I'm Rattled!
#1
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From: Pasadena, Ca
Bikes: 1972 Gitane Super Corsa Frankenbike, 1972 Motobecane Le Champion, Motobecane Grand Jubile, 1980 Bianchi Campione di Italia, 1984 Paramount, Trek 620, Trek 720, Cannondale 3.0, Kestrel 200sci, Kestrel 200EMS, Bob Jackson Tandem
I'm Rattled!
I have done a couple of rattle can paint jobs and have been very pleased with the aesthetic results. That said, I'm not happy with the durability. Seems it doesn't take much to chip the finish. I've been using Dupli-Color spray paint finishing up with multiple clear coats.
I'm about to start on another restoration and have run across Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray High Gloss Clear. Anyone out there have any experience with it and can comment on the results, especially with regard to its long term durability?
I'm about to start on another restoration and have run across Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray High Gloss Clear. Anyone out there have any experience with it and can comment on the results, especially with regard to its long term durability?
Last edited by Tbone5; 06-26-15 at 06:30 PM. Reason: spelling error
#3
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Known to not be too durable.
It can also be other things, some paint notes a recoat or overcoat time window. Important.
Also, most primer needs to be sanded before color to provide a tooth for the paint to adhere to.
Some primer sealers do not require it, read the label.
The Eastwood product reads interesting. Personally, I like the control of a true spray g-u-n.
At that point the level of investment goes up.
#4
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From: Dallas, Texas
Bikes: 2022 Trek Domane SLR 7, 2017 Ridley Fenix SL Disc, 1982 Bianchi Super Leggera
I've used the Eastwood clear on a set of engine aluminum valve covers and it has held up really well after 2 years. It's not really in a spot likely to be impacted by stones but it seems pretty tuff. The other Eastwood products I've used have always been of the highest quality.
#5
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My old chrome fork is bent, so i'm going to use a spare tange 5 fork while I find another nice chrome one (better clearance too). Any advice for painting it? I was thinking pink crown, and yellow blades.
My method was going to be- sand fork down, clean with wax and grease remover, paint on rust converter around the tiny bits of rust on the lugs, wait for it to dry, and then... 3 primer, 4 base and 3 clear coats as recommended?
I'm going to do it hanging in my garage against a sheet with the door closed to paint, open to dry. On a sunny day. Sweep the basement for dust well before. Any advice?
I've got british paints quick drying enamel with pictures of bicycles on it, light grey rust guard primer and an automotive acrylic gloss clearcoat.
Sorry to hijack this thread
#8
I'm a Classic Man.
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From: Central Valley California
Bikes: Anything with a full record group.
I always use a good detergent prior to paint. It really helps the paint stick. What is good? Dutch cleanser and bar keepers friend both work well. Also you have to give the frame some cure time. I would wait at least 10 days before assembly, and stick it in the hot sun to allow the paint to "bake" if possible.
#9
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My son is actually quite a talented rattlecan painter and he will only use Rustoleum. A rather good you-tube I came across said the same thing. Avoid Krylon and Duplicolor like the plague for durable finishes on metal. At least that is the advice I've heard.
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#10
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2k urethane clear coat is what you need over paint to preserve it.
From the rattle can I think it's s bit thick, from a spray gun you can dilute it thinner.
From the rattle can I think it's s bit thick, from a spray gun you can dilute it thinner.
#11
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From: Fleetwood, PA, USA
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Rustoleum is what works for me.
Base layer is always the rust reforming primer.
+ sanding
+ 2nd primer layer
+ sanding and surface clean-up.
Next comes two to four thin coats of the base color, sanded down if necessary, with increasing grit sandpaper.
Final is the acrylic clearcoat, in three to four coatings, wet-sanded with 2000-grit and eventually polishing compound.
Turtle Wax paste goes on last.
Base layer is always the rust reforming primer.
+ sanding
+ 2nd primer layer
+ sanding and surface clean-up.
Next comes two to four thin coats of the base color, sanded down if necessary, with increasing grit sandpaper.
Final is the acrylic clearcoat, in three to four coatings, wet-sanded with 2000-grit and eventually polishing compound.
Turtle Wax paste goes on last.
#12
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Some auto paint supply houses will make you up a custom spray can too, from the automotive color paint lines like Chromabase. That paint though wants to be top coated within 24 hours, so you can paint a bike primer to clear in one day.
I do agree, Krylon is not the ticket, they do make a line for metal that is a bit different though, seldom seen.






