The million dollar question. The catalog states it to be magenta, but that's like saying Blue.
I actually found what I thought was a perfect match to it however once I applied it it came out a lighter pinkish. It was close enough for government work though so I left it. I still have the bottle maybe a touch of blue would help it. Most importantly it's nail polish and is ok for frame touch up but probably not suitable for complete cage coverage.
As for the crankset (BTW I had the same problem) I've seen where forum members have use computer generated clear stickers that passed.
It should be stated my touch up techniques are not on the level of RT, Docs, or JD's. But more like jetboys.😁

'70 Dodge Panther Pink (code M3) has to be pretty close to the magenta.
Edit: Looks like it was called Moulin Rouge by Plymouth.
It was once available in Testors (model car) spray cans (part no. 28124) or Testors touch up bottles (part no. 2757).
This site also shows some possible sources for similar colors.

Perfect timing my wife is going to Hobby Lobby this afternoon for one of her projects. We live 50 miles from the nearest store of that kind so we have to have a reason to go.

89 Ironman Expert pedals
 

Everything I've read states this model comes with Sampson pedals but mine and several others I've seen photos of
have Shimano 600 pedals.The rest of my bike is completely stock so I'm wondering if you think these pedals were added
after the fact or did Centurion use some left over pedals?

Can you post a pic please?

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec04517644.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d5764eea35.jpg

Those pedals were Never issued on the '89 Expert.
Can you post a pic of your Ironman bike please?

So you don't think they could have used leftover pedals from the 1988 Master Ironman which used these pedals?

If you are referring to Sampson pedals, I know of no situation where they were offered with the bike, but stranger things have occurred.
The 1987 Master did come OEM with 600EX pedals. The shop gave my friend $25 credit for them when he bought Looks instead.

I have no idea if Centurion actually shipped any other models with pedals, but the volume of Suntour GPX pedals on the market is about the same as the volume of GPX stuff that came on the Ironman in 1989.

Looks great. What is the crankset?

172.5 cranks
 

I recently saved the scan sheet to my computer for my nearly stock 85 IM that I bought a few years ago. Specs say 170/175 cranks. Mine say 6207 in 172.5 with the Centurion measured frame size of 58cm. I need to go through bearings before I ride it much, but it has been on the back burner as I have been rehabbing a sport tourer and a tourer.

Interesting about the frame size too. Researching and measuring puts that “58” more into the actual 56cm ctc that is best for me. I need to retire to have more project time.

I posted this also in Ironman paint jobs thread; if that's a no-no I'm sorry and I'll drop one.


Sizing question help on the Ironman cousin: 1992 Diamond Back Master TG

I've found one I can actually afford but seller's measurements are confusing me as to the frame size. I haven't been able to find the exact geometry on these through research, although most reference 88-89 Lemans as possible matches (the "Centurion Lemans" was still sold in Australia in 90-92 and from interwebs pics seems to be tig-welded without lugs so that's a kind of confirmation of sorts).

What 'size' do you think this thing is with the following numbers?

Center to top of tube: 61cm
Center to center: 59 cm
Center to top of post/scallop: 63 cm

I think this has oversize tubing which may be throwing off my comparison to Ironman / Lemans frames. I currently have a very beat 58cm '86 Elite RS which I just barely fit on as I work on flexibility and stretching out (and I would sell on to keep the DB as it's in better running shape and I don't have time/work space right now for a project). Is this going to be about the same or a whole size bigger?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...133127d1e4.jpg

On a diamond frame with horizontal top tube the easiest way to guesstimate frame size is the headtube space between top tube and downtube. That frame looks like it's for someone around 6'2"-6'4" with proportionately long legs.

That stem is really long too, even for a time trial/tri-bike. Even if I could get comfortable on the aero bars the bike is too tall to be aerodynamic. And downtube shifters are tricky with aero bars. You'd need to get out of the aero bars for every shift, interrupting the flow. Some folks might try shifting with one hand while still in the aero bar position, but the balance will be so twitchy it's extremely risky. That's why most TT/tri-bikes later hand shifters on the ends of the aero bars, and now most are electronic pushbuttons.

It's not clear from your description of your existing 58cm bike whether it's too large, too small, or you just need to work on overall conditioning to get comfortable with a road bike. I know it took me almost three years to get comfortable on a road bike again, but I was coming from a long layoff accompanied by serious injuries from a car wreck (broken back and neck). For while only an upright comfort hybrid was tolerable.

If your 58cm bike is a little too large, this Diamondback Master TG is way too big. I'm 5'11" with 33" inseam and have bikes ranging from 56-58cm. To make the 58cm bike comfortable (it's an old school rigid mountain bike) I switched from flat to albatross swept bars to shorten the reach.

My drop bar road bike are around 56-57cm and comfortable -- assuming I do my part with physical therapy and strengthening a few times a week, and stretches every day. But even then I put a shorter stem on one and a compact drop bar on the other.

Thanks for weighing in! I'm in a similar condition, with some computer slump from 4 years of my first desk job ever and a bad back injury just before it. The 58cm Ironman frame is the right top tube length for my physiology (I've had both a Retul and an independent fitting) but it's a stretch right now since I've been otherwise occupied / lazy for the past 6 months.

I could manage a taller standover if it meant a good bike that fit well but I agree that the DB is setup poorly which is what was really contributing to my brain's difficulty in estimating size. That combined with the camera angle even made pic measuring come out all wrong. The seller hasn't ridden it much at all because it's too big for him as well, even though I tried to suggest that the stem and seat should be lowered.

I guess this is another pass. It's on CL in SE Pennsylvania if it will fit anyone else.

Great thread restored and reopened.

What makes these bikes so special that they warrant their own thread?

:popcorn:popcorn

LOL no seriously, I don't mean to be snarky or anything, but I can't tell. But I'm new to bikes too.

TWO dedicated threads (if not more)!!
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...aint-jobs.html

Simply put, they are well built frames with classic, simple paint jobs (albeit somewhat bright on a few models) and quality, bombproof components that have held up well for over 30 years.
Because they were sold at reasonable prices at that time, they were fairly popular in parts of the country where the distribution/marketing system was strong.
They are by no means the only brands of the mid-late 80's that could be described by the above.
They also appealed to a segment of the riding population that tended to take reasonable care of their purchases, so there are lots of them in good shape out there.
Additionally, they had a strong tri-athlete following among people who were trying the sport but didn't want to get in too deep financially, so many of them were used a few times and then put into storage as the new owners discovered that participating in a tri was difficult and exhausting.
Finally, there are a handful of owners on this forum who push their merits aggressively, myself included.

Those are just some of the reasons I like old Honda cars and motorcycles. Too bad they didn't make any bicycles :/

Italian geometry, Japanese technology, and American Iconism (Dave Scott). What's not to like?

85 IM Freewheels
 

I’ve posted previously about my 85 Ironman. I bought this several years ago, and searching info was what directed me to BF and C&V. Sadly, I’ve not ridden my Ironman much. I have other bikes now more suitable to my physical condition and age, but I told myself I was going to make some changes and ride this classic machine more.

First change was a 39T sprocket and then a 13-25 Sunrace 7 speed freewheel a year or two ago. Nice shifting, but I needed a bit more help. I have read that a 28 would shift with the 600rd. I got a 14-28 Sunrace 7 speed at the local co-op for cheap and it shifted the 28 fine, but the 14 on the low end interfered with the seat stay. A 13-28 would probably work.

While the bike was in the stand I dug through what stash I had looking in vain for a 14-28 Shimano 6 speed. I did find 13-28 and 14-30 Suntour alpha 7 speeds that I had. The 14-30 was in great shape, so I thought to give it a try. It was much narrower than the Sunrace. I read that this 600 rd was fine for 28T, but 30? Yep, it handled the 30 just fine on the stand, even with the 52T biopace big ring. Friction shifting on the 85 of course, and not as smooth as the hyperglide profile of the Sunrace, but the 30T with the 39 front sounds nice to me after winter leaves these parts.

Thought others might be interested in the 30T and shimano 600.

Robbie,

I own the red Ironman and was wondering if there was a way to update to turn it into an Ironman bike. It has all the original parts and components. I do not know anything about bikes but I do know that I'd love to use this bike to complete my second Ironman. My dad gifted me this bike that was his 10th wedding anniversary gift.