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Old 07-09-15 | 01:05 PM
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Old 07-09-15 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Unfortunately, my mechanic seems to be spending all of his time these days riding rather than wrenching.
So... what you really need is a psychologist for your mechanic?

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Old 07-09-15 | 01:10 PM
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You might be able to have the best of both worlds. Can you position the FD so the chain rubs and the crankarm hits it?
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Old 07-09-15 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Unfortunately, my mechanic seems to be spending all of his time these days riding rather than wrenching.

Sounds like a smart mechanic .
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Old 07-09-15 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmuller
Consider the time duration of each of the rubbing events. The crank arm thickness is maybe equivalent to two chain links. The ring was, what, a 52T? The constant rubbing would be in effect for 26 times longer. Both would be at approximately the same radius to the spindle. So unless the derailleur-strike event applied 26 times more ******ing force, the rubbing would definitely produce more drag.
Jim, good to see you finally putting that advanced degree to work.

Originally Posted by USAZorro
You might be able to have the best of both worlds. Can you position the FD so the chain rubs and the crankarm hits it?
That's brilliant!
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Old 07-09-15 | 02:00 PM
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Energy loss due to friction, rubbing and grinding on a bike is not a tolerable question......regarding the fairer sex? There are special forums for that

But seriously, no one believes you'd ride more than a few hundred feet with a rub or a click, just impossible.
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Old 07-09-15 | 02:02 PM
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It might depend on how hard you ride. If you ride hard, the chain rubbing against the derailleur could cause a greater loss of energy than the banging of the crank against the derailleur. The friction from the chain rubbing is likely to increase as your effort increases. On the other hand, the crank bangs the derailleur when you're applying more power to the opposite crank, so the crank banging the derailleur is probably not banging it hard. And that force decreases as your pedaling effort increases.

So if you're tooling around, let the chain rub. If you're mashing hard, let the crank bang.
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Old 07-09-15 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
crank bang.
Can he say that?
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Old 07-09-15 | 02:48 PM
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Let's see...

71 plus six

times 99

divided by 2 or 3

Added on to 360.



32.
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Old 07-09-15 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Velognome
But seriously, no one believes you'd ride more than a few hundred feet with a rub or a click, just impossible.
You know, you're right. I hate extraneous noises. But for some reason, I didn't notice this one on a previous ride--or maybe I forgot, that's a problem when you have too many bikes. And my question is really about what I should do at the moment once discovering the problem. I wasn't going to go to the nearest house and ask if they have any Pre-CPSC Campagnolo front derailleurs. I was going to keep riding, having to make such a difficult choice.

Originally Posted by noglider
It might depend on how hard you ride. If you ride hard, the chain rubbing against the derailleur could cause a greater loss of energy than the banging of the crank against the derailleur. The friction from the chain rubbing is likely to increase as your effort increases. On the other hand, the crank bangs the derailleur when you're applying more power to the opposite crank, so the crank banging the derailleur is probably not banging it hard. And that force decreases as your pedaling effort increases.

So if you're tooling around, let the chain rub. If you're mashing hard, let the crank bang.
Um, yeah, twss.

Originally Posted by The Golden Boy
32.
I think we have a winner.
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Old 07-09-15 | 03:29 PM
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...has anyone yet considered the weight savings gained in comparing the two different mechanical interference mechanisms as a function of time ?
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Old 07-09-15 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
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...has anyone yet considered the weight savings gained in comparing the two different mechanical interference mechanisms as a function of time ?
Good point! The wearing away of material due to rub/contact needs to be factored in!
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Old 07-09-15 | 03:52 PM
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For that matter, isn't the terrain around Boston rather flat? Could probably go with a single ring up front and remove the FD entirely.
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Old 07-09-15 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rhm
I assume your derailleur has the safety lip on the front of the cage? I'd switch it out to one with a flat outer plate.
+1 this. I see this problem often with vintage Stronglight and TA cranks.
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Old 07-09-15 | 04:26 PM
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Okay, I'm convinced this FD is a POC. Anyone want to trade me a lip-less Campy NR or SR for this post-CPSC SR model? (and, yes, I'm serious--straight trade.)
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Old 07-09-15 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Okay, I'm convinced this FD is a POC. Anyone want to trade me a lip-less Campy NR or SR for this post-CPSC SR model? (and, yes, I'm serious--straight trade.)
Surely you are joking, Mr. Feynman?

Great book, sorry I loaned it out.

Anyone knows a Record front derailleur has less friction than a Super Record as there are no holes to catch the chain pins on from classic 3/32" derailleur chains.
Why do you think Campagnolo went from 4 cage holes to 3? Surely not for aesthetics.
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Old 07-09-15 | 04:32 PM
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The constant rub will reduce material, achieving a lower mass, at the same time, the rider exerting additional force to overcome said fricture will convert mass to energy at a higher rate........maybe it's good they rub?
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Old 07-09-15 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by southpawboston
For Neal to pose a mechanical inquiry indicates a serious problem given his Mad Mechanix Skilz.

I don't think the resistance caused by either rub scenario is significant enough to worry about. I would be more concerned about the annoying rubbing noise and eventual wear on the cage (or crank arm).

As Rudi suggested, an FD with flatter cage will solve the problem (and there are plenty of flat-cage FDs out there to choose from), but so might using a slightly longer BB spindle.

You could also file away that lip on the front of the cage, but then it might start rusting.
It could also be that the derailleur is not rotated right. The outer plate of the derailleur needs to be parallel with the outer surface of the big ring.Sight the derailleur cage against the chainring, and see if the derailleur is not parallel. If it isn't, make it right and you'll maximize the clearance between the chainring and the crank arm.
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Old 07-09-15 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
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...has anyone yet considered the weight savings gained in comparing the two different mechanical interference mechanisms as a function of time ?
That's kinda what I was thinking. What I would do, if I were paid commensurately that is, is conduct a controlled experiment with both configurations, with careful weighing of the affected parts before and after. The parts with the greatest loss of mass will be on the configuration with the most net drag.

Last edited by old's'cool; 07-09-15 at 08:16 PM. Reason: ed
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Old 07-09-15 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by old's'cool
What I would do, if I were paid commensurately that is, is conducted a controlled experiment with both configurations, with careful weighing of the affected parts before and after. The parts with the greatest loss of mass will be on the configuration with the most net drag.
Ah, that's why you engineers want to study everything over time--you're paid by the hour!
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Old 07-09-15 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Okay, I'm convinced this FD is a POC. Anyone want to trade me a lip-less Campy NR or SR for this post-CPSC SR model? (and, yes, I'm serious--straight trade.)
There's nothing wrong with your SR front derailleur; it's just not designed to work with pre-CPSC cranks. As I have a number of vintage cranks that need the pre-CSPC version, I'm reluctant part with any usable front derailleurs. Other front derailleurs that will work include Zeus Criterium, 1st edition Dura-Ace, SunTour Compe, SL, or 1st edition Cyclone, and Simplex Super LJ, among others.
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Old 07-09-15 | 07:53 PM
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I think the answer is to drink more and listen less.
That's what I do when encountering physics.
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Old 07-09-15 | 07:56 PM
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This is clearly the result of the Greek banking crisis. Since you can only take 60 euro's at a time from the atm, you will have to wait a couple of days to gather the funds to buy a new FD.
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Old 07-09-15 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
There's nothing wrong with your SR front derailleur; it's just not designed to work with pre-CPSC cranks. As I have a number of vintage cranks that need the pre-CSPC version, I'm reluctant part with any usable front derailleurs. Other front derailleurs that will work include Zeus Criterium, 1st edition Dura-Ace, SunTour Compe, SL, or 1st edition Cyclone, and Simplex Super LJ, among others.
Thanks for the advice, John. I currently have five different bikes in the fleet with Stronglight or TA cranks; four of them have FDs from among the group you mentioned. For this fifth one, I thought I might sneak in something with more bling, but I've been denied. But I do have more options in the bin, none Campy pre-CPSC.

Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
I think the answer is to drink more and listen less.
That's what I do when encountering physics.
Good thinking, sir!

Originally Posted by fender1
This is clearly the result of the Greek banking crisis. Since you can only take 60 euro's at a time from the atm, you will have to wait a couple of days to gather the funds to buy a new FD.
That's why I'm trying to barter. Eff those banks!!
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Old 07-09-15 | 08:04 PM
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I think I have something for you, Neal, but it will be some days before I can check, and I will have forgotten by then, so: good luck with that!
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