Country Specific frame attributes :-)
#1
Thread Starter
Old bikes, Older guy


Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 308
From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
Country Specific frame attributes :-)
Hi folks,
I’ve been researching vintage European bikes for a future project. There seems to be a wide variety of opinions on the attributes of each country’s bikes. Examples: English bikes handle the best, French bikes have the best ride, Italian bikes offer the best overall performance (Well, they are Italian, aren’t they), etc. Supposedly, early continental bikes are poorly finished. Then there are the Dutch and Belgium bikes.
I’m considering building a retro path racer and would like to use an old English built lugged frame. Because some of these and all Italian made frames tend to command high prices, I’d consider other English treaded frames. I’m not a fan of the weird treading on French and older Raleighs and neither is my parts collection.
I’d like suggestions and inputs from other forum members on a cost effective approach to this project. This is just going to be a personal, around town ride, I don't want to go nuts on the cost.
Thanks and regards,
Van
I’ve been researching vintage European bikes for a future project. There seems to be a wide variety of opinions on the attributes of each country’s bikes. Examples: English bikes handle the best, French bikes have the best ride, Italian bikes offer the best overall performance (Well, they are Italian, aren’t they), etc. Supposedly, early continental bikes are poorly finished. Then there are the Dutch and Belgium bikes.
I’m considering building a retro path racer and would like to use an old English built lugged frame. Because some of these and all Italian made frames tend to command high prices, I’d consider other English treaded frames. I’m not a fan of the weird treading on French and older Raleighs and neither is my parts collection.
I’d like suggestions and inputs from other forum members on a cost effective approach to this project. This is just going to be a personal, around town ride, I don't want to go nuts on the cost.
Thanks and regards,
Van
__________________
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
#5
Fat Guy on a Little Bike


Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 15,946
Likes: 371
From: Philadelphia, PA
Bikes: Two wheeled ones
The country of origin doesn't matter, and many of those tendencies are era specific. Find a bike that you like for whatever reason. Not all french bikes ride the same, not all italian...etc.
Best bang for your buck is often Japanese...or small name stuff that others aren't aware of. You can build up a great gravel bike with an 80s all arounder if that's what you mean.
Best bang for your buck is often Japanese...or small name stuff that others aren't aware of. You can build up a great gravel bike with an 80s all arounder if that's what you mean.
Last edited by KonAaron Snake; 06-01-15 at 06:00 PM.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 605
Likes: 11
From: Denver, CO
Bikes: 1966 Carlton, 197X MKM, 1983 Trek 620, 1988 Schwinn High Sierra, 1995 DBR Axis Ti, 1999 Waterford, 2016 DBR Release, 2017 Surly Travelers Check
Beware though -- some Super Courses have 26 tpi bottom brackets or headsets. Which do and don't is hard to pin down. Usually cotterless versions have 24tpi. Sheldon, unfortunately, was wrong on this one.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 801
Likes: 3
From: S Oregon
Bikes: Berthoud Randoneusse, Curt Goodrich steel road, Zanconato Minimax road, Jeff Lyon steel all road,
I'm currently working on the French version, based on a frame by perhaps the last French constructeur, Gilles Berthoud! I want to build a sort of all rounder that I can take randonneuring. I will base it on the French style.
Its an interesting way to tackle a bike build for sure. I should get my base to start soon, then parts acquisition will be fun.
I am not as concerned with new old stock. I don't mind some patina that offers character, so if you don't mind that, you can save cash on the second hand market. things get crazy for "NOS" items.
I look forward to seeing how your build progresses. take plenty of photos.
Its an interesting way to tackle a bike build for sure. I should get my base to start soon, then parts acquisition will be fun.
I am not as concerned with new old stock. I don't mind some patina that offers character, so if you don't mind that, you can save cash on the second hand market. things get crazy for "NOS" items.
I look forward to seeing how your build progresses. take plenty of photos.
#8
Señor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,485
Likes: 1,565
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Sorry for the smart-aleck answer earlier. It was a rather abrupt way of conveying essentially what Aaron did more politely.
I tend to appreciate the vision and creativity of others, but to my thinking, if you're going to attempt a British-inspired build, start with a British frame. There are plenty of British makers who made frames with the angles that were typically used as path racers. From Raleigh, to Mercian, to Ellis Briggs, Viking, Jack Taylor, etc. etc. I believe that Sheldon's web site and the ClassicRendezvous web site have good primers on the topic. If you can strike up a conversation with Hilary Stone, or Norris Lockley, or John Crump, you can pick their brains for a wealth of information "straight from the horse's mouth" so to speak. There are also plenty of others who know quite a bit, and will no doubt be helpful in sharing.
If budget, or lack of opportunity (or patience) makes the "authentic frame" option unachievable, it is always possible to match performance and functionality once you know what to look for. There might be some model of Fuji, or Centurion or Schwinn that could prove acceptable (conjecture here).
At any rate, you have a guaranteed support group here who can at least appreciate your efforts, if not assist you directly in moving them forward.
I tend to appreciate the vision and creativity of others, but to my thinking, if you're going to attempt a British-inspired build, start with a British frame. There are plenty of British makers who made frames with the angles that were typically used as path racers. From Raleigh, to Mercian, to Ellis Briggs, Viking, Jack Taylor, etc. etc. I believe that Sheldon's web site and the ClassicRendezvous web site have good primers on the topic. If you can strike up a conversation with Hilary Stone, or Norris Lockley, or John Crump, you can pick their brains for a wealth of information "straight from the horse's mouth" so to speak. There are also plenty of others who know quite a bit, and will no doubt be helpful in sharing.
If budget, or lack of opportunity (or patience) makes the "authentic frame" option unachievable, it is always possible to match performance and functionality once you know what to look for. There might be some model of Fuji, or Centurion or Schwinn that could prove acceptable (conjecture here).
At any rate, you have a guaranteed support group here who can at least appreciate your efforts, if not assist you directly in moving them forward.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#9
vintage motor


Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 349
From: Tepic, Nayarit, Mexico
Bikes: 48 Automoto, 49 Stallard, 50 Rotrax, 62 Jack Taylor, 67 Atala, 68 Lejeune, 72-74-75 Motobecanes, 73 RIH, 71 Zieleman, 74 Raleigh, 78 Windsor, 83 Messina (Villata), 84 Brazzo (Losa), 85 Davidson, 90 Diamondback, 92 Kestrel
Over on the Classic Rendezvous website Norris Lockley just posted a really interesting comparison of British and French builders during the postwar period. His posts are always long and rambling and awesome. Since he himself was a frame-builder at that time he speaks with some authority.
What is your budget? You can find very nice older British frames for good prices if you're patient. As with everything, there are a few Big Names that always command high prices, and everything else itends to be much more reasonable. It doesn't hurt to put out a word, lots of people have things stashed away and don't really think about selling them until someone asks. In general, old (pre-1960) frames and parts from anywhere are more rare and expensive than more recent gear.
What is your budget? You can find very nice older British frames for good prices if you're patient. As with everything, there are a few Big Names that always command high prices, and everything else itends to be much more reasonable. It doesn't hurt to put out a word, lots of people have things stashed away and don't really think about selling them until someone asks. In general, old (pre-1960) frames and parts from anywhere are more rare and expensive than more recent gear.
#10
If you have very specific goals, you can jump on E-Bay and find the Colnago frame of your dreams.
However, if you are doing this on a budget, then a lot is just seeing what pops up. Craigslist/Thrift Stores/etc.
I'm seeing the limited selection of old Raleigh bottom brackets. However, if you are building a retro styled bike, you could use regular cotter cranks which would open up quite a few possibilities.
However, if you are doing this on a budget, then a lot is just seeing what pops up. Craigslist/Thrift Stores/etc.
I'm seeing the limited selection of old Raleigh bottom brackets. However, if you are building a retro styled bike, you could use regular cotter cranks which would open up quite a few possibilities.
#11
Thread Starter
Old bikes, Older guy


Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 308
From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
Hi folks,
Thanks for all of the feedback and quick responses.
Here’s my plan/goal. I had some vintage parts I’ve collected over the years that I would like to put to good use. These include; a 70s Stronglight track crankset, a set Universal 68 brakes, a Brooks saddle, mustache style handlebars, plus an assortment of levers, quill stems, pedals, etc. All of these parts are English threads/ sizing. Also, someplace I have a set of high flange Normandy hubs that came off an old Schwinn. As I recall, I’d rebuilt them and they were in good condition.
What I’d like to do is use these parts is build an old style single speed in the English path racer style. I’m more interested in the style than the historical accuracy since this is just going to be a personal ride. Wanting an English built frame is just an ancestry thing, so I’m not locked into it. I would prefer good quality tubing. It doesn’t anything fancy or double butted, however, I’d like to avoid the cheap, heavy stuff. A rear OLD of 126 would allow me gearing options such as an IGH. As I age the hills tend to get steeper and taller. RE: Budget, I’d like to keep the cost of the frame, including refinishing, under $200.
USA Zorro – A bit of off beat humor is always appreciated as are your comments and suggestions
KonAaron Snake – I guess I was just so hung up on European frames, that I didn’t consider the Japanese. Thanks for the input.
CliffordK – I’d hate to bastardize any Colnago with this build. As you probably know, Oregon, particularly, Eugene and Portland are hot beads for vintage bikes.
Thanks to all. Your inputs are greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Van Pennington
Thanks for all of the feedback and quick responses.
Here’s my plan/goal. I had some vintage parts I’ve collected over the years that I would like to put to good use. These include; a 70s Stronglight track crankset, a set Universal 68 brakes, a Brooks saddle, mustache style handlebars, plus an assortment of levers, quill stems, pedals, etc. All of these parts are English threads/ sizing. Also, someplace I have a set of high flange Normandy hubs that came off an old Schwinn. As I recall, I’d rebuilt them and they were in good condition.
What I’d like to do is use these parts is build an old style single speed in the English path racer style. I’m more interested in the style than the historical accuracy since this is just going to be a personal ride. Wanting an English built frame is just an ancestry thing, so I’m not locked into it. I would prefer good quality tubing. It doesn’t anything fancy or double butted, however, I’d like to avoid the cheap, heavy stuff. A rear OLD of 126 would allow me gearing options such as an IGH. As I age the hills tend to get steeper and taller. RE: Budget, I’d like to keep the cost of the frame, including refinishing, under $200.
USA Zorro – A bit of off beat humor is always appreciated as are your comments and suggestions
KonAaron Snake – I guess I was just so hung up on European frames, that I didn’t consider the Japanese. Thanks for the input.
CliffordK – I’d hate to bastardize any Colnago with this build. As you probably know, Oregon, particularly, Eugene and Portland are hot beads for vintage bikes.
Thanks to all. Your inputs are greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Van Pennington
__________________
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
#13
Thread Starter
Old bikes, Older guy


Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 308
From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
It's standard 12 pt Arial from MS Word. I usually create my work in Word and then copy and paste.
__________________
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
#14
There are plenty of old English 3 speeds that would be good donors for your project. Just keep an eye on thrift stores and Craigslist.
Forence? Hmmm... Perhaps I could let you know if I find something interesting around here. Actually... I just picked up an old Mercier bike... that needs a bit of Mercy. I think it is supposed to be 531 tubing. Long horizontal dropouts (Simplex) without a derailleur hanger.
The advantage of the old 3 speeds, though, is that you naturally get the rearward facing dropouts.
Forence? Hmmm... Perhaps I could let you know if I find something interesting around here. Actually... I just picked up an old Mercier bike... that needs a bit of Mercy. I think it is supposed to be 531 tubing. Long horizontal dropouts (Simplex) without a derailleur hanger.
The advantage of the old 3 speeds, though, is that you naturally get the rearward facing dropouts.
#15
Señor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,485
Likes: 1,565
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
If you give us an idea of the size you're looking for, at minimum, you'll have several additional sets of eyes on the lookout. If you're lucky, someone may have candidate frame that's just sitting around.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#16
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
Likes: 597
From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
We get this question, "what should I look for?" a lot, and while I understand (and sympathize) with the intention behind it, I think it's the wrong question. I mean, okay... let's just say a Claud Butler Olympic Sprint frame is exactly what you're looking for. But if you limit yourself to that specific model, you will make it almost impossible to find one. I think you should just look at what's available, and remember your standards: it has to be your size, no funky threading, no lead pipe, whatever. And you'll do fine. Especially if you don't care exactly what it is. You might find a frame on ebay that's been repainted and its identity lost, which invariably reduces interest and therefore reduces the price. But if it suits your needs, there you go.
I found one like that a few years ago... just what I wanted, but no one knew what it was. Came pretty cheap. Took me a couple yeas to figure it out: it was a Claud Butler Olympic Sprint.
I found one like that a few years ago... just what I wanted, but no one knew what it was. Came pretty cheap. Took me a couple yeas to figure it out: it was a Claud Butler Olympic Sprint.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
#17
Thread Starter
Old bikes, Older guy


Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 308
From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
Hi CK,
I'm going to proceed slowly with this project until after my September vacation. Dear wife says, I need to watch my pennies. In rethinking this, I'm beginning to like the idea of one of the old Raleigh 3-speeds. Although one wouldn't be as light or as efficient as I'd planned, they are oh so cool. I especially like the ones with the funky forks which have the horizontal tube for the crown and the long rake. I think some of the later models were called "Limited".
If I find a good quality Limited, I'll start with it and if I find it doesn't meet my needs, I'll restore as best as possible. Of course, the biggest problem would be using a modern bottom.
Hopefully, I'll find a suitable, but slightly more current frame so I don't bastardize a classic. B-T-W, I'm looking for a frame with a ctc seat tube size of 53cm (21in) to 56cm (22in)
Thanks and regards,
Van Pennington
vancy@att.net
I'm going to proceed slowly with this project until after my September vacation. Dear wife says, I need to watch my pennies. In rethinking this, I'm beginning to like the idea of one of the old Raleigh 3-speeds. Although one wouldn't be as light or as efficient as I'd planned, they are oh so cool. I especially like the ones with the funky forks which have the horizontal tube for the crown and the long rake. I think some of the later models were called "Limited".
If I find a good quality Limited, I'll start with it and if I find it doesn't meet my needs, I'll restore as best as possible. Of course, the biggest problem would be using a modern bottom.
Hopefully, I'll find a suitable, but slightly more current frame so I don't bastardize a classic. B-T-W, I'm looking for a frame with a ctc seat tube size of 53cm (21in) to 56cm (22in)
Thanks and regards,
Van Pennington
vancy@att.net
__________________
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
#18
Thread Starter
Old bikes, Older guy


Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 308
From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
Hi Zorro,
A I stated, somewhat wordily, I'm looking for a decent quality lugged steel frame with English threads. I need a c-t-c seat tube size between 53cm (21in) and 56cm (22in). I'd like to keep the cost of the frame, including refinishing and shipping costs, in the neighborhood of $200. There are shops in my area that do a good powder for about $80. Of course the better quality of the finish, the more I'm willing to pay. I'm in no hurry since, I've just started planning this project.
Thanks and regards,
Van Pennington
A I stated, somewhat wordily, I'm looking for a decent quality lugged steel frame with English threads. I need a c-t-c seat tube size between 53cm (21in) and 56cm (22in). I'd like to keep the cost of the frame, including refinishing and shipping costs, in the neighborhood of $200. There are shops in my area that do a good powder for about $80. Of course the better quality of the finish, the more I'm willing to pay. I'm in no hurry since, I've just started planning this project.
Thanks and regards,
Van Pennington
__________________
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
#19
Señor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,485
Likes: 1,565
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Hi Zorro,
A I stated, somewhat wordily, I'm looking for a decent quality lugged steel frame with English threads. I need a c-t-c seat tube size between 53cm (21in) and 56cm (22in). I'd like to keep the cost of the frame, including refinishing and shipping costs, in the neighborhood of $200. There are shops in my area that do a good powder for about $80. Of course the better quality of the finish, the more I'm willing to pay. I'm in no hurry since, I've just started planning this project.
Thanks and regards,
Van Pennington
A I stated, somewhat wordily, I'm looking for a decent quality lugged steel frame with English threads. I need a c-t-c seat tube size between 53cm (21in) and 56cm (22in). I'd like to keep the cost of the frame, including refinishing and shipping costs, in the neighborhood of $200. There are shops in my area that do a good powder for about $80. Of course the better quality of the finish, the more I'm willing to pay. I'm in no hurry since, I've just started planning this project.
Thanks and regards,
Van Pennington
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#20
Thread Starter
Old bikes, Older guy


Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 308
From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
[QUOTE=rhm;17867804] But if you limit yourself to that specific model, you will make it almost impossible to find one. I think you should just look at what's available, and remember your standards: it has to be your size, no funky threading, no lead pipe, whatever. And you'll do fine. Especially if you don't care exactly what it is. You might find a frame on ebay that's been repainted and its identity lost, which invariably reduces interest and therefore reduces the price. But if it suits your needs, there you go.
QUOTE]
rhm,
Thanks for the very applicable feedback. You were lucky to find your dream bike. I've kept my window wide open. Sometimes, my "wants" overshadow my budget, but I'm trying to be reasonable in this case. There's a lot of good stuff out there and with a bit patience, I'll be successful.
Thanx,
Van
QUOTE]
rhm,
Thanks for the very applicable feedback. You were lucky to find your dream bike. I've kept my window wide open. Sometimes, my "wants" overshadow my budget, but I'm trying to be reasonable in this case. There's a lot of good stuff out there and with a bit patience, I'll be successful.
Thanx,
Van
__________________
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BattleRabbit
Classic & Vintage
60
05-18-11 03:47 AM









