I have '69 Dawes Diploma. I just finished tearing down and rebuilding the sturmey archer hub and then ripped into the headset without paying any attention to the order of things. The fork cone is in place and the cups are in the head tube. I have the washer, threaded race and locknut leftover as well as 2 more cups (photo attached with bearings in it and another that shows its clone from the other side). I have no idea how to put this back together and I've screwed around with it long enough that I no longer remember how it came apart. HELP!!!

That shouldn't be too hard to figure out but first let's make sure we're talking the same language and same bits. The bearing races are in the head tube. Okay. The first item that goes on the fork is called the crown race (because it sits against the fork crown). It is usually press-fit on and normally can't be removed easily without the proper persuasion tools. Let's assume you left that in place. I see bearings stuck on the crown race. Are they caged? I'd guess not from the pics. Let's assume grease is holding them there. If so then you should be able to insert the steerer tube into the head tube until the bearings seat against the lower head tube race. Once you get them there, keep the weight of the frame on them so the fork and frame don't separate. Otherwise the bearings could scatter.

BTW, the normal procedure is you turn the frame over, fill the lower head tube race with grease, insert the bearings, then put the fork in from above. You hold them together while you turn the frame back over to work on the top, keeping the fork and frame pressed together.

After all that, it looks like you have too many pieces. The normal procedure is next you put grease into the upper head tube race, put all the bearings in, screw down the cone onto the steerer, put the keyed lockwasher on the steerer tube, then screw down the final locking nut. Your headset may have races which still have to inserted into the parts in the head tube. Or else you picked up some from another bike. Or that headset is different from any I've seen.

I am trying to remember the type headset you have as it is the same one I have on my early Dawes Galaxy. Failing miserably to remember... 3 initials TCW...CTW ?

I am off to look. Main thing is the cups have removable races both bottom and top with little bearings. Accounts for the seemingly extra pieces.

Probably "TDC" (Thomas D Cross):

That's it, thanks John !

Thanks so much for this info. I've looked at it with a magnifying glass (I'm old) and it does say T.D.C. on some of the parts. I don't see my particular version in John Thompson's post. The bearings are small for a headset - how do the extra races fit into the assembly order?

Long time ago, as I try to remember, the extra cups rest inside the ones you have mounted to the head tube already. They seem to free float inside then remain true when proper tension is adjusted with the top cap, locking and top nut.

I truly hope someone else can chime in and help out. I do not want to mess cause grief to him or the Dawes. I had to put mine together too. It was in pieces when I received it so long ago. But it works fine, very smooth.

Best of luck...

I'll gladly give it a try and see how it works. So these extra cups are acting like liners for the headtube cups. Would you grease the headtube cups as well as the bearing contact surfaces?

Most of the grease went to keep the tiny friggin ball bearings in place while all the other surfaces just got a light coating.

as an aside, the chrome on this headset has held up very well ! A simple wiping, cleaning brought out the shine.

Thanks for the help. It all makes much more sense now.

Pieces in order as above, assuming headset races “4” and “5”are the same size shouldn’t matter whether they are placed in the top or bottom of the headtube. Sometimes the bottom race is a bit larger (meaning thicker), test fit “4” and “5”. If you were to fill the bearing races completely with bearings in this case it looks like 1/8” you would remove about three to have a smooth working headset. Turn the frame upside down like a previous poster suggested and place the race with some grease on the bearing surface and then place the appropriate amount of bearings and then place some grease on the fork crown race surface. Slide the fork down into the headtube gently into place, at this point you can turn the fork back and forth ever so slightly to see if it turns smoothly. If everything is to your satisfaction at this point find a bungee cord, drape it through the center of the forks and wrap it up and around the toptube and attach it to itself to prevent the fork from falling out when you turn the frame right side up in the next step. Once you have the frame right side up slide your top race over the forktube and into place in the headtube, grease, fill with the appropriate amount of bearings. Grease the bearing surface of number “3” and screw it into place, once it is screwed down enough to keep everything in place you can make a quick initial adjustment by removing the bungee and rotating the fork and tightening or loosening number “3” . The fork should turn freely, but it should not rock in the headset. Keyed spacer next then the locknut…done. Once you have you have a wheel, handlebar and brakes on the bike you can make your final adjustment, and I use the term final loosely, by holding the front brake on and rocking the bike forward and backward to see if there is any play, adjust accordingly.

Thanks for this. I think my '73 Raleigh Gran Sport has a Prima.

Yes, this is what OP has.

I believe you can assemble the whole thing right side up. I assume the two removable races ("4" and "5") are the same dimensions and are interchangeable. Confirm this before proceeding; if correct, apply grease and the same number of balls to each. Place one of them on the fork, mating with the crown race; then place the other race, with balls, in the upper head lug of the frame; insert the fork, screw the threaded race ("3") on, followed by the toothed washer ("2") and top nut ("1).