I know powder coating goes on thicker than paint and want to avoid problems getting the new crown race to seat properly.

So I'll tell them to 'blast off the factory paint and mask it off so it doesn't get re-painted.

Is this good or did the factory paint add to a snug-fitting crown race?

Thanks.

No, usually the race area would be "faced" or scraped of all paint so the crown has just the correct interference fit. A powder-coater who has experience with bike frames will mask and/or plug all areas that should be kept clear of coating. A cheap and dirty job will require that you 'chase and face' everything the PCer will have fused with polyester (or epoxy) resin, adding to your cost and time.

Usually there was no paint where the crown is seated. Make sure bottom bracket, all braze on threads are protected along with the inside of the head tube where the headset cups are inserted and where the seat post is inserted. If they are used to bikes no problem.

The seat that the crown race sits on is never painted, so it should be masked for powder coating.

Thanks for the quick replies. This place does bikes and has plugs and proper knowledge on how to 'coat 'em. But I'm still gonna make sure everything will be plugged and masked when I drop it off.

The factory paint on this older steel MTB was on the steering column going just below the threads.

I took a photo of the fork crown. I've never removed a crown race before, but I noticed the fork crown is ribbed. Will the 'blasting damage this?

That ribbing is the result of the facing tool. It's for her pleasure.

My question with powder coating,

if the bike has fancy lug work,
will the powder coating fill the edges of the lug work,
making them less defined?

A good powdercoater won't need to be told what to mask off on a bike..they'll know what to do. They can mask very precisely, far better than for paint.

Not really. Powdercoating's not as thick as you'd think...a little thicker than paint, sure, but it's not like there's a quarter-inch of product on there. Even with a multilayer job, the "stack" isn't very thick at all.

...yes, it can, depending on how thickly it is applied. It is never as well defined as paint, which is one reason why you don't see it used a lot on the higher end restorations. Much preferable (usually more expensive) is one of the two part mixed auto paints like Imron, which is pretty tough, but goes on pretty thin as a paint.

Just dropped off the frame & fork. Guy I spoke to on the phone is the same coater. He showed me everywhere he'll plug and mask. I explained about the crown area and said he'll take care of it.

Blasting, powder coat and clear coat for $100. Should be ready in a few days.

This is the blue I went with:



Pretty much the exact color I had in mind.