn't want to risk tearing them anymore than they already are.
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Wrap the bars just the same as any other set, however; be prepared to loosen and lift the brake body enough to slip the tape underneath the half hood. It is easy to do and don't forget to tighten up after...
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[QUOTE=randyjawa;17713577]Wrap the bars just the same as any other set, however; be prepared to loosen and lift the brake body enough to slip the tape underneath the half hood. It is easy to do and don't forget to tighten up after...
I have the full hoods. Do the brake lever bodies still feel solid with the tape mounted underneath them? Or do you feel them moving around when you actuate the brakes?
I have the full hoods. Do the brake lever bodies still feel solid with the tape mounted underneath them? Or do you feel them moving around when you actuate the brakes?
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i've taped bars with only the lever clamp in place (and not the lever):
the left lever actually came loose at the end of a ride once, but only because the clamp bolt wasn't tight enough.
the nice thing about these d.a. levers is you can tighten the clamp without removing the cable. that's some good engineering.
the left lever actually came loose at the end of a ride once, but only because the clamp bolt wasn't tight enough.
the nice thing about these d.a. levers is you can tighten the clamp without removing the cable. that's some good engineering.
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I wish I had seen the picture @randyjawa posted before I wrapped mine.
I tried to neatly add the short piece across the banding strap, cut to match the bottom of the body (similar to traditional hoods). I then wrapped the bars. So far it is holding up but I don't expect it to last very long. Sorry I don't have a better picture.
I tried to neatly add the short piece across the banding strap, cut to match the bottom of the body (similar to traditional hoods). I then wrapped the bars. So far it is holding up but I don't expect it to last very long. Sorry I don't have a better picture.
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#7
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I forget to do this about 50% of the time, but ideally, I position the levers and then put a piece of tape on the clamp to hold it to the bars. Then I remove the levers and wrap the bars. When done, re-install the levers and you are good to go.
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That's how I do it…every time. No negatives with having the bar covered with tape underneath the levers that I've found. Makes for a nice, clean look.
#9
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I used "Chuck's excellent wrapping tip" as seen on Ray Dobbins site. It worked out pretty well but you can see I missed a sliver on this side of the picture. I like that there's no tape or twine in the middle of the bar.
#10
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i've taped bars with only the lever clamp in place (and not the lever):
the left lever actually came loose at the end of a ride once, but only because the clamp bolt wasn't tight enough.
the nice thing about these d.a. levers is you can tighten the clamp without removing the cable. that's some good engineering.
the left lever actually came loose at the end of a ride once, but only because the clamp bolt wasn't tight enough.
the nice thing about these d.a. levers is you can tighten the clamp without removing the cable. that's some good engineering.
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Everyone else got it. First, ride the bike without tape and reposition the levers until you're happy with their placement (I take it you haven't ridden this bike for extended periods yet, thus the levers aren't likely positioned ever-so-perfect for you). Once you know where you want them (don't be afraid to take a day or two to dial in the position on a few rides or one long ride - carrying your wrench of course), tape the lever clamp into place so you don't lose lever location when you remove the lever body, remove the lever body, wrap top-down (or however you prefer) keeping close to the bolt/post on the clamp, place the lever body back onto the clamp/post, tighten (but not too tight, let the lever move in event of a crash rather than break), enjoy. If you want a couple pics to clarify I have a set of the same levers (I presume) on a set of bars waiting for the build to wrap-up (pun). I can snap some shots later tonight if you request, though you probably have enough to go on. I wrap all of my bars this way and do not notice any play in the system when installed. Riding on the hoods is rock-solid.
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Local landmark with a story. Google the phrase and you will find several accounts. We refer to this area as "Chicken Farmer Hill." You can easily hit 40++ MPH on the descent.
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It's good to see how well this works,
I''m going to try this method with leather sew ons, just leaving a hole cut out for the clamp bolt. Will post it here when it's done.
I''m going to try this method with leather sew ons, just leaving a hole cut out for the clamp bolt. Will post it here when it's done.
#17
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i've taped bars with only the lever clamp in place (and not the lever):
the left lever actually came loose at the end of a ride once, but only because the clamp bolt wasn't tight enough.
the nice thing about these d.a. levers is you can tighten the clamp without removing the cable. that's some good engineering.
the left lever actually came loose at the end of a ride once, but only because the clamp bolt wasn't tight enough.
the nice thing about these d.a. levers is you can tighten the clamp without removing the cable. that's some good engineering.
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Anyone done this variation and if so, please share technique.
Miroir du Cyclisme Sauvage Lejeune3 by L Travers, on Flickr
Miroir du Cyclisme Sauvage Lejeune3 by L Travers, on Flickr
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This is how we wrapped most bars with MAFAC levers at our shop BITD.
Here's the fancy way...
verktyg
Chas.
Here's the fancy way...
verktyg
Chas.
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Anyone done this variation and if so, please share technique.
Miroir du Cyclisme Sauvage Lejeune3 by L Travers, on Flickr
Miroir du Cyclisme Sauvage Lejeune3 by L Travers, on Flickr
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Anyone done this variation and if so, please share technique.
Miroir du Cyclisme Sauvage Lejeune3 by L Travers, on Flickr
Miroir du Cyclisme Sauvage Lejeune3 by L Travers, on Flickr
I like the way the pros/their mechanics did it back in the old days (pic above).
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...l#post17580962
If I recollect correctly what I read about e.g. Rudi Altig (4th link, within above link), allegedly his paramount concern about his bike was to always have clean tape on the handlebar.
Considering the use of cotton tape in the 60ies - getting filthy very easily and often used in white - you probably had to re-wrap the bars quite often.
So it was wrapped around the lever's bodies, thus clamps staying in place mounted directly onto the bar.
If you enlarge the pic of Tom Simpson (probably from 1963 - first link within "Show us...") you will see it was done quite clumsily sometimes. No particular craftmanship or need for careful wrapping because the tape didn't last for a long time with a professional rider, I presume.
Maybe there was or is a special technique, I, for my part, trial-and-error-wrapped just to have a clean look and comfortable grip on my Peugeots:
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I agree. With your brown tape method and with Chas' "fancy way." But using only cloth tape as in the pic of the pro above. Not too keen on the plastic tape addition. Looks kinda cheesy to me eye. But doing several wraps around the lever body requires more cloth rolls, for sure.
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I too have seen that "fancy" method on a lot of vintage bikes, absolutely. I find it difficult to execute on some bikes, for various reasons. On my Vitus, I went with cork tape so ended up using the modern "over and up and around" method, so in the end, one is left with a lot of padding there and no visibility of the metal lever underneath. One can find videos illustrating various common methods on YouTube. If you have full hoods, like I do here, these are your two best bets I'd think.
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Just a pro rider from the fifties: