Grinding Away Part Of A Stem?
#26
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From: Portland OR
Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997
You guys are no fun :-(
This guy looks funner :-)
This guy looks funner :-)
#28
It is my amateur understanding that the reason modern bike frames use fat tubes is that the strength of any rod/tube is greatest at the outside edge. i.e. a tube with 1 mm thick walls is potentially stronger than a narrower diameter tube with 2 mm walls... and stronger than a very small diameter (say 10 mm) solid rod.
Therefore, my assumption is that the area you want to remove material from is the worst possible area as far as maintaining strength and rigidity.
With the amount of saddle to bar drop you are seeking, I am guessing you are not an easy riding person, so you could be placing significant stress on the stem. Make your decision accordingly.
Now for the smart alec remark that just came to mind...
If you can't get your back flat enough with that setup, have you considered bending your elbows?
Therefore, my assumption is that the area you want to remove material from is the worst possible area as far as maintaining strength and rigidity.
With the amount of saddle to bar drop you are seeking, I am guessing you are not an easy riding person, so you could be placing significant stress on the stem. Make your decision accordingly.
Now for the smart alec remark that just came to mind...
If you can't get your back flat enough with that setup, have you considered bending your elbows?
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Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
#29
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
#30
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Just realized, duh! Option #3 - have a custom stem made. Cr-mo. Length and angle exactly what you want. Gloss black paint to match your bike. Could probably do titanium also. I have 3 custom stems, 2 black cr-mo quills, 155 -22 degree and 175 -27 and a threadless ti 120 -17. That last one was not needed; it replaced a completely functional Ritchie. I just like it better and chose to spend my Geo. Bush $$ gift on it. But those first two solved issues much like yours, rather nicely. I was functioning more on length but a little down angle both looked sexy and allowed me to have a low bar and not have the stem slammed. (I like settings that I can vary in either direction.)
I am sure lots of framebuilders could make you a nice one. Bruce Gordon could make you a gorgeous one! I had TriCycles make mine. (In fact, those stems were the first things I went to them for. Since then, 2 frames and 2 seatposts. They work with a first class painter so the end result looks sharp.)
Ben
I am sure lots of framebuilders could make you a nice one. Bruce Gordon could make you a gorgeous one! I had TriCycles make mine. (In fact, those stems were the first things I went to them for. Since then, 2 frames and 2 seatposts. They work with a first class painter so the end result looks sharp.)
Ben
#31
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,191
Likes: 5,326
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
It is my amateur understanding that the reason modern bike frames use fat tubes is that the strength of any rod/tube is greatest at the outside edge. i.e. a tube with 1 mm thick walls is potentially stronger than a narrower diameter tube with 2 mm walls... and stronger than a very small diameter (say 10 mm) solid rod.
Therefore, my assumption is that the area you want to remove material from is the worst possible area as far as maintaining strength and rigidity.
With the amount of saddle to bar drop you are seeking, I am guessing you are not an easy riding person, so you could be placing significant stress on the stem. Make your decision accordingly.
Now for the smart alec remark that just came to mind...
If you can't get your back flat enough with that setup, have you considered bending your elbows?
Therefore, my assumption is that the area you want to remove material from is the worst possible area as far as maintaining strength and rigidity.
With the amount of saddle to bar drop you are seeking, I am guessing you are not an easy riding person, so you could be placing significant stress on the stem. Make your decision accordingly.
Now for the smart alec remark that just came to mind...
If you can't get your back flat enough with that setup, have you considered bending your elbows?

Bikes should fit us. We shouldn't have to fit the bike.
Ben
#33
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Fairplay Co
Bikes: Current 79 Nishiki Custum Sport, Jeunet 620, notable previous bikes P.K. Ripper loop tail, Kawahara Laser Lite, Paramount Track full chrome, Raliegh Internatioanl, Motobecan Super Mirage. 59 Crown royak 3 speed
Another option would be to get a quill to threadless stem adapter then you would have a fairly easy time finding a stem that would give you the bar position you want.
#34
+1
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Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#36
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Berkeley, CA
Bikes: 72 Cilo Pacer, 72 Gitane GT, 72 Peugeot PX10, 73 Speedwell Ti,l, 75 Peugeot PR-10L, 80 Colnago Super, 81 Zinn, 85 ALAN Cross, 85 De Rosa Pro, 86 Look 753, 86 Look KG86, 89 Parkpre Team, 90 Parkpre Team MTB, 90 Merlin
This abundance of flexibility puts most of us to shame. It's like a first-world problem. I agree that chancing a stem failure is not worth the risk, even if it's slight. (At least wait until your kids are out of college!
)
As suggested above, a better solution would be a track stem, shorter stack height headset (minimal gain), deeper drop bars. Or you could always stop stretching and start lifting with your back until the excess flexibility issue goes away.

(Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/289060...7632853427840/)
)As suggested above, a better solution would be a track stem, shorter stack height headset (minimal gain), deeper drop bars. Or you could always stop stretching and start lifting with your back until the excess flexibility issue goes away.

(Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/289060...7632853427840/)
#39
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,643
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From: Portland OR
Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997
I'm not riding anything with saddle to bar drop on any nekkid ride . . .
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