Buying first (older) road bike - what to look for.
#51
Still learning
One of the members here is offering those Raleighs, but they would likely need an extensive overhaul and replacement of most consumables.
The Peugeot Course will need the same level of work as above. In fact, all the Peugeot's around your size currently on CL need an overhaul.
The Miyata shows a rusty chain, so it's likely an extensive cleaning and overhaul are needed.
I have a champagne colored Fuji Royale listed in your size, not cheap, but fully overhauled with new consumables, but for tires, which are in VG condition. Also, several other possibilities.
The Peugeot Course will need the same level of work as above. In fact, all the Peugeot's around your size currently on CL need an overhaul.
The Miyata shows a rusty chain, so it's likely an extensive cleaning and overhaul are needed.
I have a champagne colored Fuji Royale listed in your size, not cheap, but fully overhauled with new consumables, but for tires, which are in VG condition. Also, several other possibilities.
Last edited by oddjob2; 05-01-15 at 02:32 AM.
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I've owned a number of Fujis is and found them all to be well made and with very functional if not high end components. I've also been impressed with Univega, Nishiki, Bridgestone and Centurion offerings.
Of all the 80s Japanese bikes I've found and ridden, I've kept a Fuji touring bike which is just really comfortable to ride, and a Centurion Ironman which puts a smile on my face every time I get in the saddle.
I like to ride as little bigger tires (25 to 28), and don't race anyone but myself. I also realized that I prefer not to ride with down tube shifters so most of my vintage bikes have bar-end shifters on them now.
Good luck in your search and enjoy the new (to you) ride when you get it.
Of all the 80s Japanese bikes I've found and ridden, I've kept a Fuji touring bike which is just really comfortable to ride, and a Centurion Ironman which puts a smile on my face every time I get in the saddle.
I like to ride as little bigger tires (25 to 28), and don't race anyone but myself. I also realized that I prefer not to ride with down tube shifters so most of my vintage bikes have bar-end shifters on them now.
Good luck in your search and enjoy the new (to you) ride when you get it.
#53
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You might want to consider a Hybrid bike. I recently bought a 1996 GT Vantara from my local bike co op that has just about everything I want in a bike. At 30 lb it is the same weight as my 1980 Miyata 610 touring bike. Of great importance it has a 21 speed Shimano Ultegra drive train with index trigger shifters and fork mounted cantilever brakes. The index shifting means it is easy to always be in the optimum gear and you never have to take your hands off the bars. The Canti brakes are very powerful which is a big plus for hauling my 280 lbs to a stop . There are braze ons for 2 bottle cages, fenders, and racks and the 700 series wheels with sealed bearings can take size 32 street tires or size 42 knobbies.
My bike has rigid front and rear end and I prefer that to shocks. Best of all I got it from the co op for $50 in almost new condition plus they sold me new tires and tubes for Another $30 bringing my total spend to just over $80.
My bike has rigid front and rear end and I prefer that to shocks. Best of all I got it from the co op for $50 in almost new condition plus they sold me new tires and tubes for Another $30 bringing my total spend to just over $80.
#54
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I've been purposefully staying away from hybrids, not much I could get out of one that I couldn't just further convert the mountain into.
I am happy to say that I avoided buying the first bike I looked at. The Peugeot Course was beautiful, thankfully the Swiss bottom bracket kept me sane... I will say if Carbolite is the heavy stuff, though, I'm going to enjoy whatever I buy, that bike was far lighter than my mountain bike, even riding on steel wheels IDd by the magnet in my pocket
I am happy to say that I avoided buying the first bike I looked at. The Peugeot Course was beautiful, thankfully the Swiss bottom bracket kept me sane... I will say if Carbolite is the heavy stuff, though, I'm going to enjoy whatever I buy, that bike was far lighter than my mountain bike, even riding on steel wheels IDd by the magnet in my pocket
#56
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Hmm- I don't know where the Special fell in Bianchi's lineup, but I like what I see. Chromed dropouts, those shifters have a good reputation here. Beautiful bike. Maybe @Bianchigirll can lend a hand.
[h=2]BIANCHI SPECIAL Road Bike - $200 (st.clair shores)[/h]BIANCHI SPECIAL Road Bike
Up for sale is a beautiful Bianchi Special that was made in Japan. Very nice example of an Italian
Company that expanded production of their model line-up by having their bicycles built elsewhere.
This is a vintage bike made around 1981 as is still, a real attractive bike. Suntour derailleurs, Dia-
Compe brakes and SR crankset. Quality frame made with Ishiwata tubing and chrome plating on
both front fork and rear stays. Candy apple red paint really sets this bike off. Frame size is 21 inches.
Bike has new Sram cork tape, brake gum hoods along with new cables, and is ready to ride.
Thanks for looking.
[h=2]BIANCHI SPECIAL Road Bike - $200 (st.clair shores)[/h]BIANCHI SPECIAL Road Bike
Up for sale is a beautiful Bianchi Special that was made in Japan. Very nice example of an Italian
Company that expanded production of their model line-up by having their bicycles built elsewhere.
This is a vintage bike made around 1981 as is still, a real attractive bike. Suntour derailleurs, Dia-
Compe brakes and SR crankset. Quality frame made with Ishiwata tubing and chrome plating on
both front fork and rear stays. Candy apple red paint really sets this bike off. Frame size is 21 inches.
Bike has new Sram cork tape, brake gum hoods along with new cables, and is ready to ride.
Thanks for looking.
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Just got this yesterday for 60 bucks from original owner in Detroit area. Needs tires and lube thats it. Its not a Volare but then again I didnt spend 500 bucks.
Hardly has a scratch on it. I have a Brooks saddle for it and got new tires for 30 bucks the pair.
Hardly has a scratch on it. I have a Brooks saddle for it and got new tires for 30 bucks the pair.
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Clang - that Bianchi was actually on my radar, on the wrong side of town for me yesterday and today though. If its still around tomorrow I'm going to try to head out and take a look.
Howeee- was that the one listed with a matching twin and no info other than make offer?
Howeee- was that the one listed with a matching twin and no info other than make offer?
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Don't know if this is totally on topic but faced with similar option I ended up buying a new surly LHT instead and am really glad I am not having to address fix up issues now and instead get to just ride and enjoy.
#60
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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I don't know about specific models but for $200 that looks like a dang fine bike.
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#61
Still learning
The orange Le Tour is one size too large if you want a 53 +/-.
The Bianchi is a VG deal and good cosmetic condition. Having bought from that seller previously, all the four main bearing groups will need to be serviced.
The Bianchi is a VG deal and good cosmetic condition. Having bought from that seller previously, all the four main bearing groups will need to be serviced.
#63
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I'm partial to fatter tires, you could probably go 28's easily, maybe a bit more, but not much room for fenders. If you're a fair weather rider, that shouldn't matter.
As far as servicing the bearings, etc., it seems that jefnvk has some wrenching skills. Since his budget is $250-300, anything he couldn't handle the local LBS could.
jefnvk,
Git yer behind over to there, ride it, if it fits and you like it, buy it! Then come report back to us.
#64
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Oops, didn't realize it was that good of a deal. Just for the sake of argument, how do you think that Bianchi would line up against a 1985 Peugeot PH10LE that may or may not be in the back of my trunk right now...
#65
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Phew, the Bianchi sold quicker than I would have been able to get there anyways, I don't have to beat myself up on whether I made the right decision.
So, for $130, how did I do? Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, Ill try to break out the SLR later and get better shots. As I mentioned before, it is a 1985 PH10LE (year assumed by the paint job, which mirrors the 1985 catalog, model known by the little tag). I actually went up to a 57 over the 53ish range, so the bar is well up in my business, but when mounted I think fits my longer torso better than the smaller bikes.
It is definitely a used bike, but I could find no major fault with it. I would give the paint and finish a 7, there are some little nicks and a bit of surface rust, but no major corrosion. A soapy rag should clean the majority of it up very nicely. None of the bolts are stuck, and the couple spokes I gave a testing turned. Rims are alloy and 27 inch, and pretty well true. Consumables mostly need replacing, although the brakes and pads (Weinmann 500) stopped the bike as well as the bike I am riding now. Front derailleur worked buttery smooth, cable for the back is definitely worn out but still performed well enough to make me confident with some TLC I wouldn't have an issue. From what I understand, this bike is late enough that if I did have an issue, I could put newer components on it anyways. Both derailleurs are Sachs-Huret, rear is Rival, front has no other identifying marks. Chain is rusty past its expiration date, and I pumped the tires up to 55lbs (kept it low as there was no markings as to intended pressure), and got just shy out of a mile out of them before they were bulging enough to tell me to not do another lap around the apartment complex. Front tire has some dry rot, back tire looks almost new, although I will likely just buy a new matched set. Ill still rip the hubs apart and give it a good cleaning and lube job, if for no other reason than part of buying a vintage bike was my loving to work on mechanical things!
Bike rode smooth and straight on the ride, but IMHO those handlebars are going to be far more of a learning curve coming off a mountain bike than the downtube shifters, which surprisingly didn't even phase me.
I am pleased with myself, but feel free to rain on my parade if I made a major screw up! I take (and almost demand) constructive criticism very well.
Oh, did I mention the free puzzle that the guy threw in? A bike lock with a missing combination. That will entertain me during TV watching time for a few nights! Finally, the most important bits, the pearl white (absolutely beautiful in my eyes) matches my helmet, and that red and yellow matches the early 2000s Adecco-Lotto jersey I found cheap at the Salvation Army a few weeks ago
So, for $130, how did I do? Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, Ill try to break out the SLR later and get better shots. As I mentioned before, it is a 1985 PH10LE (year assumed by the paint job, which mirrors the 1985 catalog, model known by the little tag). I actually went up to a 57 over the 53ish range, so the bar is well up in my business, but when mounted I think fits my longer torso better than the smaller bikes.
It is definitely a used bike, but I could find no major fault with it. I would give the paint and finish a 7, there are some little nicks and a bit of surface rust, but no major corrosion. A soapy rag should clean the majority of it up very nicely. None of the bolts are stuck, and the couple spokes I gave a testing turned. Rims are alloy and 27 inch, and pretty well true. Consumables mostly need replacing, although the brakes and pads (Weinmann 500) stopped the bike as well as the bike I am riding now. Front derailleur worked buttery smooth, cable for the back is definitely worn out but still performed well enough to make me confident with some TLC I wouldn't have an issue. From what I understand, this bike is late enough that if I did have an issue, I could put newer components on it anyways. Both derailleurs are Sachs-Huret, rear is Rival, front has no other identifying marks. Chain is rusty past its expiration date, and I pumped the tires up to 55lbs (kept it low as there was no markings as to intended pressure), and got just shy out of a mile out of them before they were bulging enough to tell me to not do another lap around the apartment complex. Front tire has some dry rot, back tire looks almost new, although I will likely just buy a new matched set. Ill still rip the hubs apart and give it a good cleaning and lube job, if for no other reason than part of buying a vintage bike was my loving to work on mechanical things!
Bike rode smooth and straight on the ride, but IMHO those handlebars are going to be far more of a learning curve coming off a mountain bike than the downtube shifters, which surprisingly didn't even phase me.
I am pleased with myself, but feel free to rain on my parade if I made a major screw up! I take (and almost demand) constructive criticism very well.
Oh, did I mention the free puzzle that the guy threw in? A bike lock with a missing combination. That will entertain me during TV watching time for a few nights! Finally, the most important bits, the pearl white (absolutely beautiful in my eyes) matches my helmet, and that red and yellow matches the early 2000s Adecco-Lotto jersey I found cheap at the Salvation Army a few weeks ago
#66
Still learning
Paint looks pretty clean, stored in garage, so that's good. I think you got a FMV deal at $130. That bike was built with conventional parts and threading, so no disassembly mysteries. As little as they cost, put new bearings instead of cleaning the old ones. 18 1/4 for the rear hub, 22 1/4 for the bottom bracket. 20 3/16 for the front hub. Headset probably has a bearing retainer, otherwise you need about 50 5/32 loose bearings. Get a Jagwire cable kit and replace all the cables too.
See you at a Slow Roll!
See you at a Slow Roll!
#67
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Most definitely, it has been something I've been wanting to do since I've moved here!
As far as the new bearing, is there anything particular about bicycle bearings that I need to know, or can I just go to a local Grainger/Fastenal/Tractor Supply type place and pick up the correct size?
As far as the new bearing, is there anything particular about bicycle bearings that I need to know, or can I just go to a local Grainger/Fastenal/Tractor Supply type place and pick up the correct size?
#69
Still learning
Grade 300 bearings are ok, but grade 25 is harder and preferred. Not life changing in performance or money. You may even want to check the LBS, Cycletherapy in Waterford is well regarded. You can also just get a Sunlite bag of 144 for $5 at Amazon, along with the cable set, bar tape, tires, etc.
Last edited by oddjob2; 05-02-15 at 05:46 PM.
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Congratulations, that's an attractive bike and if it fits will be a fine first road bike. I still remember my amazement at how easy road bikes were to go fast over long distances, after trying to keep up with my roadie friends on my mountain bike.
#71
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Nice bike! I've always wanted a Peugeot with those red-to-white rainbow stripe decals. Keep us updated as you clean and refurbish it.
#72
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Good choice!
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#73
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OK, need a bit of help while I'm trying to load up my cart with new parts. What reasons would I choose a gumwall tire over a more modern choice, and vice versa? Any general suggestions on tires? Right now, I've narrowed it down to Continential Ultra Sports, Panaracer Paselas, and Vittoria Zaffiro II. I'm not going to lie, I'm not a fan of the gumwall color walls, unless they are white.
#74
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Color doesn't matter. In fact, there is an argument in favor blackwall tires: it is said to stand up to UV best. I happen to like tan sidewalls, but that's because of my age and sentimentality. I'm finally getting used to blackwalls.
I think all three tires you mention should serve you well. I'm glad you're not skimping on tires. They matter.
I think all three tires you mention should serve you well. I'm glad you're not skimping on tires. They matter.
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#75
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I an not a fan the the Conti Ultra Sport. Paselas seem to ride much nicer, roll more easily. just my opinion
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With great bikes comes great responsibility.
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