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Grinding Away Part Of A Stem?

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Grinding Away Part Of A Stem?

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Old 06-11-15 | 10:57 AM
  #26  
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You guys are no fun :-(

This guy looks funner :-)

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Old 06-11-15 | 11:02 AM
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Old 06-11-15 | 11:19 AM
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It is my amateur understanding that the reason modern bike frames use fat tubes is that the strength of any rod/tube is greatest at the outside edge. i.e. a tube with 1 mm thick walls is potentially stronger than a narrower diameter tube with 2 mm walls... and stronger than a very small diameter (say 10 mm) solid rod.

Therefore, my assumption is that the area you want to remove material from is the worst possible area as far as maintaining strength and rigidity.

With the amount of saddle to bar drop you are seeking, I am guessing you are not an easy riding person, so you could be placing significant stress on the stem. Make your decision accordingly.


Now for the smart alec remark that just came to mind...

If you can't get your back flat enough with that setup, have you considered bending your elbows?
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Old 06-11-15 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jyl
might remove 1/8" of material.
Count on failure.

Don't cautiously "consider it may" fail.

Count on it.
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Old 06-11-15 | 11:25 AM
  #30  
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Just realized, duh! Option #3 - have a custom stem made. Cr-mo. Length and angle exactly what you want. Gloss black paint to match your bike. Could probably do titanium also. I have 3 custom stems, 2 black cr-mo quills, 155 -22 degree and 175 -27 and a threadless ti 120 -17. That last one was not needed; it replaced a completely functional Ritchie. I just like it better and chose to spend my Geo. Bush $$ gift on it. But those first two solved issues much like yours, rather nicely. I was functioning more on length but a little down angle both looked sexy and allowed me to have a low bar and not have the stem slammed. (I like settings that I can vary in either direction.)

I am sure lots of framebuilders could make you a nice one. Bruce Gordon could make you a gorgeous one! I had TriCycles make mine. (In fact, those stems were the first things I went to them for. Since then, 2 frames and 2 seatposts. They work with a first class painter so the end result looks sharp.)

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Old 06-11-15 | 11:31 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Little Darwin
It is my amateur understanding that the reason modern bike frames use fat tubes is that the strength of any rod/tube is greatest at the outside edge. i.e. a tube with 1 mm thick walls is potentially stronger than a narrower diameter tube with 2 mm walls... and stronger than a very small diameter (say 10 mm) solid rod.

Therefore, my assumption is that the area you want to remove material from is the worst possible area as far as maintaining strength and rigidity.

With the amount of saddle to bar drop you are seeking, I am guessing you are not an easy riding person, so you could be placing significant stress on the stem. Make your decision accordingly.


Now for the smart alec remark that just came to mind...

If you can't get your back flat enough with that setup, have you considered bending your elbows?
I used to bend my elbows in my racing days. OK as a 25 yo. One of my last races was 113 miles. First 60 was going north into a very strong and gusty NW wind. I never straightened my arms for 3 hours. That was torture I wouldn't wish on anyone. Part of my journey into very long stems was to allow me to ride as an older man with my back where I can still ride and my arms straight enough to not be that torture.

Bikes should fit us. We shouldn't have to fit the bike.

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Old 06-11-15 | 11:49 AM
  #32  
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Just take an big rock and knock your front teeth out. Its faster and that way, you will still have a ****ional stem to use during your rehab.
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Old 06-11-15 | 11:50 AM
  #33  
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Another option would be to get a quill to threadless stem adapter then you would have a fairly easy time finding a stem that would give you the bar position you want.
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Old 06-11-15 | 11:52 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by zukahn1
Another option would be to get a quill to threadless stem adapter then you would have a fairly easy time finding a stem that would give you the bar position you want.
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Old 06-11-15 | 11:55 AM
  #35  
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Want really 'slammed' the old time trial builds used the fork crown as a place to fit handlebars onto .

PDX has abundant custom frame-builders to hire to make stuff.
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Old 06-11-15 | 12:12 PM
  #36  
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This abundance of flexibility puts most of us to shame. It's like a first-world problem. I agree that chancing a stem failure is not worth the risk, even if it's slight. (At least wait until your kids are out of college! )

As suggested above, a better solution would be a track stem, shorter stack height headset (minimal gain), deeper drop bars. Or you could always stop stretching and start lifting with your back until the excess flexibility issue goes away.



(Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/289060...7632853427840/)
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Old 06-11-15 | 12:35 PM
  #37  
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What would you gain, 5mm? Not worth the risk IMO.
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Old 06-11-15 | 02:54 PM
  #38  
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[MENTION=63590]jyl[/MENTION] are you riding this on the World Naked Bike Ride?!
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Old 06-11-15 | 03:34 PM
  #39  
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I'm not riding anything with saddle to bar drop on any nekkid ride . . .
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