I just overhauled traditional cup and cone type bottom brackets on my two C&V bikes. One was a Suntour GPX and the other was unlabeled (at least that I could tell), but from the same era (late 80s, early 90s). This is a job I'd never tackled before, but it seemed fairly straightforward, and the final adjustment was simpler than I'd expected.

The one tricky part on both frames was getting the lock-ring off. I used a Park HCW-5. This fit in the lockring slots, but very loosely, and turning the ring without skinning knuckles against the frame was quite difficult. The tool kept slipping off of the lockring, and I came close to marring it a few times. There are two problems contributing to this: 1) the tool didn't fit either lock ring very tightly, and 2) the thickness of the tool was similar to (or thinner) than the lockrings themselves.

Is there a better tool for this job? Either a tighter fit, or a thicker tool, or a wrench that engages like a traditional socket head, would make this job much more straightforward.

I realize most people today would just replace the BB with a cartridge, but servicing these wasn't all that hard, and their condition didn't seem bad for 20 year old grease and bearings. I see no good reason to ditch these BB which are perfectly functional, in exchange for the latest trend, which is why I posted this question here rather than in the mechanics forum.

I have the same complaint about the HCW-5. I always just use the one-notch side because the three-notch never seems to fit correctly. And whether you replace the BB with a cartridge or not, you still have to get the old one out.

VAR lockring pliers.

VeloBase.com - View Single Tool

what i use:


works fine, still needs some caution i experienced.

and this is what i want to have:


both made by Hozan. i think Hozan tools are very fine.

For non-dedicated, you bet. A tool designed to fit a specific lock ring is better, IMHO, but not having that luxury, the VAR tool is great.

Check out the new VAR lock ring tool. Ugh
Bottom bracket lockring pliers BP-01600

Hammer and punch?

Also Hozan:
https://www.benscycle.com/p-2986-hoz...FQkuaQodpgoA8g

I do like the looks of that one.

I'll give a +1 for the Var tool. I have the old version, but it works great.

Park BBT-7 fits higher end lock-rings with 6 notches, never adjust your sugino/campy/dura-ace/xtr/syncros without one. . The HCW-5 is meant for crap old three notch rings.

There's also the DIY option:



DIY Lockring Pliers

totally. it'd also work nicely as a universal headset wrench + many more applications.
the only trouble is, of course, hefty price. haven't committed buying one yet, was debating how-many-lockrings-i-am-dealing-with-per-year-sort ratio... one day, one day.

Hozan tools are great. well-thought and sharply executed.
shame Park tools have really become just 'ok' tools. the only advantage seems being readily available, nothing much more...

never had issue with the hcw-5. i probably use the one-tooth side 90 percent of the time. but the other end comes in handy when loosening really tight lock rings.

I made the set john posted above, and for 6 dollars at harbor freight and 20 minutes with a file I have a tool that works better than store bought

Thanks all! That's a lot of options. I likely would have ended up with the BBT-7 if it were listed on the Park website. Doesn't seem to be there (even with a search), but definitely shows up in online stores. The Hozan looks fantastic, but probably a bit pricey for my usage frequency (which to date has been once every 20 years).

My Bianchi came with an aluminum 6-notch lockring, which I promptly damaged with my single-prong Sugino tool, which is a close relative of the Hozan shown above. Fortunately, my LBS had a 6-prong puller, so we removed the damaged ring with that. Also fortunately, I had saved the steel 3-prong lockring from my first Bianchi, which is what I now use. Big lesson: when you scrap any bicycle or major component, save the small bits and fittings, because you never know when they will come in handy in the future. I saved an Agrati pedal dustcap from my first Capo after the frame finally broke, only to find that my third Capo was missing one.

I haven't yet found a BB that my Sugino BB tool would handle. Of course I don't think I've ever worked with an aluminum lockring. For loosening it at first a dead-weight rubber-coated mallet can be useful.

I was just going to suggest that! The other nice thing with an adjustable "plier" type tool is that you can squeeze down hard and actually adjust the cup if the threads have been chased. When I worked in a shop I could often squeeze and adjust then loosen my grip and lock down with one hand using this method.

I love this forum. Just browsing, didn't think this thread would be necessary, and - low and behold - it's revelatory! DIY here I come!

The Park HCW-5 sucks !

Getting frustrated and cutting this ring off with a chisel and a hammer was not my finest moment..

I got one lockring off with it, but next time i'm getting something mentioned in here!

The Campy tool works well for the Record stuff and has the added benefit of linking you spiritually with an elderly Italian man in a leather apron with a cigarette dangling from his mouth and a straw covered bottle of Chianti standing nearby.

Otherwise I use the hammer and punch to loosen it up.

I like my Campagnolo tools. They're beautiful and extremely well made. And a joy to use. Except the BB lock ring tool, IMO. Always have trouble keeping it aligned so it doesn't slip off the edge. I use it though, carefully.

I would think the trouble with using a punch is it contacts only the out point of the notch, producing rounded corners like those in Soody's pic. Once you've damaged them this way a real BB tool will no longer grip. Once they are damaged you have no choice but to further the damage.

Back in my shop days I used a wide variety of lock ring tools...except for the pliers type. Never really like those.

My go to tool was the Hozan and another with a 'swing/pivoted' but I cant remember the name of that one. In my opinion the Park tool are not designed properly, they're too thinwhich decreaces surface area with the ring and they're too tall which causes them to rock of the ring.

The big key to the Hozan/Park style tool is to grind a flat where the arms meets the ring.

1. Hook the tool onto a lock ring as if you were going to remove it.
2. Mark the tool with Sharpie where the body of the tool makes contact with the lock ring.
3. Grind a perpendicular flat where you made the mark.